aissecur
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Posts posted by aissecur
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Its certainly an old panel, is there a yellow date stamp on the back of the panel pcb? (please only look if you are electrically competent and confident to do so)
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Take a look at zone 3.... looks like two circuits may of been wired in parallel (is this the zone where there are two detection devices on?) -
If there are two detectors on zone 3 then they must be wired in series
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Pyronix enforcer panel in the house, fit one of their new wireless pirs (XDL12TT-WE) across the driveway (when set up correctly it can give you push notifications to your mobile phone) - probably not as good as IR beam but just making a suggestion...
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Its probably safe to say in the last few years,when mains power is lost to your alarm control panel, the back up battery (before it was swapped out) would give you anything from 10 minutes to an hour backup time (dependant on the systems current demand / any alarm activations within that period...)
False economy in my eyes as it seriously degrades the security of your system
Most alarm companies measure the battery Ah capacity when the system is serviced and replace when it has lost a set percentage of its capacity (or after a set time frame 3 / 4 years)
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Yale are not too bad at locks but not as a CCTV / Intruder alarm suppler IMHO, if you have the skills / knowledge to fit then look at Pyronix enforcer but I would thoroughly recommend getting an installation company in to assess your home & vulnerabilities.
That way hopefully you can have peace of mind
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17 hours ago, sixwheeledbeast said:
If they are the wireless ones there is only a multisensor option and I wouldn't call them suitable for a kitchen.
I agree
Strange that they operate when the house is unoccupied (I assume the dish washer has not been left on a cycle or anything)
Does the kitchen suffer from excessive temperatures (Ie roof poorly insulated?)
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10 minutes ago, datadiffusion said:
It did seem endemic, Texe issue happened on quite a few properties around the same age.
In that case, they need a rethink on the Kitchen unless the Texe wireless can be switched to Heat Only.
Texecom do a wireless heat & smoke - Model number OHW - GBN-0001 - I bet that what is installed
To fit anything other than a heat in a kitchen is asking for trouble
If it is located anywhere near the kettle or steam when the dishwasher is opened I would suggest it is relocated as a minimum
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especially as you can alter the settings on the unit (it can be heat 60 deg / 77 deg / rate of rise & smoke) - I think ive got that right
never the less they are good
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David, if it was me I would be installing the Eaton / cooper M12 (4 in 1 detector) - I have a couple at home and they haven't missed a beat
I fitted a few texecom in the past and after a few years had false alarm issue...
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I've used a lot of aico's domestically with very few issues - they get a thumbs up from me
A cloud based system would be interesting
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yep it a ricochet system... I fitted one of the wireless smokes and seems ok
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Ive fitted a few eurosecs over the years (agreed they are not the best) if you can upload a pic maybe I could be of some help
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10 hours ago, Reddwarf4ever said:
Yes that’s the keypads......
can anyone one help me with the engineer sequence to remove and add zones ? P l e a s e
have the manual, but the YES NO options get a bit confusing, I am capable, I am to programming, but just need a little help.
thanks in advance...
PS the displays are crystal clear.....and I am certain as I can be it was installed in 1987 as it was installed as the house was being built, which was in 1987......why does the year sound strange ???
im sure this is the contour 6 wire keypad
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As a suggestion if you are struggling, use the keypad spare cores to take the contact cores back to the panel and connect into the endstation
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No GJD elite do not bleep inn the detector (But nothing stopping you putting a small buzzer in the detector (if you can fit it in) or in a waterproof JB next to the detector.
Ive used the GJD wireless opal's and didn't think they were that good - my advise wire if you can
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as a suggestion why not pull in another cat 6 and feed the forth camera off this ? If its only a 20mtr run in tube it shouldn't be too bad to install (Just watch the new burning against the existing cable if you do it )
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I've have two system out there that the power light flashes constantly (even though mains are present), voltage within tolerance, battery ok (ah capacity measured with ACT battery meter) End station not in a warm environment...
Contacted Honeywell and they could not explain...
Customer happy as all works as it should and cannot justify the change of controls to fix a flashing led
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You can hard reset the device by holding down the reset button on the left of the unit (I think you hold it down for 15 seconds)
I would try that then try again to reconfigure
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I would think twice before using this kit (for the sake of the user and your insurance)
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Worked on these redcot systems a couple of times before, they appear to always lock the nvm
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I am an installer so unsure on the comment??
I'm unsure myself on the cause, I'm thinking possibly a dodgy router or dodgy Hik doorbell (It is fibre broadband but that wont make a difference) - maybe a call to EE or failing that purchase a better router...
Anyone any suggestions on routers?
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EE's own (I had a EE brightbox previously then that went t*ts up so got their latest one about a year ago)
Would have to look in the loft to confirm....
Are you possibly suggesting digging deep for a new router?
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lol
has anyone else got similar Hik door bell issues?
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I've got the hik door bell, its within three meters of the router and it sends more time off line than it does on....
I'm have thinking of taking it back as it certainly doesn't perform the way I expected
LED Keypad for Avanti
in !!..DIY Installers..!!
Posted
They are made by a company called MDT.
I'm unsure if they are still in existence...
The led part number is : - 9EP310 Avanti LED RKP
Inside the main control panel are there any stickers that say LED or LCD (ive seen these but never fitted them)