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SAB Module


Gabs

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18 hours ago, sixwheeledbeast said:

Would normally be a single -ve applied for the trig.

I was going to do that, butt thought it would be a little easier to use the + and -, I could keep everything positively charged inc the siren, and then I would be able to make it a neg trigger, but since I have terminal block in sets of 2, the full on + and - should do, just use an extra core. 

 

18 hours ago, MrHappy said:

 

never seen anything or heard of this co. before, however

 

 01297445    REVDUN ELECTRONICS LIMITED          Dissolved 22/05/1993
 01907384    REVDUN SECURITY PRODUCTS LTD.    Dissolved 06/11/1990

 

Google throws up your topic on here about a panel & a linkdin page which say they where in Birmingham ?

 

 

 

I remember that, it works with the panel, which I still have. It is good, for an early panel, all hand-etched boards in it :) 

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2 hours ago, Gabs said:

I was going to do that, butt thought it would be a little easier to use the + and -, I could keep everything positively charged inc the siren, and then I would be able to make it a neg trigger, but since I have terminal block in sets of 2, the full on + and - should do, just use an extra core.

 

So no anti-tamper protection?

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11 minutes ago, sixwheeledbeast said:

 

So no anti-tamper protection?

The idea was just for a microswitch to go straight to to SCB of my Accenta panel, I could route it through my SAB module, but it would just be two tracks, from one terminal block to another. Could be done with standard 6 core wire, too. 

2 for the Tamper

2 for the Hold Off voltage

2 for the Siren 

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3 minutes ago, sixwheeledbeast said:

Most alarms send a -ve back to the panel via a microswitch (hence the phrase "tamper return").

Either way IMO it would make sense for the field wiring to terminate to the PCB (for service and fitting reasons) even if you are just soldering a microswitch off the back.

 I will just do that, then. I can solder one straight to the board. The dilemma still lies in the battery charging circuit, I think a 1 watt resistor would do, constantly powering the battery until it is needed, that is why ideally I have an SAB module to copy the circuit from, and understand how it would be charged. Was going to see if I could get it to work with this, once I have built it :) http://www.zen22142.zen.co.uk/ronj/sh.html

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25 minutes ago, Gabs said:

The idea was just for a microswitch to go straight to to SCB of my Accenta panel, I could route it through my SAB module, but it would just be two tracks, from one terminal block to another. Could be done with standard 6 core wire, too. 

2 for the Tamper

2 for the Hold Off voltage

2 for the Siren 

 

Four core & 

 

+

_

Tamper Return

- Bell Trigger

 

Would have how the Module would have been fitted back in the 80's ?

Mr th2.jpg Veritas God

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7 minutes ago, MrHappy said:

 

Four core & 

 

+

_

Tamper Return

- Bell Trigger

 

Would have how the Module would have been fitted back in the 80's ?

Might have been, taken any of them down recently? I would try to design the circuit like that, just don't want to damage my panel, if it goes wrong. I have built a few Security-Related circuits recently, Don't know anywhere that would sell old stock SABs 

IMG_3822.thumb.jpeg.cbfbe5f67c3aa454d7ef744b326bef9b.jpeg

 

 

 

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8 minutes ago, MrHappy said:

modules started to become old hat in early 90's when interga's ect came to the market

 

castle-sabt-pak.jpg

 

with 20min cut off timer (£10 but out stock)

Shame it is out of stock. Looks quite advanced for one. I will just have to try trial and error for my design, I have one, but it would only be one time use, as it wouldn't be charged up again 

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All the SAB modules I used in the past where dipped, surprised to see one without.

Should have a 15 minutes cut off to conform, you don't want the council charging you for getting a summons to silence your bell.

 

The basic circuits on Ron's site are not designed to connect to intruder style bells, maybe adapt the circuit so the relay contact sinks a -ve via the alarm panel when coil is active?

The other feature bells have is they self activate when the tamper is opened (hence the term Self Activating Bell).

 

If you are going basic with the charging you could use a LM317T to set the voltage then use a 1 Watt resistor in series like you say. Issue being it will only keep the battery "a float" while the battery is charged.

To charge a battery that has been drained you ideally need a constant current with a higher voltage than operational voltage; it would take forever or may not fully recharge otherwise.

 

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