Reddwarf4ever

Don’t think I am being ungrateful, but I had already cut the channel for the cable, having decided this was the best route, all I really wanted to know was the likelihood of mains interference causing spurious alarms, as the alarm cable is shielded. Wasn’t really looking for different ways to route the cable......thanks

The coving isn’t continuous, that’s the first idea I had, the installer used gripfill at intervals to stick it, so can’t do that.....a neat chisel along the wall should suffice, just hoped that interference wouldn’t be a problem ?

Not possible I am afraid, the alarm cable ,is 6 core Think only two,used for the PIR and it is the highest quality I could get so screening should be good.......suppose it’s fingers crossed than ?

Hello i am burying a PIR cable along the top of the wall, but there are cables from the light switch, will it be ok to run these close ?dont have any option really, but wonder if it could cause false alarms, there won’t be any power flowing at night or when out...but will obviously be live. thanks

Had to remove an old sounder, but several wires had been routed through the box, one wire was accidentally cut during the removal and the keypad next to it went blank and the alarm sounded.....put it into engineer mode & had the wire repaired....however now when trying to set the alarm it says CONFIRM DEVICES can I clear this using engineer mode ? many thanks

Thanks obviously you won’t be able to help me and the reply was a little terse.... but I will find a solution

Hi am in SS8 postcode, is that in your area ? What would you charge ( ball park ) to do what I need ? thanks

Thanks is there a way to search and PM a member ?

Hopefully someone could give me an idea of price for Essex, for what I need......

Which Pyronix is a wired system ?

Isn't the Pyronix euro mini@ wireless system ..? Need a wired system ....... assuming the Pyronix euro mini is a wired system, what should I expect to pay to fit the panel 2 keypads and 2 bellboxes to an existing wired system using existing PIRs and contacts thanks

Well waited over a week for the estimates and one finally materialised .......comes in at over £1000 this is to install a new control panel two keypads and two bell boxes......all wiring in place and re-using existing 8 PIRs and 3 contacts. this is too expensive for me......been told it’s for an Eaton, Scantronic ION system had a quick look and it seems this is a bit OTT for me, especially as trying to do on a budget. 40 Zones ??? i know I have 11 at the moment, but can reduce PIRs to get Down to 5 PIRs and 3 contacts, so an 8 Zone would be suitable. I know I have been told before I can’t chose the alarm system I want, as the installer will have a preference, but the Installer isn’t paying for it I am.....I would not like it if a car salesman could insist on what car I buy, or isn’t this a fair analogy ? so taking aside the installers preference, what’s my best choice to replace the Gardtec 840 wired system, replacing only the control panel 2 keypads and 2 bell boxes ? I would like to be able to configure / tweak the program, at some future time if I needed to. But don’t really need colour LCD etc.....Do I ? need some help please.......I could still go for just paying to remove the smokes, approx £100 I am told, but the alarm exit keypad occasionally displays “system in use” unless I wait 5 seconds after entering the exit code and pressing Exit now.....hasn’t happened once seen I adopted this method, BUT the control panel has a frigged PSU as the original failed......so all is not happy currently.........need to make a decision.....

Hello removing teh smoke alarms in the program didn’t work well.....the wiring removal at the panel involves resistors , so,out of my comfort zone. so I have put my hands up and waiting two estimates, may go for justbthis or an upgrade depending on the quote . i do a lot of DIY myself, but this has defeated me.....thanks for all the help and advice..

If it is the contaur 6 keypad, what year do you guess at ? i had an upgrade in 2003, don’t remember the keypads being changed, but who knows.....my memory doesn’t LOL if it had ACE would I then have a Fob ? Which I don’t have..... found the engineer contact remove procedure....... Enter engineer codePress yesProg zone yesProg zone type yesEnter zone number which is to be turned offPress noYesYesPress no until it says offPressYesPress 0/esc until you come out of engineer mode. Just need a way to identify the smoke connections in the control panel, I know the zone numbers, but don’t know if the zones are numbered in the control panel, or maybe there are special connections just for smokes.....now I can remove the zones in the program, just need to remove the cabling at the control panel any help please ?

Yes that’s the keypads...... can anyone one help me with the engineer sequence to remove and add zones ? P l e a s e have the manual, but the YES NO options get a bit confusing, I am capable, I am to programming, but just need a little help. thanks in advance... PS the displays are crystal clear.....and I am certain as I can be it was installed in 1987 as it was installed as the house was being built, which was in 1987......why does the year sound strange ???

Thanks i was previously planning to remove the smokes from the system myself and find a way t disconnect the cables. looks like I will pay for some help, but managed to remove the first smoke detector using engineer mode, but now can’t work out how to make it active again ( unremove it) can you help with the steps in engineer mode to a ode to activate this smoke again p l e a s e.....plus steps to remove contacts in engineer mode in case I need to remove PIR in the future......Risco said page 84 of the manual, but would be great if the steps to add a contact and remove a contact could be listed for me... thanks engineer mode Yes prigram zones Yes Enter zone number Tes this is where I need the steps p l e a s e..... incidently the gardtec 840 was installed 1987 and upgraded 2003 so the smokes are 16 years old it is hanging on, both the keypads have lost their front flip covers, the rear bellbox plastic is very fragile...and the control panel has had the PSU from the dialler jumped across , as the main control panel PSU blew....so its all working, just getting old.

Thanks i was previously planning to remove the smokes from the system myself and find a way t disconnect the cables. looks like I will pay for some help, but managed to remove the first smoke detector using engineer mode, but now can’t work out how to make it active again ( unremove it) can you help me with the steps in engineer mode to a ode to activate this smoke again p l e a s e

Do the aico ones have dual detection, heat plus ionising ? May consider replacing with mains ones, will see how much the alarm company want for them, but would prefer dual detection...... thanks

Hello my alarm system and Smoke detectors are 25 years old, I have been told max life for smokes is 7 years, that’s why I am removing them, I plan to fit standalone fire angel dual detection smoke alarms, as recommended by the fire brigade. currently deciding whether to replace a ‘ repaired’ control panel, two keypads & two wired bell boxes .....and keeping the existing hall sounder 8 PIR’s and 3 contacts... because if I have the control panel replaced, the smokes will be removed in the process and save paying for the smokes to be removed now and later an Upgrade...... this is from my original install company ( who charge £200 / Hr ) The Main control panel we now use is a Pyronix Euro 46 8 zone control panel, For a Pyronix Euro 46 panel, keypad and battery you are looking at £300 fitted, extra keypads cost £80, Live bell boxes cost £120 Everything is plus VAT......so would be £620 plus VAT. = £744.....( looking at the wording, there may be extra labour to fit the extra keypad and bell boxes, starting to get expensive ) still waiting for the quote from the other alarm company who charge £85 / Hr....this company got me out of trouble once by repairing a blown PSU in my control panel.....wasn’t very expensive as I remember....and done some tidying of the programming......stopped part set making so many beeps before activating etc etc....so,I trust them.

Sent a long reply, which I assume needs moderating before it’s posted. have contacted a different alarm company, who helped me out some years ago when the PSU failed on the main board and a repair was made. he is coming Monday, £75 + VAT for an hour, which he said will be ample time to remove the zones and remove the wiring from the alarm panel......job done.....I am sure it’s not beyond me, but can’t fund the option in engineer mode to remove the zones, so will bite the bullet and pay to have it done. thanks for all the advice....

Removing Zones (Master & Main codes only) If programmed by the installation company individual zones may be removed, this may only be done by a Master or Main level of code. It should be noted that if an Area Main code is being used, only zones associated with that area may be removed. 1) With the display showing:- 2) Enter a Master or Main level code, the display will show:- (User Names on 816 & 840 Only) 3) Press NO, the display will show:- 4) Press YES, the display will show:- 5) Enter the zone number you wish to remove followed by YES (pressing NO will 'un-remove' a zone), the display will show:- 6) Repeat step 5 until you have removed all the required zones. 7) Press 0 to escape, the display will show:- 8) Press YES, the continuous exit tone will sound. 9) Exit the premises via the authorised exit route ( the exit tone will change as detectors are violated). When the premises are secure listen that the exit tone returns to the continuous tone. Wait until the exit tone finishes before leaving. Note: Zone remove is only effective for the one set. so the procedure seems straightforward enough, bit what does the line above mean ? Does it mean this is only temporary ?

Sorry that answer didn’t really address my concerns Hi i have the engineer,installation & user manuals, so will be able to remove the required zones, although if anyone knows the exact steps to remove zones would save me trawling through the manuals. as I need to physically remove the smoke alarms from the ceiling , to replace with standalone smoke alarms, I need to isolate or terminate the power supplies to each. unless I can easily determine where on the panel the power supplies are taken from, I plan to remove each alarm in turn and terminate the cabling with a connecting block or tape them up and push the cable into the ceiling space through the existing hole. Once done, I can then remove them from the programming. i am not just being a cheapskate, but am a pensioner on a very low budget and certainly can’t afford £200 Hr which the installer company want to charge me, worse still they can’t give me any idea of the time it will take......bit like a blank cheque . so hopefully someone can read what I need to do and advise me. thank you in advance

Hi i want to remove the 8 smoke alarms I have wire to the system, they are long out of date and want to replace them with standalone smoke alarms. i will need to disconnect them from the alarm panel and most likely from the program via the keypad. i have the engineer code, wonder if it’s obvious where the smoke alarm connections would be as a starting point. thanks PS the alarm manual says the smoke detectors at zones 12-16 inclusive

What’s the point of this forum, if you say no point in giving advice because everyone will have their own preferences.... but it isn’t THAT the whole point, healthy discussion. thanks anyway, will research elsewhere........ That’s what discussion means, we discuss weigh up pros and cons......maybe just let google decide for me LOL