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Puzzling Electrical Feed Issue?


richie

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Guest Sparky169
Never had a shock caused by live mains, had a belt from a row of fluorescent lights back feeding once tho...ouch! :)

the one was in a pub as the barmaid turned the circuit back on even though is was taped off and a notice was on the board.

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]

my advice now is if you are not a sparks or an alarm engineer then that is where this problem would be heading towards, I am not being disrespectful to you richie but by the way of your information you dont show that you are compentant with electrics.

try one of these installers

cheers

colin

No offence taken Colin. I am actually a Lift Engineer so I am confident with electrical installations. But obviously I dont do alarms. Unless they are part of a lift!!

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IF you have checked at the fuses all is OK the most likely cause is the quick blow fuse within the alarm box itself. BEFORE you open the alarm box housing remove the mains fuse from the fusebox.

Use a test meter set to continiuty to check the internal fuse - if blown replace with similar (Tandy, Maplins etc will be be your best source).

If not blown replace mains fuse in fusebox and check both sides of panel fuse with a test meter set to 240v.

IF AS YOU SAY YOU ARE COMPETENT FROM YOUR LIFT WORK THIS SHOULD NOT PRESENT YOU TO MANY PROBLEMS,BUT IF YOU THINK ANY OF THE ABOVE IS BEYOND YOUR COMPETENCE LEVEL DO NOT EVEN START IT - GET A PRO. IN

if you find that 240 is at both sides of fuse then you need to get a alarms engineer in to check your control unit.

Also be aware as soon as you remove cover from alarm it will (or should) activate internal sounders and you will need to turn it off.

Then again your alarm may already be dead (stand by battery flat) if you have had power off for a while to it so once you replace fuse it will come back to life ,(if this is so i advise replacing stand by battery)and may need completely reprogramming in which case you will need to get a engineer in anyway.

To save you asking we can,t give defaulting or programming info out as per forum rules

Paul

THE BLACK KNIGHT

"Any comments / opinions posted are my opinion only and do not represent those of my employer or Company."

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Guest Dave the alarm man
did you know i have only ever had two electric shocks

so they gave up on electroconvulsive therapy for you then?

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I am not an electrician either but I had a loss of supply problem in my son's flat. To cut a long story short, the live supply tested as fine at all points (with a neon screwdriver) and the fault was a loose terminal at the supply company's fuse, on the neutral line. The moral is, don't neglect the neutral.

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IF you have checked at the fuses all is OK the most likely cause is the quick blow fuse within the alarm box itself. BEFORE you open the alarm box housing remove the mains fuse from the fusebox.

Use a test meter set to continiuty to check the internal fuse - if blown replace with similar (Tandy, Maplins etc will be be your best source).

If not blown replace mains fuse in fusebox and check both sides of panel fuse with a test meter set to 240v.

IF AS YOU SAY YOU ARE COMPETENT FROM YOUR LIFT WORK THIS SHOULD NOT PRESENT YOU TO MANY PROBLEMS,BUT IF YOU THINK ANY OF THE ABOVE IS BEYOND YOUR COMPETENCE LEVEL DO NOT EVEN START IT - GET A PRO. IN

if you find that 240 is at both sides of fuse then you need to get a alarms engineer in to check your control unit.

Also be aware as soon as you remove cover from alarm it will (or should) activate internal sounders and you will need to turn it off.

Then again your alarm may already be dead (stand by battery flat) if you have had power off for a while to it so once you replace fuse it will come back to life ,(if this is so i advise replacing stand by battery)and may need completely reprogramming in which case you will need to get a engineer in anyway.

To save you asking we can,t give defaulting or programming info out as per forum rules

Paul

There is not even a 240 supply going to the panel. As I say this is what I cant understand as the lights, which are on the same circuit, are fine. So the alarm is protected via the same fuse as the lights but although I get a clear 240 supply to my lights, I get nothin to my alarm panel.

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