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Honeywell Dual-tec Pir Wiring?


jontawn

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Hi Redbull

Firstly, if thats your motor in your avatar, nice!

And yeah, its a new dimension, gd96.

So upon trigger of the PIR (someone walking past it) I assume that it should report 'open' rather than 'tamper o/c' ... any thoughts on what looks like i've got a case of numptyitus!

;)

cheers,

Jonathan

if you have it wired as per your diagram, and its a new dimension (not a g2) then its right

If its a G2 you cant use the 3k as its not caperble of that monitoring.

Basically with default resistors you should have 1k, normal 2k alarm oc or sh tamper

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my initial thoughts are you have your tamper and alarm pair mixed up.

But can you take a photo of the offending sensors wiring.

Also you say its reporting tamper o/c, if you look at display zones and let us know the readings displayed (press # when on the circuit) when normal, in alarm (ie led on) and case lid off & led off.

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Yep, i'm back onsite around 11am tomorrow so will post back on here around then if thats ok?

(i didnt know about the hash key when viewing the zones)

many thanks in advance,

Jonathan ;)

my initial thoughts are you have your tamper and alarm pair mixed up.

But can you take a photo of the offending sensors wiring.

Also you say its reporting tamper o/c, if you look at display zones and let us know the readings displayed (press # when on the circuit) when normal, in alarm (ie led on) and case lid off & led off.

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If the zone is capable of being progged as antimask then use the 3k as well ie triple EOL,

If it's not then dont even wire to the trouble/fault contact just to the other side of the tamper.

Zone secure=1k (panel just sees EOL resister 1k across tamper contact)

Zone active=2k (panel sees EOL + alarm resistor 1k)

Zone tamper=short OR open circuit.

Zone masked=5k (1k + 1k + 3K)

I would imagine that if a zone is progged as normal EOL ie two resistors and you've got the third one(3k) in line it don't like the total resistance it's seeing :hmm: .

Don't think you've crossed alarm and tamper as they should be both the same! ;)

Richard.

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Another thing that tends to confuse people sometimes is that the tamper contact breaks the circuit it, there is no resistor across the contact-unlike the alarm which introduces a resistance additional to the EOL value.

Not meant to sound condescending to anyone, but if you're fairly new to alarms it's quite awkward getting your head around resistances and how they're supposed to work-I've had to explain it loads of times :rolleyes: .

Richard.

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Hi Richard,

"If it's not then dont even wire to the trouble/fault contact just to the other side of the tamper." ....... sooooooo..... where I have the 3k resistor, then a bridge/link to the next contact, I assume your saying wire the (blue) tamper wire in there? ie, move the blue tamper wire accross to the first lead of the 1k resistor??

sorry to sound a little dumb this morning!

Jonathan ;)

If the zone is capable of being progged as antimask then use the 3k as well ie triple EOL,

If it's not then dont even wire to the trouble/fault contact just to the other side of the tamper.

Zone secure=1k (panel just sees EOL resister 1k across tamper contact)

Zone active=2k (panel sees EOL + alarm resistor 1k)

Zone tamper=short OR open circuit.

Zone masked=5k (1k + 1k + 3K)

I would imagine that if a zone is progged as normal EOL ie two resistors and you've got the third one(3k) in line it don't like the total resistance it's seeing :hmm: .

Don't think you've crossed alarm and tamper as they should be both the same! ;)

Richard.

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Redbull, please find attached a photo of how the sensor is wired (as per diagram) (i beleive!) but i'm getting tamper o/c this way

if anyone else has any thoughts, do let me know!

ta in advance,

jt

my initial thoughts are you have your tamper and alarm pair mixed up.

But can you take a photo of the offending sensors wiring.

Also you say its reporting tamper o/c, if you look at display zones and let us know the readings displayed (press # when on the circuit) when normal, in alarm (ie led on) and case lid off & led off.

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Blue to left hand 'T' terminal or right hand 'trouble' terminal-your doing away completely with the 'trouble' contact and just leaving standard 2 resistor wiring.

If you leave the blue where it is but remove the 3k resistor all that will happen is as soon as that contact 'opens' the panel will see an open circuit-which we know is interpreted as a'tamper'.

Try it-I'm not to familiar with the zone configuration of that panel-but you'd already stated previously that it worked without the 3k in the circuit-all you are looking for value wise is either 1k zone clear, 2k zone active,(and as said open/short=tamper)

Richard.

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Richard,

cheers bud - thats how i've wired it and all appears to be ok. I'm just concerned that should something catastrophic happen (ie a man with a bag marked 'swag') then it will all be my fault and i'll end up with no business and no life!!

Oh yeah, always looking on the bright-side of life ;)

cheers,

Jonathan

Blue to left hand 'T' terminal or right hand 'trouble' terminal-your doing away completely with the 'trouble' contact and just leaving standard 2 resistor wiring.

If you leave the blue where it is but remove the 3k resistor all that will happen is as soon as that contact 'opens' the panel will see an open circuit-which we know is interpreted as a'tamper'.

Try it-I'm not to familiar with the zone configuration of that panel-but you'd already stated previously that it worked without the 3k in the circuit-all you are looking for value wise is either 1k zone clear, 2k zone active,(and as said open/short=tamper)

Richard.

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