GalaxyGuy
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Posts posted by GalaxyGuy
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Needs to be multi-site. So at least two separate systems in different buildings - preferably different areas with different power/network infrastructure. The systems also need maintenance to ensure they are patched and have no issues.
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Are you saying that zone 1002 is ok, or that you swapped the zones over ?
The values are out of range. Ie. 836 Ohms is too low. Moisture in the cabling / sensor, wrong resistors, additional resistors Etc ? You need to fault find the reason for 836 ohms on a 1k/2k circuit. When the detector is activated, it's opening the contact bringing the circuit into the 900 to 1200 ohms range and not 2k.
Are you sure the detector doesn't have integral resistors and you're adding more in parallel ?
Zone closed needs to be between 900 to 1.2k ohms (best 1k). Open between 1.3k and 3.5k ohm (best 2k).
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What's the resistance with respect to 0v on the zone wire with the zone wire removed from the panel screw terminal? With the zone wire removed from the terminal does it show any voltage (DC or AC) on the wire when measured against 0v?
Next step is to swap zones and see if the problem remains or follows the wired devices. If it remains, replace the PCB. If it follows the wiring, then further investigation of the sensors and wiring is required.
The Dimension firmware was changed at some point to only log marginal low/high res to the engineer log, so not surprising that these are not being reported to the arc.
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No problem. The radio features of the Galaxy are poorly documented. I don't think I've seen it written anywhere what the fob led sequences actually mean. Perhaps I should put together a one pager.
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If the heartbeat isn't present, it doesn't matter. The important parts are the ports and message protocol. Set to UDP outgoing port 10002 and Microtech protocol.
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Which options are you missing? SelfMon also works on the older G3 panels with firmware before the Dimension was even born, so it should be working with your panel. Just let me know what's missing and I will advise.
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Resistances with respect to ground and each other can be measured with power off. Anything sub 600 Ohms needs further investigation.
You can look at RS485 data with a scope to ensure that the lines aren't stuck, but makes more sense if you look at the TTL output of one of the RS485 transceiver chips. The resistances may be something for on-site work and the scope for the bench.
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Not sure if that's true about the firmware version, but would need to load old firmware to validate. Its normally the module firmware version that's the issue and not the panel. Honeywell's support is basically a database these days!
Try the SelfMon.co.uk and virtualkeypad app. They're likely to work and if they don't, I'll be able to tell you exactly what's going wrong as I wrote all the underlying code.
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As above. Also check diagnostics menu 61 and ensure comm's remain at 100%. If wiring and voltage is okay, then replace the RIO.
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On 27/11/2017 at 10:21, Hants said:
I have just fitted a Galaxy Flex 50 in my house, and it seems to be up and running.
I would be very grateful for some pointers to resolve a few minor snags.
I have a radio fob. Is it capable of doing a Night Set? - Rather than the Part Set.
(It will be convenient to use this indoors in the evening - Otherwise, I suppose, I can make the Part and Night identical.)
I have put an internal siren/speaker by the front door, so I can hear the setting sounds as I leave the house. The keypad is deeper inside the house.
I am not hearing the setting sounds on the speaker. I had expected this to duplicate the sounds from the keypad.
Have I missed a setting? Any suggestions for fault finding if it's in the wiring?
Thanks
Robert
Thinking back to this post while looking at the RF portal on the Flex+ 50 V3.39 today. If you have a TCC8 fob, then pressing the lightbulb icon button will night set the Flex.
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Only TCP port 10001 needs opened if you've opted to open a port. Other ports are outgoing.
What do you mean by 'nothing happens' ? No push message from the app?
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You need to connect to your home network by VPN or port forward. Port forward is easier to set up, but not advisable as a secure solution.
If your broadband account does not offer a static IP address, you will need to use a dynamic DNS provider to resolve your WAN IP address in order to connect back to your home router.
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2 hours ago, scrimshanker said:
galaxy guy,
could you elaborate why you wouldn't touch the Le Sucre?
is it because once fitted the only money maker is the two year subscription or is it just a little ***** and doesn't really work?
All the Honeywell wireless products are designed in France. The documentation and support is dreadful.
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2 minutes ago, scrimshanker said:
Did have, but the local depot is a bit *****.
Im a Galaxy guy at heart, tried texecom as a domestic panel as it's now totally wireless and used visonic before that. The le sucre looks like the new domestic panel for what I want as I'm not really interested in being ssaib/nsi
never even come across the flex panel as yet
The Flex was brought in as a reduced cost option for domestic / small business market. It includes Dimension firmware features, but is limited as far as number of zones/busses go. Plastic case allowing for internal RF module. Also supports click-in module mounting and energy efficient switched mode PSU that can be hard wired or plugged in to a wall socket. Range now includes Flex+ supporting Grade 3. At boot time, the Flex+ panel gives Grade 2/3 choice. Metal cased Flex also introduced - presumably as a replacement for the G2 which will eventually end-of-life.
Wouldn't touch the le-sucre range.
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No, there's no wireless option for the Galaxy range. Best to hard wire it anyway.
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You never mentioned a tamper on 1001, so unless that zone is not being used, then no resistor required there. You aren't shorting the zones, you're just setting the zone permanently closed by placing 1k across the zone to ground (0v). Zones that are 1k are closed. Zones at 2k are open. On the G2, any higher or lower resistances are tamper. The resistance boundaries are in the manual. Here's the zones info for your G2:
On the left block (RIO 0) zones are:
1001
1002
1003
1004
On the right hand block (RIO1) zones are:
1011
1012
1013
1014 - Resistor to 0v
1015 - Resistor to 0v
1016 - Resistor to 0v
1017 - Resistor to 0v
1018 - Resistor to 0v
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44 minutes ago, Olympus_Jim said:
Hi all,
Thanks for all the replies.
I would be happy to programme the circuits as Spare in the panel, however, I have assigned these '00 - Not Active' driven from 52.1 in the Menu, but this has no effect upon the Tamper error messages.
With regards to the resistors, I am happy to do this, however, I do not understand what 'zones' to put the resistors in.
The Wireless RF module is connected through the RS485 terminals (not the zone terminals).
So, on the G2-20 panel, I have 12 zone terminals, how do I work out which of these terminal connections will short zones 1014,1015,1016,1017 and 1018.
Apologies if I am missing something obvious.
James
'Not Used' and 'Spare' are different options. Not used is for ignoring the zone activation when in full, part or night setting mode. Spare is a global setting across all three modes and causes the system to ignore everything about the zone. Ie. if a spare zone is in tamper it will be ignored. If a not active zone is in tamper, it will report tamper. Adding a single resistor across the zone is recommended, but isn't really necessary. There isn't any hysteresis of the input, as it's already pulled to a level by the internal part of the double balanced circuit and not just floating around causing additional noise.
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I've not seen a zone fault auto omit without also indicating the fault with the zone and asking for confirmation. Assuming that the resistances showing on the panel bang on 1k/2k when you press the hash key. It's a strange one.
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It's unlikely to work due to the gap mode packet termination used in the protocol. If it did work, then any hiccup with the network would cause a module tamper.
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So, two possibilities? It's either a faulty PCB, or some (corrupt) setting that you're re-loading in with RSS after defaulting. I would try loading the config on a test panel and ensuring that it's not something being held in the config before going through the hassle of replacing the panel PCB. May be worth having a look at the RSS roll-back points and checking the diffs.
If you want to duplicate the site in RSS, then change the PIN's to default and send the mdb file to me, I can load onto a test panel here in my office and quickly check it for you if you want. I have all Dimension variants plumbed in and sitting on test at the moment.
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Have you gone ahead and let the system set with the omitted zone?
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Does changing the battery in the dimension panel resolve the issue? Don't assume the same fault - it may be the battery. The Dimension power circuitry is a decent design.
If the panel is mounted in an area with poor ventilation, the temperature inside will be elevated and the battery lifetime reduced.
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3 hours ago, al-yeti said:
Dude what you on about
He's got the role jumpers still in and using resistors , unless I confused , but if not you need to start again
Instructions far to messy
I hadn't seen the jumpers when I seen this on my phone - sorry. They are wrong anyway. The second jumper block is set to pins 5+6 and should be 1+2.
When using the built-in EOL resistors:
At the panel:
+12v to brown.
0v at the zone to blue.
The zone input to green.
At the sensor, connect:
Brown to +12v
Blue to 0v. Now loop a wire from 0v in the sensor and connect it to NC.
Connect the green wire to T2.
The instructions are in English and made sense to me.
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You need to start again with the wiring. It's too messy. Solid cores are too brittle too. Spend £15 on alarm cable.
Connect three cores only at the panel. Say:
+12v - brown
0v at the zone - blue
The zone input - green.
At the sensor, connect
Brown to +12v
Blue to 0v. Now loop a wire from 0v in the sensor and connect it to NC.
Connect a 1k resistor from NC to C
Connect another resistor between C and T1.
Connect the green wire to T2.
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Texecom Comwifi
in !!..DIY Installers..!!
Posted
OP - It sounds very much like your router does not support NAT Loopback. NAT Loopback allows connection to your own external WAN IP address from inside your private network. Check your router documentation to see if there's a setting. Other than that, you will need to switch addresses depending on which network you're on.
Take a look at my Honeywell VKP app manual, as it explains this on the second last page. I don't know if Texecom mention this anywhere, but it's a very common issue.
https://www.sm-alarms.co.uk/manuals/selfmon_iosvkp_v2.pdf