secureiam
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Posts posted by secureiam
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oh dear so you have the alarm red and black and tamper blue and yellow into the same terminals, how long were you in the industry?
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12 hours ago, PeterJames said:
Make sure you set the timer just long enough for the mother in law to get only half way up
classic but thought they could see in pitch black over 100m
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the detection devices are wired double pole, so on the 24 you would have to wire the alarm into one zone and the tamper as a global or spare zone.
What does the panel see in the event log, as this will tell you what it has registered in order.
If you cant set the alarm panel, then ensuring you have left walk test properly (ie come out of walk test rather than the engineer time out), exited the menus if using the keypad, set the alarm with the user code, if the arming mode hasn't been changed the panel will be looking for the door to open then close, rather than a timed exit.
As for the time and date like many panels that's because the system has had a complete power down and reboot.
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do you have the LED on the door sensor turned on?
(you can see if the door reed was activated if it was turned on).
are you using the one way door contact or the 2 way?
Once the exit mode is started opening and closing the door when the zone is programed as final exit should set the system,
Changing the zone to a e/e zone type would make it a time set.
The app sets it very quickly as theres no need for the app to see the door open and close.
what is the signal strength for the door contact?
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You need the 412/816/832 manual if you have the 816 panel, the premier 24,48 etc and the Elite manuals would be no good to you.
the 412/816 and 832 were mainly international panels, although UK variants exist (UK bell module).
how long is the exit delay timer set to?
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I guess it will depend on how you look at it.
I think sometimes it is and sometimes it isn't, and getting better at knowing when to walk away politely.
Then again some so called pros work hasn't been fantastic from what I have seen.
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The 816 doesn't have the same programming structure as the Premier/Elite 12 to 640's
have to be honest never had much to do with them so I would be looking at the manual and trying to work it out.
Wintex does have the options marked with the code used at the keypad to access them.
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local business network meetings may want to attend some?
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Not sure what you are getting at, I have my reasons for looking at this model and the possibilities it opens.
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Anyone tried the new pyronix wifi module yet and wireless keypad?
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you probably don't have the configuration software.
you can email me , but is it not getting late evening in Australia now?
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I was referring if you want me to have a look I could download the profile but I would need those details to have a look.
its not like I can pop round.
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do you have your panel id, and cloud login details?
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I always do a site survey I have only ever had the odd home that couldn't take wireless due its construction/ environment that just wouldn't have been picked up over the phone.
Wireless certainly seems more popular these days, what I don't get is this with working hardwired systems that want to upgrade to wireless (as the customer would say) and insist on it over upgrading there hardwired system or making it hybrid.
Been and done a site survey and done a quick check with a test plug on the electrics and I refused to quote on the job, because of the electrics being self installed (wrong) and he was trying to tell me how to do my job so I told him to do it himself I am not interested thank you.
Have you tried to find out why your not winning?
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it dialling you or you dialling it?
it is documented in the user manual, for authorisation you use DTMF and enter the code assigned, the agility takes you through the steps from what I recall.
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Not sure what you class as expensive, and that's all about how much stock do you carry.
I see what you mean about left to right as the sensor is magnetic field direction sensitive and the alignment is very specific.
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probably the battery, but running it so low can damage the panel.
just run without the battery connected and does it still false alarm? I suspect not.
Then replace the battery and see what happens, if it messes up again then replace the panel.
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If you have something way down the garden that needs to bounce off a device, then its better to have two devices somewhere between rather than just one so if one goes down the other is still available.
You don't need to have mesh established to get a signal strength, but if the device cant report back to the panel it isn't going to be much good to you.
get the signal strength of one device that's learned to the panel and keep retesting it so you know where it drops off the panel get the second device learned on, place the system in commissioning mode and walk out past the other device and test it.
I prefer viewing ricochet monitor on the laptop to see when its complete rather than timing it for completion.
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NSI and SSAIB said they would help me get to grips with all that regs stuff, so ask them for guidance in plain English.
Every part of the system needs to be grade 3 is my understanding and programed according to the regulations for grade 3.
So the device has to be grade 3 capable and installed and programmed accordingly for grade 3, anything on the system below grade 3 will drag the system below grade 3.
That's is as general an overview as I can offer, but I suspect you want something more specific, on detection and on what programming options or how the panel should function as grade 3 over grade 2.
@ petercts Seriously that can't be right, perfectly fitting doors versus securely shut and locked doors?
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just some of my customers ask about the different things on offer and what it costs and saves them and insurance gets mentioned.
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so your customers don't ask what they are getting for their money?
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Try ebay there's someone on there selling lots of old kit at minute, may even be able to ask them if the come across one.
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If its monitored it does need to be installed to the relevant standard, if its not monitored or its self monitored what you declare the system as makes it relevant to how its installed and affects your liability as the installer and the risk to the client and their insurance premium?.
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Is it bells only, does it really need to comply?
Starting out on my own
in Members Lounge (Public)
Posted
Why would you like to go it alone, and have you looked at all the costs involved?
Subbying for your current employer may be okay, is your employer in the know about your plans and agreeable?
I chose not to do any subbying and get my own work and building everything from scratch it its not impossible, depends on your competition locally.
I haven't gone down the URN route yet, I now have a company that's prepared to help out with that side if I wish (or so they say,not formalised yet and haven't taken them up on the offer, just not sure its right for me right now).
Both SSAIB and NSI asked for a minimum trading period as well as appropriate staffing levels or buddy company, I wasn't happy with my dealings with either organisation to be honest, each time I have been in touch, as for police response not sure that would happen these days even with all the paperwork correct, don't forget the fees involved.
so think about your costs, customer base, competition and how much you need to live on and look to see if there is any schemes in your local area to help you get started.