20 hours ago, sixwheeledbeast said:

No idea with the Honeywell listed but all the DT's I fit are also Quads, worth checking yes. As you say no point in a DT with one of the technologies always active.

That's right the MW power needs to be regulated so it does not see beyond my apartment but as I said I have thick walls and I don't think the MW detector will see past them even at full power.

 

I've seen grade 3 installations with ceiling sensors from RISCO (Lunar G3 DT AM) pointing at windows. The installer was obviously doing it wrong as the MW sensor will see beyond the window.

MW will see through the windows and walls the PIR wont 

15 hours ago, sixwheeledbeast said:

Pointing sensors at windows is the exact opposite of how sensors should be fitted.

PIRs or DT's is a meh issue, if installed correctly I don't see why not. I'd spec Optex quads but I don't see an issue.

In the Landry room there's a small ventilation window and this is the only one I would really put the DT but put all DT sensors to make the installation more uniform.

 

I've also bought today the same detector without MW (they even share the same case) because I think I might have issues with the middle hall and the main hall being pointed at each other... Maybe I'll put the one without MW in the internal hall.

3 minutes ago, PeterJames said:

MW will see through the windows and walls the PIR wont 

Exactly what I said ? 

15 hours ago, sixwheeledbeast said:

I'd spec Optex quads 

Exactly what I would recomend, why install DTs its not needed its like using a tractor for your daily commute. It will get you there but slowly The op is already thinking his concrete walls are 15 metres thick, and mw wont see through them 

3 minutes ago, Kenneth Volt said:

 

Exactly what I said ? 

My point is if you use PIR instead of DT you can point them at the windows and they wont fa if someone walks past but will pick up an intruder much quicker.

I dont understand why you are installing G3 kit either 

2 minutes ago, PeterJames said:

Exactly what I would recomend, why install DTs its not needed its like using a tractor for your daily commute. It will get you there but slowly The op is already thinking his concrete walls are 15 metres thick, and mw wont see through them 

The OP has actually tested the MW in thinner walls and the MW did not see past them. Alas, they can be regulated and they should be regulated.

 

Thanks for all your input guys.

Just now, Kenneth Volt said:

The OP has actually tested the MW in thinner walls and the MW did not see past them. Alas, they can be regulated and they should be regulated.

 

Thanks for all your input guys.

If the DT says it will see 15 metres thats how far it sees regardless of walls thats how RADAR Doppler works.

2 minutes ago, PeterJames said:

If the DT says it will see 15 metres thats how far it sees regardless of walls thats how RADAR Doppler works.

Not sure what your point is but if you turn the MW down to the minimum it will see 5 metres (again regardless of walls floors or ceilings)

48 would be more than enough, it's will never be a G3 system but you seem to be aspiring to that spec. Have you considered standby time, I prefer more PSU's i.e.  PSU200XP and 7Ah batteries over 17Ah.

In fairness some of this is completely pointless overkill (we have to assume the risk based on DIY), your bound to have unnecessary headaches with G3 kit which is some of PJ's point.

I still can't agree pointing any movement sensors towards windows/openings is in anyway correct or has faster detection, you'll also never find a manufacturers instructions to concur with this.

You can get crosstalk with MW, I only fit Optex ones with anti-crosstalk but none of your sensors are close enough.

I'd say it's only the "pointless" hall one with any chance of MW leakage outside the protected area, I'd also assume K band MW which has less wall penetration.