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My Intellisense Securit 802 fitted by me and working fine for two years suddenly developed a tamper circuit problem a month ago.

I couldn't figure it and even connecting a link across + and - on the tamper circuit (which I thought would bypass it) wouldn't clear the problem.

I managed to find another box (now discontinued) and swapped the PCBs over but the same problem persists and box won't set.

On inspection of the back of PCB it looks as though the printed circuit runs up to Link1 (top right of circuit board as seen from front).

It says to ensure this link is removed before installation but would this bypass the offending circuit if all else fails ...or does anyone have any ideas?

Honeywell just say "Sorry discontinued—computer says no."

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Have you checked the Bell tamper? It is seperate from your zone tamper circuit. It is usually the most likely candidate as moisture can get into the bell connections. Check resistance readings on the negative feed to your bell and the tamper return, or short them out temporarily to see if it clears the fault.

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My Intellisense Securit 802 fitted by me and working fine for two years suddenly developed a tamper circuit problem a month ago.

I couldn't figure it and even connecting a link across + and - on the tamper circuit (which I thought would bypass it) wouldn't clear the problem.

I managed to find another box (now discontinued) and swapped the PCBs over but the same problem persists and box won't set.

On inspection of the back of PCB it looks as though the printed circuit runs up to Link1 (top right of circuit board as seen from front).

It says to ensure this link is removed before installation but would this bypass the offending circuit if all else fails ...or does anyone have any ideas?

Honeywell just say "Sorry discontinued—computer says no."

Do bear in mind there are multiple tampers on alarm systems.

Could be Bell Tamper, Aux Tamper or Keypad Tamper.

The Bell tamper terminal at the panel requires a negative back from the box.

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I couldn't figure it and even connecting a link across + and - on the tamper circuit (which I thought would bypass it) wouldn't clear the problem.

I hope you haven't connected a link across any + & -, that usually blows a fuse and causes even more problems.

By the way the 802 does not have a +&- tamper circuit so goodness knows what you have put the short circuit (link) across.

Someone told me I was ignorant and apathetic, I don't know what that means, nor do I care.

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