I guess its an old panel, a Scantronic 816, but a fault indication has appeared, Call Engineer - Battery missing. The existing battery appeared ok, checked the voltage but I bought a new one anyway to make sure. Still getting the same the error code. I cannot even access with the engineers code unless I clear the fault. Have checked the leads and terminals for continuity and corrosion and they appear ok. Any ideas gratefully received.............. thank you in advance......

Battery Fuse?

Is there a sequence to putting it back, ie lid tamper, battery, ac mains etc?

Have you checked the battery fuse ?

Remove mains from the system . Does the battery takeover?

Checking voltage on a battery doesn't mean a lot . It's th current that is important.

You saying it wont go into engineers?

You have the correct code ect?

Lwillis hes put a new batt in.

Think it needs power cycle

Edited May 18, 201313 yr by sjsturner

The fuse could be blown.

Try a power cycle.

The panel will need down powered and the powered up.

i did not use many 816's, but iircc from service calls, isn't there a big fat charge limiting resistor up near the regulator that burns out - 22 OHMS or so?

Hi,

 

Thanks for all the advice, it is much appreciated. There is no fuse on the battery output that I can see unless it is on the reverse of the pcb. 

 

After a war of attrition with the panel, many combinations, one of which was to disconnect the battery and mains, wedged a bit of cardboard into the lid tamper switch [fairly pointless in my case], left it for an hour, reconnected battery first, a.c. second, got into the engineers setting, reset and it worked after that. Bit pleased as I have 16 zones operational and a new panel would have been so expensive. I probably have worn out the keypad, but am most relieved it is going again. Just keep my fingers crossed.

 

Thank you all again......

 

Roger

well done, thanks for reporting back .

old battery might have been drawing to much and caused some over heating. doing what you did has allowed cooling, new battery will not stress it as much especially once fully charged.

i'd keep an eye on it, check the measurements again after a few days. if you have a reasonable meter you should measure ideally 13.65 volts at the battery terminals while under trickle charge, anything less than 13.3 your not going to get a full charge into the battery, over 13.8 tends to cook the battery and reduces battery life.

neither are urgent problems and might go on for many years, power outs are usually less than a hour in many places, those readings might indicate set aside some pennies for replacement in the not to near (hopefully) future.

Edited May 19, 201313 yr by arfur mo