All Content

Hi All, I'm new to this so I'm not sure if I'm in the right place or not. Sorry this may be a bit long winded but I'm trying to answer all possible questions before they are asked. I've moved into a ex family members house and I'm tracing wires that are no longer connected at one end. I came across an alarm wire that used to have a door magnet attached to it which triggered when the door was opened. However this wire no longer has the magnets connected due to the door no longer being there (it was to a shed that has been removed) the ends have been isolated and the cable has been coiled up out of the way. I have been able to trace the wire and remove it from the alarm box with the help of an electrician, however once the power was restored to the alarm it set up a fault which I found out to be an issue with the back up battery. I have replaced the battery, however I have lost my "unique" alarm password. I found the user manual (see link) which has the engineers code in but it refers to a "User Guide". https://www.manualslib.com/manual/2801115/Nexus-8.html?page=9#manual When I google "nexus 8 alarm user guide" I get the following information User Guide but this doesn't seem to tell me how to reset my pass code. Does anyone know where I can find the user guide that gives me this information or can someone give me step-by-step instructions as to how I can reset this please as currently I'm without an alarm as I don't know what the factory default code is so my electrician has turned the power off to the main alarm so it doesn't activate while I'm at work and it can't be shut off. Thanks in advance to anyone who can help with resetting my pass code.

the battery has been fitted the wrong way, replace the item

Change contact?

Hi, I’ve got a Risco Agility (not the Agility 3 it’s just the original one) RW132KP. I’ve got 3 RWT92P’s and 1 RWT72i. the alarm in question is in a shed type thing where we do construction stuff, I’ve also got one in my house with the same bundle and haven’t had any issues! how to I fix the problem of the RWT72i draining through battery’s and getting hot? When I say drawing through fast I mean like in a couple of hours! please help! (The installer company is Sky Security Solutions Ltd.)

Chubb

shunt as in a chubb lock ? or- or

thanks James what’s your thoughts on the following? Existing policed system supposed to be grade 3 (not a chance it is imo) Anyway, Galaxy Area on a wing in a Statley Home is being armed / disarmed by this shunt lock alone No local sounders - only one entry exit into the area via this door with the shunt fitted. Currently programmed as keyswitch - 5 second exit. Only one Keypad fitted which is in the main body of the house I’m think this area should have two stage arming - lock programming changed to final - area changed to final set with a local sounder to confirm setting. Keypad then fitted inside the protected area to facilitate disarm on entry - as the lock now programmed as final will disable confirmation on entry Or, am I over thinking it?

If there isn't a standard in the suite then you do indeed use the previous std.

Evening all Shunt locks Can't find anything about a "graded" shunt lock We don't fit them, (well I have but donkeys years ago) but have one on a current takeover Presume this calls up Does this calls up an existing BS4737 standard or something in 50131? I can't seem to see anything about locks though BS8243 permits a shunt lock for completion of setting - but wondering where we are in terms of component grade? Many thanks

Nearly all panels are user friendly, nearly everyone here will have their favorite I dont user Texe or Pyronix but they are popular panels

Hi everyone, I’m setting up a small office and need advice on choosing a reliable and easy-to-use control panel for basic security needs. We’ll have a few indoor cameras, door sensors, and maybe a small access control system. It’s not a large setup, but I want something secure and user-friendly, especially for staff who aren’t very tech-savvy. I’ve looked into a few options like Texecom and Pyronix, but I’m still unsure what’s best for a small environment. Are there any systems that offer good mobile app support and easy configuration? Also, on a side note, I’ve been learning data visualization to better understand security patterns and found a helpful online. It’s great for analyzing logs and activity trends, so I thought others here might find it useful too. Would love to hear your recommendations on control panels and any lessons learned from similar installs. Thanks in advance! Best regards, D Paulsen No links in posts please please read the forum guidelines https://www.thesecurityinstaller.co.uk/community/guidelines/

Hey @monena, It sounds like you're dealing with persistent tamper alerts on your wireless door/window sensors after your renovation. Even though you've replaced the batteries, there are a few other factors that might be causing this issue: Tamper Switch Alignment: Ensure that the tamper switches on the sensors are properly engaged. If the sensor covers aren't seated correctly, the system might interpret this as a tamper condition. Physical Mounting: Check that the sensors are securely mounted. Loose fittings or misaligned magnets can trigger false tamper alerts!! Environmental Factors: Since you've had a renovation, it's possible that environmental changes (like new materials or layouts) are affecting the sensors' performance. For instance, certain materials can interfere with wireless signals, leading to communication issues that the system might interpret as tampering. Sensor Quality: Sometimes, the quality of the sensors themselves can be a factor. If the sensors are older or of lower quality, they might be more prone to false tamper alerts. If you've checked all these and the issue persists, it might be worth consulting with a professional to inspect the system. They can provide a more in-depth analysis and suggest potential replacements if necessary. Hope this helps!

Its a two year old thread I doubt that he will reply. In answer to your question. In most cases hard wired detectors are compatible with any brand of panel, you will most likely have to change end of line resistors along with the panel.

Hi Noyfb2023 just wanted to check if you successfully managed to change from the eurosec cp8l to the pyronix 46 with t the existing cabling wiring sensors etc.

As JW stated the charging rate is in the standard. Larger premier panels have a charging rate selection jumper so you can adjust the rate depending on the battery and make sure it conforms.

When I replaced the 12V 7Ah battery in my Texecom panel, it took around 24 hours to fully charge. Most panels trickle charge at a low rate, so it’s normal for it to take a while. Just make sure your panel isn’t showing any battery fault after a day or so..if it is, double check the connections or battery health.

If you keep pressing the info/OK button it should run through the faults. If the faults are clear it will let you arm/disarm to clear.

Hi all, I’ve got a Visonic PowerMaster 10 panel and after a recent power cut, it’s showing a “system not ready” message and won’t arm. I’ve checked the battery and power supply, and everything seems fine now. Is there a reset process I need to follow or something I might be missing? Cheers!

Or get better equipment

It is usually me that gets it wrong, I read it quite a few times too, couldn't believe I was right for once

open then then close the door after replacing the lid (if you have the lid on properly?)

Plastics?

Hello Everyone, After a very long renovation and subsequent complete rewiring of the alarm system, I have returned to activating the lightsys alarm. Unfortunately, however, some door opening detection sensors, connected via radio, continuously give the tamper alarm. In particular, 3 sensors out of 9 have this problem. What could have happened? I have already changed all the battery. Thanks for your availability. Best regards Simone

I suppose it makes a change from the gay jokes

dementia, quite common at your age....