al-yeti
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Posts posted by al-yeti
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3 hours ago, neon555 said:
Hi guys,
I've purchased myself a simple access control system and I'm fairly confident I know what I need to do.
The power leads appear to not matter how they are connected (which does to + and -, as long as they are connected).
One thing I want to check before I start is what type of wire I should be using to connect the components. The "Power Supply Control" is a K80 (see attached picture).
The device will be outputting 12v DC (3A). I know this is not much different from the alarm system I installed a year or two ago, but I am unsure if I can use the same cable. The alarm cable is 8 core cable, so presumably I would slice it open and use a single strand - as per each required wire, but whenever something comes to electrics I always like to be 100% sure.
Will I be okay to use the wire in the manner I have described. Should I use all 8 cables per connection or should I be using a totally different wire entirely (taking an AC cable and using an individual strand of that) OR shall I use something else entirely. If you could include any information - as well as possibly links - to the best wire to use, it would be greatly appreciated.
Many thanks for your continued support guys,
John
Alarm cable will do
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1 hour ago, GalaxyGuy said:
The last time I looked at this, the Flex would not allow the portal to coexist with the Rio on an fx20 in the way that was allowed on the older g2-20 panels. The panel responded differently depending on which module was added first (Rio or portal).
Wonder why they called it flex , not very flexible then
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1 hour ago, dra6ko said:
Everything set up and work fine.
But the manual helped a lot.There was not a chance to make something without it.
Shame that would have made a good sacrifice if we burned the panel on a stake
Just kidding yeah.....
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13 minutes ago, dra6ko said:
Found the original manual in one bag in my home with the left sensors and other parts from the set.
If anyone need it I can make some scans.
Now I will try to set it up,if I have any questions I will put them in new separate thread.
Your a proper classic man
But well done for keep going and trying we wouldn't lol
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21 hours ago, dra6ko said:
Here are some pics.
How is the right position of the door sensor?
And the current state of the control panel.
Use two sensors and they are connected in Zone 7 and Zone 6 as like their labels.
But the door sensor don't have any zone label.Currently is in Zone 1,but I don't know.
What mean when the sensor's LED flashes in red?
Tested the horn and it work fine when I release the button at back of the control panel.
Battery status is low because I use power supply for the tests.The batteries are removed.
I'm not newbie with the electronics and computers so with little help will do the things.
I have this system from 5-6 years and now it's time to use it.So sorry that I didn't hold the manual.
Can I see a picture of the main panel board how you wired it ?
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6 minutes ago, sixwheeledbeast said:
I do know it's DIY, if you know how to work on one then that's fine maybe you can answer the questions, I am just saying I doubt anyone here has fitted one and it's not easy to work out unless you are in front of the thing.
When I go looking for professional advise I don't expect people to guess when they advise me.
The picture of the door contact is a bit too close to answer the previous question regarding fitment.
I get you man , hardcore burgalar alarm kits like this are beyond me
4 minutes ago, dra6ko said:Alright this is some help for the door.
What is the normal distance.
And what is the right fir-arrow vs arrow or opposite.I think it's arrow vs arrow the right one.
Do you have a meter ? DVM? You can experiment to see what distance the contact closes and opens , although "guessing" a few mm will do
If the contact is right next to each other and the zone light still doesn't go out then must be another fault , providing you can prove the contact is working in the first place
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7 minutes ago, sixwheeledbeast said:
It's not kit that people in the trade would touch, hence the response you are getting regarding the manual.
I am sorry this is not what you are looking for but each person that has responded has given there personal opinion nothing more, it is a forum after all.
But this is DIY section? So he just needs some tips or even a guess lol
44 minutes ago, dra6ko said:These are not answers for help.
I need help.The system is working it need to be just set up nothing more,and I need someone that can help me or upload/pay for the manual.
Ok so if it's working what needs to be setup then?
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1 hour ago, Nova-Security said:
Not sure on the flex but 12 zones on the panel ? add an RF module doesn't that take 8 up making 20 and your panel is a flex 20
I thought you could do RF on all the zones like the g2 , your thinking dimension?
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1 minute ago, PeterJames said:
Driod is andriod, but I dont have Hik or Ring anymore I sent them back, I have a cheapo Chinese one from Ebay which on the whole worked better than the other two, but still doesnt work like the advert.
My honest opinion, there isnt a doorbell product that works like the Ring ad....yet. There will be as it is improving all the time. I would recommend a cheapo £30.00 Chines one until they do bring one out that actually works, either that or get a Comlit VIP system, they do work but they are hard wired not WiFi quite a bit bigger than ring or Hik, and considerably more expensive.
You know sparkies hate the comlit they sell it and screw it to wall and get stuck after that , then says it's rubbish
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25 minutes ago, sixwheeledbeast said:
No push notification is 100% guaranteed, there are too many third parties involved and it's not a two way polled communication.
What third parties?
You mean like the WiFi connection , broadband and so on itself?
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7 minutes ago, dra6ko said:
I just need some help nothing more.
If I need to pay some $$ I can do it.
Regards
So have you wired anything up yet ? What's the problem with it?
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10 hours ago, PeterJames said:
It will be good when someone produces one of these doorbells that works like they do in the adverts. Maybe they will work better when we have 5g, but I somehow doubt it when they are useless on WiFi
If they could make a Poe version or ethernet only would be better
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1 hour ago, ispy said:
I have a customer with a line fault constantly showing on the enforcer v9.13
There is no comms in use so i have been through the programming and checked for anything comms pstn related that’s enabled which all seems ok,
has anyone else had this issue?
No Comms in use? Does this mean line is also not connected ? Just wondering
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3 hours ago, PeterJames said:
Ive tried the hik and the ring and the cheap Chinese one found on ebay for £50.
Non of them worked as advertised, I still have the Chinese one, it works for my purposes, rings, records on my driods, but it doesnt call my phone (the app drains my smartphone battery far too much) . All of them have poor connection and delays when the doorbells are connected, they are nothing like the TV adverts even when you are in the house on the same WiFi connection. The motion detect alarm goes off for no apparent reason even on the lowest setting.
Ring I think seems to fair better but the missing the relay bit , which would then put them on top I reckon , I still don't have one tho lol , probably get a Chinese version with onvif
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3 hours ago, CARETAKER46 said:
Hi Guys
I would like to Purchase Video Door Bell, which will ring the Chime, it needs to record , It need to have speaker, so can have 2 way conversation, Motion Detection and Waterproof, as it will be fitted outside my Front door frame.
There are 5 models I have found, so I want to which is the latest model and I need to buy, so I can see on my phone and also in future I will buy CCTV System and may be connect to NVR, but this is NOT important.
Please can you advice what is the Difference so Pros and Cons below 5 models.
I know the DS-KB6403-WIP is 12 volt and will not Operate chime.
I know the DS-KB6003-WIP is 24volt and will Operate chime.
The DS-KB8112-IM is vandal proof and water proof, but this looks to bulky for residential area.
Ring Video Door bell 2 you have to subscribe to iCloud and you have to pay monthly or yearly subscription and the Hikvision you can use the TF SD Micro memory card.
I think the Hikvison will be better option in long run due to No subscription.
I thought I asked you guys or if you know any other good brand similar to Hikvision or RIng.
https://eu.ring.com/products/video-doorbell-2
https://www.hikvision.com/en/Products/Video-Intercom/Vandal-Resistant-Door-Bell/DS-KB8112-IM
https://www.hikvision.com/en/Products/Video-Intercom/Wi-Fi-Door-Bell/DS-KB6403-WIP
https://us.hikvision.com/en/blog/hikvision-launches-new-video-doorbell-camera
https://www.hikvision.com/europe/Products/Video-Intercom/Wi-Fi-Door-Bell/DS-KB6003-WIP
Your better off with the hik as it will connect to there other systems
As a doorbell they are okish but all drop out on WiFi and have lag and all other kinds of rubbish
But already the hik will chime your existing wired bell
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Did you address correctly
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List zones showing in menu
When you added the Rio did you address it enter engineer mode then exit , I assume adding a Rio hasn't changed on the flex then when exiting it says new mod added
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3 hours ago, esw7scottia said:
Hi Folks. we have resently taken over a tea rooms with 4 door sensors and 2 pir. the control is a EUROSEC CP8L LCD.
There is a problem with the pir in the back room going off more frequently.
this would seem to be low backup battery or faulty pir.
Can I open up the control and replace the battery and at the same time replace the pir?
I dont know if there is an internal tamper alarm, Do you?
Barry And Debs
Just try it
Worse case if you value the property you will have alarm fixed by an engineer
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18 hours ago, MrHappy said:
I can no longer meet people off the internet as their is no longer any room under my patio...
Need a refurb somewhere they will have room
16 hours ago, norman said:That's an image I could do without.
You still thinking about it yeah?
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14 hours ago, LeepyLee said:
Thanks for thatThanks for that... yellow man though?
Yeah Mr Happy if you need it fixed unless your not near his area , i reckon he be good at the enforcer
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2 hours ago, Nath@Homesmart said:
There is another panel that I can access but I don't know what I have to do when i go through the settings.
Regards
Nathan
In that case definitely get engineer it will be worth it
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30 minutes ago, LeepyLee said:
Can anyone identify this panel please? All I have is the installers name on it, no make or model identification.
Many thanks
Lee
Pyronix enforcer
There might be yellow man near you
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2 hours ago, Nath@Homesmart said:
Thank you both.
I don't have access to the engineer menu as we didn't have it installed for us, it was here when we moved in and not sure how it works if i am honest.
I will probably be best to get someone to service it as it has been here before we had this building.
Regards
Nathan
There's probably another panel it's connected to or has been removed , so yes good idea to have it looked at
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2 hours ago, sixwheeledbeast said:
There is no battle, I stand by what I said years ago that fitting Hik is race to the bottom. I fit proven gear I trust, if people don't want that quality of service they will find someone else to throw it in.
Huawei will never be dust, we are too far down the road of having there stuff everywhere it's in both Openreach and mobile backbones plus all the consumer gear - routers and tv boxes etc.
Yes US have dropped all Chinese gear going forward but they have people just as corrupt on the other side of the argument. I can't see them expanding into the 5G market at the moment but far from dust.
It's not about user end equipment , issue is backbone network being dropped by EU and u.s , most operators are actually removing some of there equipment dude ........ And your correct they are far from gone plenty of other takers
Access Control System Wiring
in !!..DIY Installers..!!
Posted
Hardcore cheap though