sixwheeledbeast

A quick dab on the battery yer. Wired up permanently no

Possibly blown something then. Speakers aren't designed to pass DC and AUX output isn't designed to take a short. Check AUX voltages with meter and find another loudspeaker of the same impedance to test the output.

A "loudspeaker" should be wired into loudspeaker terminals and have a resistance of between 8-32ohms if tested on it's leads only depending on the speaker and panel.

Do you have anything wired in speaker terminals? If there is a built in speaker meter the resistance on it's leads to see if its ok, do the same if you have fitted one separately.

If I Remember Correctly

But why did the circuits not operate? Is the expander powered from the same PSU?

Most closed loop security and fire equipment is wired NC with open on loss of power.

Something is wired wrong? PSU should ideally signal a fault to the controls too.

Optex detection, CQR for surface, Best results from Elmdene for shutters at G3.

Then think they'll still operate if they stick them on with sticky pads...

It depends on the kit and the controls. If the controls are sending a signal to the panel to start a RST then you with need to wire this to an output on the controls. Many sensors have a switch for Local Test which will open the alarm or masked output if they fail. Would be easier if we knew what kit you are using tho, gather than a generic answer.

Same only had issues when they had been disturbed and the trembler had been refitted back in the wrong way.

It's likely the part sets are set incorrectly. You have to both configure the Wards included and configure the zones included for in that ward separately.

That is correct most systems will have anti-tamper protection on all the devices. Sounds like you have reset it for now. For audible only domestic would expected to get it checked out annually.

Code # ? Alarms need regular maintenance what you have described is common for an unmaintained alarm. If you want to use it I would recommend having it serviced to make sure you are not disturbed in the early hours again. Alternatively if you are not planning on using it, have someone come out an decommission it properly.

Normally this would indicate a tamper fault at the bell but difficult to confirm that diagnosis without inspection. When was the last time the system was serviced?

This thread is a bit of a ramble that lasted over a month, also a few years old now but worth a read and may help you answer a few questions. http://www.thesecurityinstaller.co.uk/community/topic/40567-pyronix-homecontrol-vs-visonic-powermax/

First question is do you think you are capable of completing the job, we have had many DIY installers pass through here and struggle to install or program there systems. Do you have the time and/or patience to mess around for getting your system operational, if not consider getting a few quotes. Secondly is there a reason for looking at wireless systems, many systems can be easily and discretely wired if you know what you are doing. Regarding the systems you have asked about, they are both different types of system Pyronix being a wireless system whereas Texecom having lots of hybrid options. I would also install a system with a separate keypad where possible. Your question regarding the Texecom equipment is a bit vague, there are lots of different options for alerts depending on the model. No transmission modules are included with any of the Texecom panels so you can decide which is best for the job. Do note no "private reporting" system is as secure as a monitored system where the transmission path is polled regularly to check its operation. Anything is easy when you know what you are doing, I imagine from a DIY POV Pyronix being more plug and play whereas Texecom has loads of options still doesn't mean either can be installed easily with no knowledge.

Possible but with programming and some caveats... Firstly, current you need to do some current calculations to make sure your standby battery for the controls can last one activation and 12 hours, this will affect how you design the system. Secondly, SAB on a expander is possible on a Texe they have a input that can be programmed as tamper return on the wired expanders. However, you have the issue of the bell sharing voltage with the rest of the network so be aware of voltage drop, I would personally only use this for an extra SCB myself. Lastly keypad zones need mapping to a "real" zone so make sure you have enough zones.

If I understand the question correctly there is no other wire. The tamper wire is a return to the control box sent from the bellbox, normally a negative the panel is looking for.

Without restoring power to the system and entering your code, there is no easy way to disable the alarm, they are intentionally designed this way.

Definitely tamper microswitch the three fixings bottom right as norm, lid screw holding the tamper leaf closed.

If you are not sure, get three quotes go with the company you feel most comfortable with.

This Verisure? http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-5602381/Relatives-floral-tributes-burglar-killed-pensioner.html

I suppose we are talking positive trigger. Invert the trigger with a few basic components or a transistorised relay maybe easier.