livespark Posted April 4, 2014 Share Posted April 4, 2014 Hello everyone my names mark, I'm not a security installer but a jib electrical technician, iv been working as an electrician for about 14 years now. i was wondering if i could ask for some advice with an alarm install I'm currently doing at home? I'm much more used to small 8 zone panels honeywell G4 etc. but because its my house and i want to be able to write my own zone labels, have more zones and the option of wireless add ons at a later date id decided to put in a new honeywell flex 20 panel and use part of the existing wiring system. I'm installing a honeywell galaxy flex 20 with: 2 mk8 keypads (wired in series with 6core) 2 AG6 Bell boxes (wired in series with 6core) 2 Door contacts (individually wired with 4core) 10 Activ8 PIRs (individually wired with 6core) My main questions are: are all these items compatible? Can i wire 2x Ag6 bell boxes in series from a flex 20? and would anyone have a wiring diagram for this? (asking a lot I know!) Hopefuly you guys will be able to help because I want to get it all up and running before I go away and leave my wife home alone lol, even tho we now live in the lovely countryside of north wales she still thinks she's in the middle of Leeds. ThanksMark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james.wilson Posted April 4, 2014 Share Posted April 4, 2014 You will need some expanders plus the flex is an eol panel. re your ag6 yes just feed the ho- of the second bell from the tamper return of the first Quote securitywarehouse Security Supplies from Security Warehouse Trade Members please contact us for your TSI vetted trade discount. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
livespark Posted April 4, 2014 Author Share Posted April 4, 2014 You will need some expanders plus the flex is an eol panel. re your ag6 yes just feed the ho- of the second bell from the tamper return of the first Thanks for that James, Iv actually just ordered the panel & keypads from yourselves, what expanders would I need? I thought the flex20 had 12 onboard wired zones? Is there anything else iv probably not thought of? thanks again Mark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datadiffusion Posted April 4, 2014 Share Posted April 4, 2014 (edited) Thanks for that James, Iv actually just ordered the panel & keypads from yourselves Mark. Screech of brakes on unbridled criticism..... (joke) OK Mark all sounds reasonable, you'll need an expander as James said, its a shame you didn't ask before you bought as although SW are a great place to buy I would personally have bought from their extensive range of PIRs with EOL built in, such as Siemens, ditto for the contacts unless they are already EOL type, i.e. Knight or Elmdene with built in 1k/1k resistors. I'm not that familiar with the flex but be careful with the bells re: current draw; what I've done in the past is had one bell on SAB mode and the other on SCB, assuming the AG6 supports this; if it does it will be very clear on the instructions. Hope this helps! Edited April 4, 2014 by datadiffusion Quote So, I've decided to take my work back underground.... to stop it falling into the wrong hands Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
livespark Posted April 4, 2014 Author Share Posted April 4, 2014 Thanks for the input datadiffusion, Someones going to have to spell it out to be tho I'm afraid The house already has 8 honeywell active8 PIRs and 2 AG6 bell boxes which are less than a year old, thats why I'm trying to stick with the same kit. (the original alarm control panel was damaged by a bathroom flood according to the old owner and removed but not replaced, which i found very odd when the kits only a year old? Anyway... the Activ8 PIRs have contacts for an EOL what size resistors would I need to install & need to be in the door contacts? I don't think AG6 bells have the option to select SCB from memory thats why I was wondering about the flex's output. What expander would I need? a inbuilt honeywell RIO? (part number?) Sorry for the 20 questions but remember I'm just a thick electrician who's never installed this panel before. ThanksMark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sixwheeledbeast Posted April 4, 2014 Share Posted April 4, 2014 Two live boxes could have been too much current and blown something. Most panels need additional PSU's or SCB mode for multiple sounders. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datadiffusion Posted April 4, 2014 Share Posted April 4, 2014 (edited) Thanks for the input datadiffusion, Someones going to have to spell it out to be tho I'm afraid The house already has 8 honeywell active8 PIRs and 2 AG6 bell boxes which are less than a year old, thats why I'm trying to stick with the same kit. (the original alarm control panel was damaged by a bathroom flood according to the old owner and removed but not replaced, which i found very odd when the kits only a year old? Anyway... the Activ8 PIRs have contacts for an EOL what size resistors would I need to install & need to be in the door contacts? I don't think AG6 bells have the option to select SCB from memory thats why I was wondering about the flex's output. What expander would I need? a inbuilt honeywell RIO? (part number?) Sorry for the 20 questions but remember I'm just a thick electrician who's never installed this panel before. Thanks Mark Hi Mark, You'll be fine. Ok, I understand why you've gone for the Activ8's fair enough. Any device with alarm and tamper loops can be converted to EOL, as I understand it the panel should come with 16 1K resistors. like this except I have NO idea why they've soldered it, just use the terminals! I know nothing about the flex so someone else will be along shortly to explain which expander(s) you need. You can do the same for the contact as above BUT I recommend you spend an extra £6 and buy an EOL contact with them built in, trust me doing it with resistors (unless you have the kind of contact with proper terminals rather than screw heads) is asking for trouble later! Going back to the bell you'll need to add up the current consumption of all the PIRS (will be in the manuals) and the two bells in standby. Then add the current for both of them sounding, compare it with available panel current (so a 1A panel will NOT have 1A available) etc... Have a look at the very recent thread started by zerozero (skip to the last couple of posts) for a better explanation! EDIT - as above but I don't know the panel, but suspect it will be too much as standard... Edited April 4, 2014 by datadiffusion Quote So, I've decided to take my work back underground.... to stop it falling into the wrong hands Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matthew.brough Posted April 4, 2014 Share Posted April 4, 2014 Expanders, lol That will be a rio then . . . Quote www.securitywarehouse.co.uk/catalog/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
livespark Posted April 4, 2014 Author Share Posted April 4, 2014 Expanders, lol That will be a rio then . . . Will the RIO fit inside the flex 20 though? Is it just 1 RIO I need? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
livespark Posted April 4, 2014 Author Share Posted April 4, 2014 Hi Mark, You'll be fine. Ok, I understand why you've gone for the Activ8's fair enough. Any device with alarm and tamper loops can be converted to EOL, as I understand it the panel should come with 16 1K resistors. like this except I have NO idea why they've soldered it, just use the terminals! I know nothing about the flex so someone else will be along shortly to explain which expander(s) you need. You can do the same for the contact as above BUT I recommend you spend an extra £6 and buy an EOL contact with them built in, trust me doing it with resistors (unless you have the kind of contact with proper terminals rather than screw heads) is asking for trouble later! Going back to the bell you'll need to add up the current consumption of all the PIRS (will be in the manuals) and the two bells in standby. Then add the current for both of them sounding, compare it with available panel current (so a 1A panel will NOT have 1A available) etc... Have a look at the very recent thread started by zerozero (skip to the last couple of posts) for a better explanation! EDIT - as above but I don't know the panel, but suspect it will be too much as standard... Thanks for the help its much appreciated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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