14 hours ago, james.wilson said:

Give it 240 and wire the relay to the bell output. Or Give Texecom a call

Both products are under Texecom now

Ah ok swb I got confused with what James said , thanks

Surely there is a relay in the master blaster, well when toy power it with 12v you can hear the relay click. So surely all I need is a connection on the panel that supplies 12v under alarm conditions?

12 minutes ago, Oli_me said:

Surely there is a relay in the master blaster, well when toy power it with 12v you can hear the relay click. So surely all I need is a connection on the panel that supplies 12v under alarm conditions?

Any programmable output it would seem that switches from positive to negative , and other leg of relay to positive 

28 minutes ago, Oli_me said:

Surely there is a relay in the master blaster, well when toy power it with 12v you can hear the relay click. So surely all I need is a connection on the panel that supplies 12v under alarm conditions?

 

As I say in my post in depends which model blaster you have.

Also relays do take a current and you have to consider if protected for back EMF.

Hi all, I spoke to Texecom support earlier today, they were really helpful  told me to wire the negative into the Bell terminal, and the positive into 12V + 

they said the relay in the master blaster doesn't draw much and will be fine. Happy days  and yup tested it...... ouch it's loud 

I hope you have set your bell time appropriately for your neighbours...

7 hours ago, Oli_me said:

Hi all, I spoke to Texecom support earlier today, they were really helpful  told me to wire the negative into the Bell terminal, and the positive into 12V + 

they said the relay in the master blaster doesn't draw much and will be fine. Happy days  and yup tested it...... ouch it's loud 

I would fit back emf protection by way of a varistor or diode at the MB terminals if it were me, if not then there’s a strong chance of blowing your panel aux supply.

9 hours ago, Oli_me said:

Hi all, I spoke to Texecom support earlier today, they were really helpful  told me to wire the negative into the Bell terminal, and the positive into 12V + 

they said the relay in the master blaster doesn't draw much and will be fine. Happy days  and yup tested it...... ouch it's loud 

 

Did they cover all the things I mentioned in my post? I said initially its not as simple as sticking wires in terminals.

 

Does the Blaster have Back EMF protection? Possible but if you don't check you could blow the panel or output.

I wouldn't use a bell terminal for this unless there was no other option due to my points above, however:-

Did they ask what was in the bell terminals already and calculate the current? Again could blow the panel or bell trig if not checked.

Did you adjust the bell time so not to burn the master out? Blasters have a duty cycle and will burn out if overrun.

Was it explained about noise pollution regulations and if the sound is deemed excessive the LA can force entry to the property to kill it?

7 minutes ago, sixwheeledbeast said:

 

Did they cover all the things I mentioned in my post? I said initially its not as simple as sticking wires in terminals.

 

Does the Blaster have Back EMF protection? Possible but if you don't check you could blow the panel or output.

I wouldn't use a bell terminal for this unless there was no other option due to my points above, however:-

Did they ask what was in the bell terminals already and calculate the current? Again could blow the panel or bell trig if not checked.

Did you adjust the bell time so not to burn the master out? Blasters have a duty cycle and will burn out if overrun.

Was it explained about noise pollution regulations and if the sound is deemed excessive the LA can force entry to the property to kill it?

QFA

you're right on every point, bit slack if techs answer is banging on bell trig, with no mention of other issues.

the number of blown contacts/outputs I’ve come across in the past have been feeding mag/strike locks to a simple handy relay in a panel.

 

 

1 hour ago, sjsturner said:

 bit slack if techs answer is banging on bell trig, with no mention of other issues.

 

I see it from both ways.

Would you prefer Texecom to be on the phone to DIYers explaining how to do this properly, while your engineers or yourself are on a job, on hold for hours?

The technical guys have come to the conclusion it's a DIYer and banging it on the bell trig is the simple way to "get it working" with no programming. Therefore clearing the lines for more technical questions, a priority at the moment.

If it works for a while without failing then job done, difference is we are mostly professionals giving advise here using our experience, you cant teach how to do our job on a forum.