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Greetings from Australia

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  • Author
5 hours ago, GalaxyGuy said:

The wiring in the sensor picture is correct.  The zone resistance option (which is the default) is 1k Fault (BAL).  This is option 9 on the keypad.  

 

The wiring in the zone schematic is wrong, to match what you have in the sensor, there is also a resistor going across the zone contacts in parallel.  Where you have the two half dots.   This means when the zone is open the circuit resistance is 2k and when closed it is 1k.

 

Thanks for the update. Yes, you are absolutely correct. Gaining access to the reed switches isn't an option right now (future plans to replace), so the best I can come up with might be below...

DoorZoneWiringv1.jpg.f6924f071b92e269180340c5f2ee4ebc.jpg

Or I could use the wiring below...

DoorZoneWiringv2.jpg.40e7e2dd79abf4c9f853b269cf846bb9.jpg

Obviously neither is ideal... but for now perhaps the only option?

 

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  • james.wilson
    james.wilson

    you will need a relay as norm or common the negs

  • sixwheeledbeast
    sixwheeledbeast

    Transistorised. Handy Little Relay, Bentley or Interface Solutions are some brands we get here. Not sure were you would shoehorn these in mind you, as for our standards it should be within t

Posted Images

It will work but won't have any tamper protection 

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  • Author
7 minutes ago, james.wilson said:

It will work but won't have any tamper protection 

Hi James... yes, it's a rubbish solution... but I figure having something is better than nothing. 

 

In your view, is one of the diagrams above better than the other... or both the same?

well the top one wont work both resistors would need to be at the panel

 and one of them in series with the reeds

but even then your asking me would i prefer a 6 inch nail or a 4 inch nail in my foot if you see what i mean

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  • Author
3 minutes ago, james.wilson said:

well the top one wont work both resistors would need to be at the panel

 and one of them in series with the reeds

but even then your asking me would i prefer a 6 inch nail or a 4 inch nail in my foot if you see what i mean

Yep... completely agree. I figured it was bad option 1 or bad option 2 ?

 

Appreciate your thinking.

in fact looking again neither will work 

Have you got NO or NC reeds?

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  • Author
1 hour ago, james.wilson said:

in fact looking again neither will work 

Have you got NO or NC reeds?

So when the door is closed the the reed is closed. As in the magnet causes the reed to be closed. So if the magnet is not there then the reed is open.

  • Author
3 hours ago, james.wilson said:

in fact looking again neither will work 

Have you got NO or NC reeds?

 

As an FYI... I wired a single zone as below...

DoorZoneWiringv2.jpg.733753474fe749974940867ac5e40287.jpg

And set the FX100+ for just that zone to be 1K N/O (EOL) and it might be working? But I want to do some testing to be sure.

 

My old system would tell me when a zone was open or closed, but I haven't figured out how to get that working on the FX100+ yet.

 

  • Author
1 hour ago, Grego said:

 

As an FYI... I wired a single zone as below...

DoorZoneWiringv2.jpg.733753474fe749974940867ac5e40287.jpg

And set the FX100+ for just that zone to be 1K N/O (EOL) and it might be working? But I want to do some testing to be sure.

 

My old system would tell me when a zone was open or closed, but I haven't figured out how to get that working on the FX100+ yet.

 

I've done several trials, and here's what I've found. I wired as per the picture below...

DoorZoneWiringv3.jpg.47496eebb412c8c51d6d07e68fc35f94.jpg

And configured the zone as 0ohm N/C and the chime now works when the door is opened. So, it might be working, I am not sure? This config is the only trial that resulted in the chime when the door is opened.

 

Didn't know there was an option for non eol on a galaxy. 

To display the diagnostics go into the display zones menu it will show in there

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