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Calling all nerds and experts ! Please help!!


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Hi all, I bit the bullet today and decided to try and repair/set up my mums alarm which has been powered down and nonworking for some time. I’ll try and state all the steps I’ve made- then it’ll help with any advice you all might offer. Please excuse my lack of knowledge and experience, I’m quite the newbie. Currently at my mums house whilst she’s away hoping to sort this for her as a surprise for when she’s home. 

 

(I believe her alarm is an sl8 ade/accenta sl compact but I’ll attach photos for confirmation)

 

SO! after having power drop out to the keypad some time ago I checked the panel box and found the PCB was bent and cracked from being not being clipped into its slot properly back in installation back in 2000! When I pushed on the board power was temporarily and intermittently restored (wiring to the pcb was fine) so I deemed a new pcb might be worth a shot. I swapped over all the wiring and powered up. (See first two pics for the model)

 

immediately both the internal keypad chime and exterior alarm sounded. When seeing the keypad , only the far light led (power) was lit up - all keys made a sound when pressed. (Pic of keypad attached) 

 

So, where do I go from here? My next step I assume would be to reset the panel box- enter engineer mode- set new code for alarm system and yay! 

 

Problem is I don’t know how to do this! I think from a google search the system is an sl8 compact, but it could be a g3, it’s a bit confusing! 

 

Any VERY basic step by step instruction would be much appreciated! The PCB is in the loft- so I’m sprinting downstairs to the hallway each time to check things!

:(

 

many thankyous. 

 

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41A52238-9893-411F-AF8F-624AC1F39487.jpeg

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So the panels going to need programming, I assume it came with a manual that would be the best reference to program your system.

If you want to mess about and test without running up and down, you could temporarily wire the keypad on small piece of cable adjacent the panel.

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Urgh, alas it didn’t. Like I said it was done around the year 2000 - and an installation manual wasn’t provided. From what I can gather online (if it IS the sl8 model) I have to press reset twice within 5 secs of the alarm being powered up. That is only one of a few solutions I’ve found online so I’m kind of guessing. Provided I can pull up the wiring I could connect the keypad in the loft I guess....

(I don’t have any additional cable to run additional short cables from the pcb)

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3 minutes ago, Marcous said:

Urgh, alas it didn’t. Like I said it was done around the year 2000 - and an installation manual wasn’t provided. From what I can gather online (if it IS the sl8 model) I have to press reset twice within 5 secs of the alarm being powered up. That is only one of a few solutions I’ve found online so I’m kind of guessing. Provided I can pull up the wiring I could connect the keypad in the loft I guess....

(I don’t have any additional cable to run additional short cables from the pcb)

No manual with the new PCB?

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We are unable to provide defaulting information, it could be that the PCB supplied had the engineer code changed already. Have you tried the default user code on power up? Its either #REMOVED# or #REMOVED# I cant remember its been a while.

Edited by sixwheeledbeast
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Tried #REMOVED# I believe this was the default code, and #REMOVED#. It may be that you have to press reset twice within 5seconds (as per the sl8 compact manual) might try that after cutting off an end of wire in order to wire it upstairs in loft- defo worth a try?

 

Edited by sixwheeledbeast
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Okay so the pair marked tamp on the PCB the pair marked pa and the TA marked are all 24 hr circuits these should all be closed circuits. To make sure they are you need to remove one wire from the pcb and meter set to continuity put one probe on the wire you removed and one probe on the other in the pcb. If you have continuity on Tamp and PA thats great, the TA is a little harder to test as its a tamper return which means it has to be powered before it becomes a circuit. The easiest way around this is to put a link in across the T and A.you could just put links in all three tbf. The spring switch on the main panel is also a taper switch you need to be sure that this is depressing the button when you power up. The keypad is the only other thing that has a tamper but assuming its screwed down tightly it should be okay 

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Thankyou. I just about understand. How I link across I’m a bit confused about- but I can certainly check everything else. The tamper led wasn’t on when I powered up if that helps. Certainly connecting the keypad next to the pcb is a good idea from the previous post. I am sure reset must be pressed twice within 5seconds in order to reset the pcb. Anything else and I may just order a new box or alarm fitter 

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29 minutes ago, Marcous said:

Ok I can try this tomorrow. I’ll maybe use an off cut of wire from the keypad I’ll use to connect the keypad in the loft 

Just be aware the keypad also has tamper buttons 

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1 minute ago, sixwheeledbeast said:

And the panel lid....

If nothing is disturbed why are the tampers being linked?

Its easier than try to explain how to check that theyre not open circuit. Although the fault was diagnosed as a cracked PCB the person who diagnosed it is an amateur, therefore the diagnosis may or may not have been correct. The problem could have just be open circuit tamper or PA, all along. But starting back to basics is the easiest place to start.

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We do not allow sharing of engineering manuals or defaulting information on this site as per our guidelines.

http://www.thesecurityinstaller.co.uk/community/guidelines/

 

If other sites are willing to host information that could enable someone to learn how to bypass or disable your alarm system that is there responsibility.

 

You have no evidence this ebay PCB is functional so you could just be wasting your time. Even if you know how to default it without a full programming manual you are not going to be able to set it up.

There is no step by step instructions every job is different and needs programming differently.

 

I would say there are two sensible options for a working system going forward:-

*Get someone who knows what they are doing to come out check everything over and program the panel.

*Buy a new control panel which would come with instructions, read it through and teach yourself how to fit and program it from the instructions provided.

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Ah ok. Well that’s fair enough . 

 

I think youre right, and probably the second of the two options seems more sensible to me. Thank you for your input. A final thing however, when purchasing a new Panel box (not pcb as I wouldn’t know where to buy one) would the pcb be included inside? 

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