Two things of note here, if your panel is pulling over half an amp quiescent that seems quite high to me and also if your new battery is dropping to 12v under load I would suggest its not a good battery.
Most likely because you are activating the devices just before or during the setting procedure. Wireless devices will go to sleep for a short period after activation to conserve battery life. If you try triggering a device that has not activated recently you should find the system will respond almost immediately.
The Testifire one issued to me at G4S was £1400.
The fire guy at has one apart at the moment, he seems to know what he's doing, if theres anything I can ask him for you Pete?
Currently we send the Checkbox and the calibrated meter off for calibration annually. The Checkbox works but its a bit of fanny on and on current calibration the figures are never steady. We probably need new leads or maybe the connections are past their best and we need a new box. I just thought there maybe a more modern automatic unit, guess there is little call for it to be worthwhile developing.
Hi Guys, what kit do you use for multi meter calibration? We currently have an older version of one of these Calmaster units which seems to be a bit of a faf on to me,. Is there not something more modern that is a maybe more automatic and produces a print out of results or is that just silly money anyway? Just wondering if this is what you guys all use also?
The zone sits in alarm, Ive taken the pir back to the storeman and told him they aint no good as a replacement for some of our existing panels. Fine for new installs of course.
It was Pete, would do it all again if I could guarantee the same perfect day.
You dont get the option of not connecting the AM up it only has 2 connections for the loop
Hi guys its been a while since my last confession but it seems I could do with some help, I dont see much intruder these days.
I was given one of these Texecom Premier Elite AMDT to replace a defective Honeywell DT, the existing DT is connected to a Menvier panel.
Am I right in thinking that these detectors can only be used in a EOL situation? I couldnt see how you could connect them as just an old traditional 2 loop alarm and tamper circuit.
You may think its not required, but when you get turned over by a client or an insurance company you will wish you had it.
Furthermore, failing to advise an insurance company doesnt mean they wont take it into account. I would be pretty certain if the insurance assessor turns out after a break in and see's the alarm panel theyre gonna ask the question was it set? If it wasnt they wont pay out, if it was they'll come looking for you!
Im be surprised if you have insurance for failure to perform based on your figures alone you couldnt afford it and make a living from what your doing.
If the unthinkable happens your going to be in deep poop if the client takes you to court.
And while you assume that your not taking business away from from a proffessional company, if a potential client has quotes from companies, approved or not and you come along with your DIY system offered as a proffessional system some are going to take you up on it.
I hear what your saying about the costs etc and understand why your doing it but the risk your taking is massive and sooner or later you might get bitten.
I didnt have a first installation, i started out as a Service Engineer.
Old Granley Panels were the first i worked on, proper lamps in them no led's and eol transformers.
I used to service the CCTV in a local Crem, i was always facinated and had the "XXX" guided tour, doors open while they burn. It was a entertaining to me to see them burning, far from gruesome, but then again it was all down to the location if you catch my drift!