james.wilson Posted July 1, 2010 Share Posted July 1, 2010 lol ok my 2 cents. securitywarehouse Security Supplies from Security Warehouse Trade Members please contact us for your TSI vetted trade discount. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JWElect Posted July 1, 2010 Author Share Posted July 1, 2010 SD1 is pretty simple TBH. As the others its more likely in need of a BB filter. You have got it to trigger so its probably wired correctly. Thats what I was thinking mate, It is "trying to work", It just keeps cutting off before anyone has a chance to answer their phone. i though it was straight forward enough, But when this started happening it made me question myself as to whether I had wired it correctly. But as you say it is triggering. I will try with the filter and as Breff mensioned, I will try connecting c directly onto the -neg to see if it work then. I am really at a loss with this tbh, I was thinking the filter today myself but then I thought would it cut off at exactly the same time each time because there is no filter?, I then tried making an out going call from the phone connected to the socket with no filter and it worked fine so it threw me of that trail a little. sd range are imho the best of the bunch. cant think of anything better. the sd1 is the basic one of the set. Its an SD1+, ....... Doubt the + would make a difference to the answers though LOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Oxo Posted July 1, 2010 Share Posted July 1, 2010 IIRC you can tell it what polarity it needs with the jumper on the back. Move that rather than rewire the connections. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JWElect Posted July 1, 2010 Author Share Posted July 1, 2010 Good point mate, There is a jumper on it. Its at -neg. I will try it on + tomorrow. However I did already try the dialer on the -neg applied stobe and I still got the same prob when I triggered the alarm. Dont think this is the prob, Gonna try it again though as Ive ran out of other ideas LOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antinode Posted July 1, 2010 Share Posted July 1, 2010 Disconnect the trigger wire from the panel, and power the SD1 down. Then power it back up and try to send a test call using the SD1's menus. If it can dial out, the problem is with the way you are triggering it. If not, it's either the phoneline (as above, check for broadband, this will cause problems!) or the dialer. Trade Member Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JWElect Posted July 1, 2010 Author Share Posted July 1, 2010 Disconnect the trigger wire from the panel, and power the SD1 down. Then power it back up and try to send a test call using the SD1's menus. If it can dial out, the problem is with the way you are triggering it. If not, it's either the phoneline (as above, check for broadband, this will cause problems!) or the dialer. Antinode, I think You have hit on something here, Maybe I should have said sooner but the test calls are connecting fine M8. Good point. What could be wrong with the way I am triggering it? I Must have missed this point as my head has been fried with it today. I dont like things beating me but I have to admit that this did today. Sometimes it better to walk away and come back tomorrow with a fresh head Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antinode Posted July 1, 2010 Share Posted July 1, 2010 Depending on the way the jumper on the back of the SD1 is set (either to pos or neg, as Oxo says), the SD1 is looking for a hard 0v or hard 12v to trigger it. To test this, try settting the jumper to 0v and connect the trigger wire directly to the PIR supply 0v (probably marked as Aux 0v or Aux -) This will apply a hard negative voltage to the trigger input and should trigger the SD1 properly every time. Trade Member Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rulland Posted July 1, 2010 Share Posted July 1, 2010 Imho I think It's a SD1+ fault!-if it's receiving a 'trigger' it would either see it as such or do nowt I reckon!. Being as it's doing something when the input is received-all be it cutting out after two rings-it is acting on that trigger!-to start and then stop the dial attempts points to something else I reckon-software loop?. Again imho the Tex dialler is better-4 inputs,8 contact number,software settings for pos or neg input-and easier user/installer interface. Power down, do factory reset/short pins etc and take it from there-software glitch perhaps!-seem to remember from my distant past having the same sort of problem........ If the dialler is taking 12v dc from the alarm panel and you use bell neg to input c (intruder)surely that input shouldn't be 'floating' or not a true neg as it's a common supply to both bits of kit!. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JWElect Posted July 1, 2010 Author Share Posted July 1, 2010 Depending on the way the jumper on the back of the SD1 is set (either to pos or neg, as Oxo says), the SD1 is looking for a hard 0v or hard 12v to trigger it. To test this, try settting the jumper to 0v and connect the trigger wire directly to the PIR supply 0v (probably marked as Aux 0v or Aux -) This will apply a hard negative voltage to the trigger input and should trigger the SD1 properly every time. Thanks for this m8. Saying this does work, What would my options be for connecting it to the panel if the "alarm" output isn`t working. The panel is a pyronix sterling 10. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james.wilson Posted July 1, 2010 Share Posted July 1, 2010 are you silencing the alarm before the calls have gone through? There is an abort option that stops the dialler in case of false alarms. securitywarehouse Security Supplies from Security Warehouse Trade Members please contact us for your TSI vetted trade discount. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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