aissecur
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Posts posted by aissecur
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My Money would be on hard drive, it sounds like you don’t know that kit so probably don’t know if all the system parameters are set up correctly
certainly worth getting a professional in to give it a once over
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One solution would be, fit a mobile 4g router (with data sim in it) & connect this directly to his Cctv, this would give him remote viewing.
granted would cost him a few extra quid a month topping up pay as you go data but it would workIve used this method a few times to remote view empty properties that have no internet connection
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As per previous comment, adjust the spring & ensure the battery is at a healthy level
some sit on a spacer, so make sure that’s not causing any issues Or that the spring is not bent (has that before)
if you want to remove from the zone you need the engineer code & it’s done on the program zones (first option when in engineers mode)
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have you programmed as a fire zone?
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I've seen the annke stuff on a few occasions, I think they may missed the W off
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I know it may seem like an expense, but at the end of the day if regularly maintained & kept updated / in good working then it will give you peace of mind...
With respect some people just see an alarm as fit & forget
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be mindful that the engineers code may be locked !
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be mindful to replace them with the correct sized quick blow fuses (if you don't intend to get an installer in & DIY it)
The fuses are sized to prevent damage or possible fire!
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You could of simply put the bell in engineer hold off mode, removed the power to it & then you wouldn’t of had any messing with it
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On 01/06/2020 at 21:29, Logan said:
Maybe
Not sure I follow, have you been sniffing urinals ? -
On 31/05/2020 at 11:39, Logan said:
Its 100db
Near enough
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Yes I think it’s about 109db
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On 29/05/2020 at 18:56, kwc said:
Set the system and trip a NON exit entry zone. This should sound the bell.
if working on bell test then can only be there is a bell delay set or tripping an entry timed zone and not waiting until full entry time has expired.
You need to check the zine you trigger is programmed as a 12hr (ie instant alarm on zone)
failing that press & hold 1 & 3 on the remote keypad to activate the panic, this will give you a full alarm condition
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On 26/05/2020 at 21:02, Sideshow said:
Hi, After some help.
I have 10 year old Eurosec alarm system, and when i went to change the internal battery i noticed a loose Blue wire, which i believe is the Trigger wire from the external alarm?.
Any idea were this should connect to? I have also noticed that the external alarm has stopped working.
If you want to keep your system operational I do hope you change your battery more often than once every 10years
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Hi, zone 7 factory setting is PA (personal attack), if this is not a pa zone then program it to what it is (12hr, EE etc)
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14 hours ago, Logan said:
I already got a euro 44 protecting my bed
Ive got a nice piece of 25mm galv conduit with female bush (not the wife's) on the end protecting mine
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Have you tried ringing technical?
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As above possible damage charging circuit.
If you don't know anything about these alarms with the greatest amount of respect should you (if you are a company) be touching them?
You may rectify the fault but there may be other issues within the system - you could give your customer a false sense of security thinking all is ok - not being funny when I say that just an observation
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Just now, datadiffusion said:
Blimey fair enough. I knew keypads were still going.
Years back I loved the 816 etc...
Probably a bit like everyone says they used to like Scanny
Yes defo a scanny fan back in the day, 9600 was my favourite
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7 hours ago, MrHappy said:
It would appear gt600 is still in production, new endstations or even pcbs are still there to purchase
Ripping it all out is going be pricey...
Defo still in production....
I actually quote like the 595 & 600 (don't slate me too much lol)
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24 minutes ago, bowlingman said:
Its 18.5v
AC voltage in seems about right & you say you have disconnected the battery
Have you power cycled it? (may be worth powering it off for a short duration then powering it back up)
If all that fails then I suspect its a faulty PCB.
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just out of interest have you measured the AC supply on to the pcb? Should be between 18 - 20VAC
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how long are the camera runs?
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Assuming its a coax based system and not CAT 5, can you review the cabling routes on the cameras with issues?
Do they run through any switch rroms?
Are the cables routed next to any LV / HV cables?
Communist fluorescent lights
in Members Lounge (Public)
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I wouldn’t mind but they cost an arm & a leg