Rulland
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Posts posted by Rulland
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27 minutes ago, PSE said:
I ain't been able get onto the site for a few days, this is first time now
Ditto.
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Peter imho you don't have to justify anything, the Op posted, we, as 'professionals ', replied, end of tbh.
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I take it Mr Blazincannon you are unimpressed with the professionals opinions?
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That's a bit harsh Peter, Swann rubbish!, rip it out!, junk!, £200+ down the drain!....
Hi Blazincannon, welcome to the forums, please excuse Peter, he tends to be, well rather, shall we say, passionate some times as far as respectable kit goes, as do we all
So as per his post tbph.
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Yes, you may struggle to find spares as I'm pretty sure they're obsolete now
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Why mend it if it's never going to be used?.
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Hi Lyn, unfortunately we don't give out defaulting info on the public side, best bet is to call an engineer in, not a hard task to reset it, but it could maybe do with a service and battery change whilst your on, so it's worth it tbh.
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Possible, but not reliable, search the threads, there's been a few discussions on such a subject.
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No probs mate.
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Safe as long as you don't put stuff in the wrong hole lol.
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Yup, as per my previous post chap.
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Nope, 0v is the sounder hold off -ve, you need red from bomb to +12v and black from bomb to bell (which puts a -ve to both bomb and bell when in alarm condition.
The bell already has a +ve connected internally at the sounder.
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Speaker input is millivolts, soundbomb's is 12 volts-see the problem?.
Where on the system does one get a 12v output under alarm conditions?.
I'm assuming you are after louder alarms sounds during an activation of the system and not louder entry/exit tones.
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3 hours ago, Newbietexecom24 said:
Also what do I do with the rest of the tags?
Just because they come in packs of five doesn't mean you have to use five.
Leave the surplus to program if required in the future-in the end station is a good place, they won't get mislaid.
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3 minutes ago, james.wilson said:
who is responsible for the system? ie from an insurance point of view?
Everyone by the sounds of it, very grey area in the event of an insurance claim being made.
Insurance company...'So Sweety who actually maintains your system to ensure it will perform as required in the event of an intruder intrusion'.
'Well we all dabble'.......
Goodbye insurance claim.
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You are correct James, but where I do position a mag on the 'wrong' side of the door for aesthetic purposes, it's an area where access has already been granted by fob or the person has been let in by a employee etc so anyone wielding a screwdriver shouldn't be there anyway, that's the theory.
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As Peter, I have installations where the mag is on the 'unprotected' side of the door, because it saves on silly amounts of z brackets etc and looks the part with just the mag on the frame, nothing looks worse than chunks of ali bolted to the door.
RA suggests one can't get to the mag connections whilst the door is closed, so customer is happy on all counts.
Imo the same goes for wiring, use common sense and initiative.
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Hi Ashley and welcome, the trade only side of the site is worth thinking about.
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Unfortunately Tim we are unable to give out 'engineer' manuals to non trade, for obvious reasons, sorry.
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It is if you fit a seperate psu on those cameras-temporarily even just to narrow the problem down.
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Iirc panel does strobe confirmation but not squawk/chirp.
Honeywell ads gen4 optima compact alarm
in Members Lounge (Public)
Posted
You'll probably find new board is as expensive as a new panel, if not more, as most stockists will have to get one in special tbh.