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Bell Box Module Wiring Interface Help


paulwike

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Hi,

 

Im a newbie to this site.  I have an old Scantronic 9200 - well 9210 alarm and remote keypad (please dont laugh i loved the 80's),  after a lot of reseting i have managed to get it all working with the internal speaker.   I want to create a mini bell box module circuit which will flick a relay when the alarm is triggered , but to do this i need to understand the interface from the control panel and i'm clutching at straws atm - any help is appreciated ;-0

 

I have the following from the alarm control box :

 

Pin 1 - TRIG + / Hold + (constant + power supply  ??????)

Pin 2 - TRIG - /  -VE RINGING

Pin 3 - 0v  / Hold - (constant - power supply ????)

Pin 4 - TR /  -VE Tamper return.

 

Im assuming that i can user P1 and P3 as a power supply (regardless of the alarm being triggered or not).

 

what isnt clear is how:

 

  • I put together the tamper circuit (I'm guessing P4 is involved)
  • Detect if the alarm has been triggered which I'm guessing will need to involve P2 ?

 

Im probably over complicating things but any help is appreciated .

 

 

Paul.

 

 

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Im a bit lost as to what you're trying to do, are you just trying to connect a modern external siren?

Pin 4 is just looking for 0v through a tamper switch etc... to show all is ok.

1 and 3 are just constant power as you say, 2 goes Neg in an alarm situation

Hope this helps!

So, I've decided to take my work back underground.... to stop it falling into the wrong hands

 

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Hi,  Thanks for the reply and your help.   Yes I want to use a relay so I can connect in a strobe and possibly switch on / off some other things....

 

Pin 2 - so this will be 0v when the alarm is triggered ?   does that mean it will be positive (12v) when the alarm hasn't been triggered ?

 

 

Paul.

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Pin 1 is 12v

Pin 2 will switch to 0v when alarm triggers

So relay between them Will switch , you need a diode on that relay I think

Providing what you said above is correct

Don't you have a multimeter , otherwise buy one and yesterday it , very cheap these days and always useful

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Thanks ,  Yes i have a multimeter and thanks to your responses i kind of know what to check,   its been a while since ive done any electronics work so apologies for all of the questions ;-)     

 

so is pin 2 an open circuit initially and then when the alarm triggers it switches to 0v ?  

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You did say floating! Nope boat has a DIY 'alarm' PCB, the biggest reason being it's happy to run on DC only but also supports it's own battery.  And very low mA as key based not lcd rkp etc

 

Many other panels seemed to look for the 50Hz mains frequency to determine mains connected or not so hard to fool.

So, I've decided to take my work back underground.... to stop it falling into the wrong hands

 

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You did say floating! Nope boat has a DIY 'alarm' PCB, the biggest reason being it's happy to run on DC only but also supports it's own battery.  And very low mA as key based not lcd rkp etc

 

Many other panels seemed to look for the 50Hz mains frequency to determine mains connected or not so hard to fool.

 

Ah, so that was the method you went with in the end.

I have a couple of stripboard schematics for practically no standby current, NO circuit alarms that I use for DC supplies; like motorcycles and cars for example.

They have been very reliable for my applications.

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You did say floating! Nope boat has a DIY 'alarm' PCB, the biggest reason being it's happy to run on DC only but also supports it's own battery. And very low mA as key based not lcd rkp etc

Many other panels seemed to look for the 50Hz mains frequency to determine mains connected or not so hard to fool.

Admit it , you have a key switch for arming , battery , micro switches on doors , and a siren

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Not quite!

 

It has 6 zones, 4 NC and 2 NO, and an LED per zone. Just to make it REALLY low current the LEDs don't

show unless you hold a button (other than ARM)

 

Key for arming is an eye-wateringly expensive keyed-alike Abloy, so it's the same as all the other locks and

padlocks on the boat.

 

All 3 Doors have standard MCs. As it's a steel box that's it! PA on one N/O, the rest spare

 

Yep old Tandy buzzer for E/E. Hoisiden Beeson siren outside under seat bench, not a SAB.


Ah, so that was the method you went with in the end.

 

Reluctantly, as even if it worked the Scantronic would have pulled many mA... Still got the test lash up 9651 PCB tucked in a slot above my bench, might finish it one day!

So, I've decided to take my work back underground.... to stop it falling into the wrong hands

 

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