goncall Posted January 13, 2014 Share Posted January 13, 2014 James!!! Ill have a look in the same smoke detector I wired to the scantronic and then apply the same principle to the resistors as you mention for the shock. 1-+ 2-0v 3&4 zone connections Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gixerlad Posted January 13, 2014 Author Share Posted January 13, 2014 Thanks guys for all your help!! Seems to be all A OK so far! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gixerlad Posted January 14, 2014 Author Share Posted January 14, 2014 A couple of issues have arisen and hopefully this will finalise things. It will not let me exit engineer mode.According to the manual this is because there are issues to resolve.(Enter code the esc) It lists two faults. 1.) One is just the word Bell with no + or - by it. On the bell terminal in the control panel I have the negative terminal from a sound bomb and the positive terminal from the sound bomb goes to one of the aux + points. It does show this as acceptable in a drawing in the manual and says a "bell" can be connected in this way without a resistor being included. The sounder works perfectly. Goes off in an alarm situation and does not go off at any other time. Would anyone have any thoughts why it is insisting there is a bell issue. There are no other wires any any of the other bell output connections. 2.) The smoke detector is wired as per the instructions and as per the kind link provided above, When the smoke detector is not connected to the base then all is fine but when it is it also shows up in the fault area with the bell as a tamper problem. Remove the detector from the base and the fault goes. So a bit stuck. Any help much appreciated. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gixerlad Posted January 14, 2014 Author Share Posted January 14, 2014 Perhaps should have said, do not want to use the ADT bell box as an internal sounder and a dialler will do. So guess the system is spotting there is no ADT box and letting me know, perhaps the better question is what is needed to fool it into thinking there is no tamper issue with a box that is not there. To update the smoke detector. No resistors at all and it shows as a tamper issue. Fit resistor across 3 and 4 and then tamper only shows if detector is connected to the base. I have the zone programmed as intruder as there is no fire option which I thought was odd as there is one in the guide, but it does not come up in the menu. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datadiffusion Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 Perhaps should have said, do not want to use the ADT bell box as an internal sounder and a dialler will do. So guess the system is spotting there is no ADT box and letting me know, perhaps the better question is what is needed to fool it into thinking there is no tamper issue with a box that is not there. To update the smoke detector. No resistors at all and it shows as a tamper issue. Fit resistor across 3 and 4 and then tamper only shows if detector is connected to the base. I have the zone programmed as intruder as there is no fire option which I thought was odd as there is one in the guide, but it does not come up in the menu. Here is how you need to wire the base... you will need a terminal block (single) and sleeving to do it right with the M12 Wire 1------------------------------[RESISTOR]-----------------------------[TERMINAL 3] * * [Fit another resistor ACROSS terminals 3 and 4] * * Wire 2---------------------------------------------------------------------------[TERMINAL 4] As for fire in the menu, I only ever take this model out but perchance it is only available on a certain zone, i.e. 8?? So, I've decided to take my work back underground.... to stop it falling into the wrong hands Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gixerlad Posted January 14, 2014 Author Share Posted January 14, 2014 Thank you very much for that Alan... I mean datafusion! I will give that a shot. I did wonder about the specific zone so looked at 8 and it was not there though will check again and I will also go and make sure 6 and 7 is not there, as I just skipped straight to 8 to look. Thanks again! I shall go and fiddle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datadiffusion Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 Ah ha! So, I've decided to take my work back underground.... to stop it falling into the wrong hands Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gixerlad Posted January 15, 2014 Author Share Posted January 15, 2014 hmm well the fun and games continue. I have sorted the bell issue by putting a wire from the T in the bell to the 0- terminal and that is great so the last issue is this smoke detector. I did as you kindly drew and there is a new issue with it. As I have solved the bell problem it will now come out of engineering mode and is working brilliantly but whilst the smoke alarm is connected, when you go to set the alarm in either user or engineer mode, it just says 5 intruder and fire underneath and will not allow the system to set. When I remove the wiring for the smoke alarm it all sets brilliantly. (I use intruder on the zone as fire is not an option) when programming the zone I read the manual and it said that option 5 in the relevant programming bit is fire but when I go through it on the system, option 5 that should say fire says unused. So the alarm seems to be different to the manual in this one and only respect, did look through the same zone info for all the zones 1 to 8 and they all have the same, option 5 saying unused not fire as it does in the booook. Am I being a complete idiot here and missing something very simple? Have tried various things but to no joy. The only other thing I notice is that when the smoke detector is wired in as per your instructions and I reconnect the battery you get a full alarm activation but when you just remove the detector and keep everything else the same and reconnect the battery you only get the horn and keypad sounding, not the "bell" not sure if that helps in any way. Also the only other thing I have done is bridge each unused zone with a resistor, so zone 5 shares one terminal with zone 6 so in zone 5 it has the two wires going to 3 and 4 on the smoke alarm and the second wire shares the slot with one of the legs from the resistor in zone 6. Any help much appreciated as I am a little stuck given the book is different to what I am actually seeing and there is no warning or messages it just simply identifies the zone and will not let the setting countdown begin. Thanks Ben. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goncall Posted January 15, 2014 Share Posted January 15, 2014 You could try type 5 fire the unused was just the descriptor on some commercial panels should stil act as a fire zone Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gixerlad Posted January 15, 2014 Author Share Posted January 15, 2014 Hi goncall, I did just on the off chance but the same result. Was just wondering if putting it on PA or something might be worth a shot as that would be full time. Cant harm to try I guess. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datadiffusion Posted January 15, 2014 Share Posted January 15, 2014 I should add I know next to nothing about these panels - I'm assuming a 1k/1k resistor is still needed on a fire zone? Not that you're able to make it a fire zone yet, but just a thought. So, I've decided to take my work back underground.... to stop it falling into the wrong hands Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matthew.brough Posted January 15, 2014 Share Posted January 15, 2014 I should add I know next to nothing about these panels - I'm assuming a 1k/1k resistor is still needed on a fire zone? yup www.securitywarehouse.co.uk/catalog/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gixerlad Posted January 15, 2014 Author Share Posted January 15, 2014 you guys know more than me and your help is much appreciated!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
9651 Posted January 15, 2014 Share Posted January 15, 2014 Thought 19 was fire? But 'blind' Certainly was on an 18? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goncall Posted January 15, 2014 Share Posted January 15, 2014 Thought 19 was fire? But 'blind' Certainly was on an 18? still is on a dimension Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james.wilson Posted January 15, 2014 Share Posted January 15, 2014 You need the 2 resistors as noted above on your smoke securitywarehouse Security Supplies from Security Warehouse Trade Members please contact us for your TSI vetted trade discount. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gixerlad Posted January 15, 2014 Author Share Posted January 15, 2014 All sorted and working bob-on so thank you all very much indeed for your help! Very helpful place indeed. I should probably have asked here about which model before buying one on ebay, but having no other experience of Galaxy products I had nothing to compare the programming menu to, so I did not find the programming side of things too much of a problem. Ignorance is bliss they say! I have only used alarm cable to connect the keypad to the control panel which I gather is a heinous crime for which I must punish myself MOST STRONGLY!! The keypad is only 2 foot from the panel in cable terms so I am going to risk it rather than using the recommended data cable. I will know to swap this out if much weirdness occurs! The whole point of this project was much cheapness so it all helps save the cost. If I had much dollar I would have got a pro to install a nice shinny new one with one of those touch screen panels... ooooooohhhhhhh.. Thank you all again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matthew.brough Posted January 15, 2014 Share Posted January 15, 2014 Your welcome. If you get one of those touch screens you will need to wire it in twin & earth it draws that much power Unscreened alarm cable on that run will be fine. www.securitywarehouse.co.uk/catalog/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gixerlad Posted January 15, 2014 Author Share Posted January 15, 2014 Ohh no, wont be buying one of those screens! Will wait till I get a prof installed version one day. Thanks though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gixerlad Posted January 15, 2014 Author Share Posted January 15, 2014 I thought I would post this info for confirmation / record should any other DIY'er wish to install Menvier M12 heat / smoke detector into a Galaxy 16+ control panel. So you hopefully do not have to read through this whole thread @ 3 pages. (Basically what James Wilson was kind enough to write for the shock sensor is of course the same for this, only I was being a bit slow and thick in working this out!) 1.)Connect One alarm wire to E block on detector base. 2.) Place 1 1k resistor leg also into E block on detector base. 3.) Then place other leg of this resistor into block 3. 4.) Then using a second resistor place that leg also in block 3. 5.) Place the other leg of this second resistor into block 4. 6.) Run other alarm wire from this block 4 also. (Make sure to use the correct screw/fastening point on each block in 3 and 4 as there is two on each. It will show you on the paperwork that came with your detector.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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