Grade 3 bell box monitoring

[newuwave]

Hi – I have a Texecom Premiere Elite 24W and bell box’s grade 3 so I am monitoring them for faults.

As I have used all wiring zones on the 24W I have wired the bell box fault back to the keypad and mapped Zone 1 on keypad to Zone 5 on the 24W.

On the 24W I have set Zone 5 to be type Auxiliary as I understand this will only log a fault as a message and not activate the alarm.  This is how it’s been for 13 years without issue.

I am going to change the bell box to the new X type, again grade 3, but just want to check this will work as I expect or should I change type to PA Silent or other zone type?

 

Thanks for any advice.

[al-yeti]

30 minutes ago, newuwave said:

Hi – I have a Texecom Premiere Elite 24W and bell box’s grade 3 so I am monitoring them for faults.

 

As I have used all wiring zones on the 24W I have wired the bell box fault back to the keypad and mapped Zone 1 on keypad to Zone 5 on the 24W.

 

On the 24W I have set Zone 5 to be type Auxiliary as I understand this will only log a fault as a message and not activate the alarm.  This is how it’s been for 13 years without issue.

 

I am going to change the bell box to the new X type, again grade 3, but just want to check this will work as I expect or should I change type to PA Silent or other zone type?

 

 

 

Thanks for any advice.

 

Sounds bit hardcore , just entertaining you until swb gets here 

[sixwheeledbeast]

What's wrong with the existing siren?

Auxiliary type reports an alarm silently on the display which is probably fine for your needs.

Grade 3 boxes fault output are designed to be wired to the Aux Input and that input programmed as Fault (Sys Config), if your looking for the Texecom suggested way to do this.

Either way it all seems overkill, G3 fault detections wouldn't offer much benefit on a domestic over G2 and regular testing.

[newuwave]

Thanks for the advice.

 

One bell box reports a problem ....I assume battery.......suspect box  5E  (I have one of each Odyssey 3E & 5E) is also just flashing slowly right hand LED...."Hold off mode" I believe and I cant clear it. The 3E is fine.

 

At 13 years old I've just decided to replace both bell box's rather than the batteries to hopefully avoid further issues with them.

 

Thanks for clarifying the current connection method is just fine for my needs.

 

I'm no alarm expert and at the time did not pick up from the documentation I had about using Aux input for this.....I guess I must have missed this or the lack of explanation on how to use it in the documentation and then swayed by write up on zone types and keypad outputs which did the job.

 

I sort of agree "overkill" but I enjoyed setting this up with all the "bells and whistles" (no pun intended) and thought it a good idea to know if bell had a fault.

 

Great reliable kit, just sorry to see Texecom have distanced themselves from DIY but I understand why and great forums like this will hopefully keep me going if I ever need to replace the whole system with another Texecom Ricochet system.....hopefully not for many more years.

 

Thanks again.

 

 

[sixwheeledbeast]

I'd consider just replacing the battery part BAT-0001 if everything else looks serviceable.

Try triggering the strobe and see if they activate, then just the bell trigger and see if it clears hold-off.

I've not sure it will be the battery, you don't have the Test input wired from what I gather.

This runs the test using the test timer which triggers the fault output on the bell to open if the tests fail.

Not only is there added complexity having a G3 bell but you have two which is a mess to get right having to series everything.

[newuwave]

Thanks again.

I did think of just replacing the batteries.....but after 13 years I am happy to just replace both bells which I have bought....plan to change them Monday.

No I do not have test wire connected......If I have spares I will do so when I swap them over for future ref.

 

I have a juction box in the loft that connects both box's to the control unit so can individually check the fault relay of each bell box if I wanted....also made it a bit easier doing wiring.

 

Will be back for your help if I may if new box's don't sort it.

 

 

[sixwheeledbeast]

Having to series the microswitch, return and fault terminals correctly in a proper JB sounds like a PITA...

Usually best to loop in and out of the first box.

If it's not wired correctly it may just be a tamper between the two boxes as the tamper return may still be closed elsewhere...

 

Using the test wire requires wiring as per Texecom recommendations otherwise you'll get faults on every test signal.

The panel has to be programmed to expect the test is happening if you use Zones instead of fault input.