BveshPatel Posted August 30, 2015 Share Posted August 30, 2015 Hi All, So I have just installed a Texecom Premier 24 panel and have a few problems that I couldn't find any info from in the manual so thought I would come and ask you nice people The setup is as follows Texecom Premier 24, 8 Zone Texecom Speech and Text Communicator Texecom LCDL Keypad with Prox Texecom Premier Odyssey 3E Bell Box x2 Texecom Premier Elite Compact PIR x5 Texecom Impaq Plus with Magnetic Contact x2. The Pir have all been set up with Double Pole/EOL with the jumpers set to 4k7 for Alarm and 2k2 for Tamper Aux- and Aux + The Impaq Plus's have been wired as, 4k7 reed to reed, 2k2 tamper to alarm, 4k7 alarm to alarm, a link between reed and alarm, Aux - and Aux + The Communicator has been wired as Bell Trigger (panel) to Trigger input 3 (communicator) Aux - and Aux + Factory Defaults were loaded upon start Zones have been programmed as follows: Zone 1 Front Door (Entry Exit) Zone 2 Hallway (Guard Access) Zone 3 Front Room (Guard) Zone 4 Dinning Area (Guard) Zone 5 Back Door (Entry Exit) Zone 6 First Floor (Guard) Zone 7 Second Floor (Guard) Zone 8 Not Used I have left the attributes as default My Issues are as follows Doors are not chiming (have set up to chine in control panel) Door Resistance value doesn't change when door is opened. No Entry time is started when front door is opened. System doesn't arm fully or part. Each time I try to arm the system I get a message saying Zone Activity even though there is none Also need clarification on how to set up part set for night time setting. (which menu) If I have missed any other info needed then do not hesitate to ask Any help is greatly appreciated. Bhav Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QSXS Posted August 30, 2015 Share Posted August 30, 2015 (edited) 1. Are you a DIY Installer? 2. Do you have Wintex and a Serial Cable or are you using the RKP to Program? 3. Have you checked the Door Contact Wiring and ensured the EOL Resistor are correctly connected or used a contact with EOL Risistor built in. 4. Have you check the alignment of the contact and magnet. Edited August 30, 2015 by QSXS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simlec Posted August 30, 2015 Share Posted August 30, 2015 All your problems will be solved when you get your front door contact to work. your impaqs will need to get the magnet in the right place near the top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QSXS Posted August 30, 2015 Share Posted August 30, 2015 AS per Simlec and my point 4. I would also propose you wire the shock and Reed in different zones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WDT Posted August 30, 2015 Share Posted August 30, 2015 I would say its the way you have wired the door contacts as you have the reed output ( Door Magnet ) tamper output ( case removed ) and also a vibration output. If you put the 4k7 resistor in the contact conections and the 2k2 resistor from the contact connection to a tamper connection Then connect the zone wires, one in the "spare" tamper connection and one in the contact connection with only one resistor leg in. this will make the door contact work but not the vibration. I am not a site expert or any kind off expert but I would put the vibration on another zone Now if you are going to go with vibration on the same zone Ok so lets say put a zone wire into top connection reed switch with a resistor 4k7 between both reed switch connections, then a link wire to the bottom alarm wire with a 4k7 resistor between both alarm connections, then the 2k2 resistor between the alarm ( not the one with the wire link in the one with) and the bottom tamper connection and the other tamper connection to the other zone connection. Also the cover will need to be on when you test it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BveshPatel Posted August 30, 2015 Author Share Posted August 30, 2015 Thanks for the replies so far, 1. Training to be a Installtion Engineer, First solo project on my own 2. Using the RKP to Program? 3. Used wiring given in another forum as there was limited instructions provided with contacts. 4. Have you check the alignment of the contact and magnet. - How do you confirm this? Also could this arise from the contacts being too far apart? Would it matter if the front door has a steel panel beneath a textured finish? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WDT Posted August 30, 2015 Share Posted August 30, 2015 (edited) Also thinking what zone resistance are you getting this would help the experts, it might even help me The magnet/reed could be tested with a multimeter on ohms check what readings you get with the door open at the contact then shut the door and recheck with no resistors fitted in will be out of range with the door open and 0.00 ohms with the door shut Edited August 30, 2015 by WDT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BveshPatel Posted August 30, 2015 Author Share Posted August 30, 2015 On the panel it shows secure 2k2, when I open the door nothing changes. on another note the Pir shows 4k8 when there is activity, I don't believe this is normal? There are six terminals in the PIR and I have used 1 for tamper, 1 for alarm -Aux and + aux for power and the jumpers for the resistor values, Should the wires go in any particular terminal for alarm and tamper ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WDT Posted August 30, 2015 Share Posted August 30, 2015 They do need to go in the correct ones and you are right it is one in each which pirs do you have?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WDT Posted August 30, 2015 Share Posted August 30, 2015 Ok as for the magnet if it reads 2k2 secure then this is only seeing the tamper resistor and not the reed one. I would first check the reed works with a multimeter on the reed contacts and then open the door and recheck the resistance with no resistor fitted it will be out range (door Open) and 0.00 ( door closed) If you leave the resistor in it will be 0.0 door closed and 4700 ohms (door open) Hope this helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BveshPatel Posted August 30, 2015 Author Share Posted August 30, 2015 I am using the Texecom Premier Elite Compact PIR model ACD-0001 On the diagram supplied with the Pir it shows that one terminal is n/c and the other is 24 dc and together they are 50mA, am guessing the tamper and alarm wire should both be inserted in the 24dc terminal? Will confirm on the resistance of the door contacts when i get another chance, it's closing time...... Are there any programming details I need to change? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
al-yeti Posted August 30, 2015 Share Posted August 30, 2015 Can you post pictures of the door contact wiring , don't worry if it's mashed , we can see how you did it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BveshPatel Posted August 30, 2015 Author Share Posted August 30, 2015 (edited) Don't have a picture right now, however it is as follows - Aux Black + Aux Red Reed to Reed 4k7 Resistor Alarm to Alarm 4k7 Resistor Tamper to Reek 2k2 Resistor Link from reed to alarm Brown Alarm to control panel Blue Tamper to control panel Yellow Nothing in Latch Followed from a answer I found Edited August 30, 2015 by BveshPatel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QSXS Posted August 30, 2015 Share Posted August 30, 2015 (edited) It should look like the attach drawing. Assuming you use a separate Zone for the shock. (Recommended) I have also included the PIR Wiring. Do not forget to attach ALL Covers before testing. I am sure someone will create a debate over used using NC and not DP/EOL for the Shock Circuit, but I do not want to complicate it any more at the moment. Hope this helps Edited August 30, 2015 by QSXS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlie6 Posted August 30, 2015 Share Posted August 30, 2015 "...Are there any programming details I need to change?..." You mentioned that the panel is at it's default settings, usually a panel arrives as new in the 'conventional wiring mode'.. Have you changed this in programming (assuming that your instructions indicate 'conventional' when new). Conventional in this case means straight forward alarm loop and tamper loop with no resistors. Before carrying out a new install it is worthwhile to 'bench test' the panel before commencing. "...I am sure someone will create a debate over used using NC and not DP/EOL for the Shock Circuit,.." There is a school of thought which maintains that you use the same resistor values on all devices, in other words if you do not use resistors in one device then you don't use them in other devices, so a fully supervised loop should maintain identical resistor values throughout.. on all devices..It is suggested that this applies to all panels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WDT Posted August 30, 2015 Share Posted August 30, 2015 On the pir's lets go with zone connection on alarm contact next to the power connection and the other zone connection goes the other end off the block where it says tamper the two connections in the middle are unused as you have a resistor setup and are not using double pole . I hope this makes sense Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
al-yeti Posted August 30, 2015 Share Posted August 30, 2015 "...Are there any programming details I need to change?..." You mentioned that the panel is at it's default settings, usually a panel arrives as new in the 'conventional wiring mode'.. Have you changed this in programming (assuming that your instructions indicate 'conventional' when new). Conventional in this case means straight forward alarm loop and tamper loop with no resistors. Before carrying out a new install it is worthwhile to 'bench test' the panel before commencing. "...I am sure someone will create a debate over used using NC and not DP/EOL for the Shock Circuit,.." There is a school of thought which maintains that you use the same resistor values on all devices, in other words if you do not use resistors in one device then you don't use them in other devices, so a fully supervised loop should maintain identical resistor values throughout.. on all devices..It is suggested that this applies to all panels. To much info, that covers 12core , he just wants to correct his wiring Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlie6 Posted August 30, 2015 Share Posted August 30, 2015 (edited) "...To much info, that covers 12core , he just wants to correct his wiring..." Total poppycock ! Edited August 30, 2015 by charlie6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WDT Posted August 30, 2015 Share Posted August 30, 2015 I don't know if to laugh or cry on the 12 core subject, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BveshPatel Posted August 30, 2015 Author Share Posted August 30, 2015 (edited) Ok let's see if I understand correctly, Just a note I am using 8 core...... I should have: Reed to Reed 4k7 Tamper to Reed 2k2 one output from reed to Z1 one output from tamper to Z1 one pair from alarm to z8 no resistors. And on the Pir I have the wiring as shown however I have tamper jumer on C which I now realise is wrong.....doh should have left on A Can anyone confirm if there will be interference from the steel door with textured covering? Forgot to mention that I was not originally planning on using a separate zone for Shock as I have two doors that both have the Impaq plus Edited August 30, 2015 by BveshPatel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WDT Posted August 30, 2015 Share Posted August 30, 2015 Yep Is the keypad near to either door as there are two zone inputs on the keypad that you could use for either front or rear door that would then give you ten zones i.e Zone 1 on keypad door contact Zone 2 on keypad vibration circuit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BveshPatel Posted August 30, 2015 Author Share Posted August 30, 2015 Interesting point, unfortunately they keypad is outside the area of the control panel due to requirements. Can I wire the shock in series? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlie6 Posted August 30, 2015 Share Posted August 30, 2015 Alyeti:- "To much info," I believe I am in a better position than yourself as regards the amount of 'info' in a reply..as you are well aware !!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WDT Posted August 30, 2015 Share Posted August 30, 2015 What about a on board expander theres a plug on version that adds 8 zones or there is a 4 zone one that uses up 2 keypad address's I would go for the 8 zone out of choice in case of future upgrades Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WDT Posted August 30, 2015 Share Posted August 30, 2015 WDT:- "...I don't know if to laugh or cry on the 12 core subject..." Well Alyeti has been proved 'wrong', he has admitted that he is wrong, he accepted that he was wrong...but he still keeps on in the belief that he is not wrong on that topic..I find that absolutely amazing !!! No more Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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