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Evening all Shunt locks Can't find anything about a "graded" shunt lock We don't fit them, (well I have but donkeys years ago) but have one on a current takeover Presume this calls up Does this calls up an existing BS4737 standard or something in 50131? I can't seem to see anything about locks though BS8243 permits a shunt lock for completion of setting - but wondering where we are in terms of component grade? Many thanks

Nearly all panels are user friendly, nearly everyone here will have their favorite I dont user Texe or Pyronix but they are popular panels

Hi everyone, I’m setting up a small office and need advice on choosing a reliable and easy-to-use control panel for basic security needs. We’ll have a few indoor cameras, door sensors, and maybe a small access control system. It’s not a large setup, but I want something secure and user-friendly, especially for staff who aren’t very tech-savvy. I’ve looked into a few options like Texecom and Pyronix, but I’m still unsure what’s best for a small environment. Are there any systems that offer good mobile app support and easy configuration? Also, on a side note, I’ve been learning data visualization to better understand security patterns and found a helpful online. It’s great for analyzing logs and activity trends, so I thought others here might find it useful too. Would love to hear your recommendations on control panels and any lessons learned from similar installs. Thanks in advance! Best regards, D Paulsen No links in posts please please read the forum guidelines https://www.thesecurityinstaller.co.uk/community/guidelines/

Hey @monena, It sounds like you're dealing with persistent tamper alerts on your wireless door/window sensors after your renovation. Even though you've replaced the batteries, there are a few other factors that might be causing this issue: Tamper Switch Alignment: Ensure that the tamper switches on the sensors are properly engaged. If the sensor covers aren't seated correctly, the system might interpret this as a tamper condition. Physical Mounting: Check that the sensors are securely mounted. Loose fittings or misaligned magnets can trigger false tamper alerts!! Environmental Factors: Since you've had a renovation, it's possible that environmental changes (like new materials or layouts) are affecting the sensors' performance. For instance, certain materials can interfere with wireless signals, leading to communication issues that the system might interpret as tampering. Sensor Quality: Sometimes, the quality of the sensors themselves can be a factor. If the sensors are older or of lower quality, they might be more prone to false tamper alerts. If you've checked all these and the issue persists, it might be worth consulting with a professional to inspect the system. They can provide a more in-depth analysis and suggest potential replacements if necessary. Hope this helps!

Its a two year old thread I doubt that he will reply. In answer to your question. In most cases hard wired detectors are compatible with any brand of panel, you will most likely have to change end of line resistors along with the panel.

Hi Noyfb2023 just wanted to check if you successfully managed to change from the eurosec cp8l to the pyronix 46 with t the existing cabling wiring sensors etc.

As JW stated the charging rate is in the standard. Larger premier panels have a charging rate selection jumper so you can adjust the rate depending on the battery and make sure it conforms.

When I replaced the 12V 7Ah battery in my Texecom panel, it took around 24 hours to fully charge. Most panels trickle charge at a low rate, so it’s normal for it to take a while. Just make sure your panel isn’t showing any battery fault after a day or so..if it is, double check the connections or battery health.

If you keep pressing the info/OK button it should run through the faults. If the faults are clear it will let you arm/disarm to clear.

Hi all, I’ve got a Visonic PowerMaster 10 panel and after a recent power cut, it’s showing a “system not ready” message and won’t arm. I’ve checked the battery and power supply, and everything seems fine now. Is there a reset process I need to follow or something I might be missing? Cheers!

Or get better equipment

It is usually me that gets it wrong, I read it quite a few times too, couldn't believe I was right for once

open then then close the door after replacing the lid (if you have the lid on properly?)

Plastics?

Hello Everyone, After a very long renovation and subsequent complete rewiring of the alarm system, I have returned to activating the lightsys alarm. Unfortunately, however, some door opening detection sensors, connected via radio, continuously give the tamper alarm. In particular, 3 sensors out of 9 have this problem. What could have happened? I have already changed all the battery. Thanks for your availability. Best regards Simone

I suppose it makes a change from the gay jokes

dementia, quite common at your age....

I cant believe I missed that I went back and re read it as well just to be sure

You are not reading what he typed correctly he typed "with the panel and sensors pulling 0.55 A" Now there was no mention of mA so 0.55A no matter how you try to dress that up is slightly over half an amp. He may have made a mistake but either way what he typed is 0.55A not 0.055A which would be 55mA

Theres 1000 mA to an amp not 100 550mA would be half an amp (well over half an amp)

So I'm thinking this low measurement could be due to voltage drop on the connecting leads (which could amount to a few tenths of a volt at that current). The panel will only measure voltage at the board during a load test.. Next step is to check voltage at the actual terminals of the battery.

if the float charge is only 22 mA, it could take more than 24 to fully charge the battery, depending on its initial charge state. It is a 7 Ah battery.

I've got 5 PIRs (older ones so current consumption might be higher than newer ones). Also 6 shock sensors, a wired bell and two wired keypads. That's 14 devices (and there's also the panel itself that has to be powered), so if they're pulled a few tens of milliamps, it could add up. I'd have to check all the specs to see what the current consumption is.

So I left it for 3 days and performed a longer test this time. After ten minutes pulling 0.55 A, voltage stabilised at 11.9 V. (it was at 11.9 V after around 2 minutes).