Visonic Powermax+ PGM output.

[james.wilson]

i would think you would need a t-relay but yes unless you have overloaded it already

[BaconAndCabbage]

I was hoping to avoid increasing complexity by adding a relay. All I need a 12v and 0v signal,

 

What I wanted to do was put say a 4.7k resistor across it and 12V. That way I'd get 12V at the PGM pin when it was "off" and 0v when it was on. The issue of course is that it doesn't seem to ever turn off.

 

[james.wilson]

1 hour ago, BaconAndCabbage said:

I was hoping to avoid increasing complexity by adding a relay. All I need a 12v and 0v signal,

 

What I wanted to do was put say a 4.7k resistor across it and 12V. That way I'd get 12V at the PGM pin when it was "off" and 0v when it was on. The issue of course is that it doesn't seem to ever turn off.

 

id expect it to read a difference with a meter, unless the output is broken. If you cant read it with a dvm then a t relay wont help

[al-yeti]

2 hours ago, BaconAndCabbage said:

I was hoping to avoid increasing complexity by adding a relay. All I need a 12v and 0v signal,

 

What I wanted to do was put say a 4.7k resistor across it and 12V. That way I'd get 12V at the PGM pin when it was "off" and 0v when it was on. The issue of course is that it doesn't seem to ever turn off.

 

Adding relay easier than whole discussion

[BaconAndCabbage]

Adding a resistor is far easier than adding a power burning, heating up relay.

 

However I'm wondering does it need something like a relay to draw more current so it can turn the pin off. I'm going to try and locate a relay and I'll report back.

 

[sixwheeledbeast]

"power burning, heating up relay"?

A pull up resistor would dissipate the wattage across it as heat. Either way I think we are getting off topic you can test this with a meter it wouldn't need a load.

If it's not switching then it's either not programmed correctly or blown.

The reason it's common practice for installers use relays is for separation with any auxiliary device.

[james.wilson]

1 hour ago, sixwheeledbeast said:

"power burning, heating up relay"?

A pull up resistor would dissipate the wattage across it as heat. Either way I think we are getting off topic you can test this with a meter it wouldn't need a load.

If it's not switching then it's either not programmed correctly or blown.

The reason it's common practice for installers use relays is for separation with any auxiliary device.

Qfa

 

Also the output maybe open without a pull up or down it won't show much logic wise