paulwike Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 Hi, Im a newbie to this site. I have an old Scantronic 9200 - well 9210 alarm and remote keypad (please dont laugh i loved the 80's), after a lot of reseting i have managed to get it all working with the internal speaker. I want to create a mini bell box module circuit which will flick a relay when the alarm is triggered , but to do this i need to understand the interface from the control panel and i'm clutching at straws atm - any help is appreciated ;-0 I have the following from the alarm control box : Pin 1 - TRIG + / Hold + (constant + power supply ??????) Pin 2 - TRIG - / -VE RINGING Pin 3 - 0v / Hold - (constant - power supply ????) Pin 4 - TR / -VE Tamper return. Im assuming that i can user P1 and P3 as a power supply (regardless of the alarm being triggered or not). what isnt clear is how: I put together the tamper circuit (I'm guessing P4 is involved) Detect if the alarm has been triggered which I'm guessing will need to involve P2 ? Im probably over complicating things but any help is appreciated . Paul. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datadiffusion Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 Im a bit lost as to what you're trying to do, are you just trying to connect a modern external siren? Pin 4 is just looking for 0v through a tamper switch etc... to show all is ok. 1 and 3 are just constant power as you say, 2 goes Neg in an alarm situation Hope this helps! Quote So, I've decided to take my work back underground.... to stop it falling into the wrong hands Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulwike Posted January 19, 2015 Author Share Posted January 19, 2015 Hi, Thanks for the reply and your help. Yes I want to use a relay so I can connect in a strobe and possibly switch on / off some other things.... Pin 2 - so this will be 0v when the alarm is triggered ? does that mean it will be positive (12v) when the alarm hasn't been triggered ? Paul. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
al-yeti Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 Pin 1 is 12v Pin 2 will switch to 0v when alarm triggers So relay between them Will switch , you need a diode on that relay I think Providing what you said above is correct Don't you have a multimeter , otherwise buy one and yesterday it , very cheap these days and always useful Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulwike Posted January 19, 2015 Author Share Posted January 19, 2015 Thanks , Yes i have a multimeter and thanks to your responses i kind of know what to check, its been a while since ive done any electronics work so apologies for all of the questions ;-) so is pin 2 an open circuit initially and then when the alarm triggers it switches to 0v ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulwike Posted January 19, 2015 Author Share Posted January 19, 2015 Sorry just re-read your last reply about pin1 and pin 2 - many thanks ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datadiffusion Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 It really depends on the system. Modern scanys describe the bell o/p as being able to sink up to 500mA. Prob o/c when bell off. Quote So, I've decided to take my work back underground.... to stop it falling into the wrong hands Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
al-yeti Posted January 20, 2015 Share Posted January 20, 2015 As above , what do they call it floating perhaps? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datadiffusion Posted January 20, 2015 Share Posted January 20, 2015 Could well be - the 9200 is well old mind as I'm sure you know. Quote So, I've decided to take my work back underground.... to stop it falling into the wrong hands Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
al-yeti Posted January 20, 2015 Share Posted January 20, 2015 You have one in the boat? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datadiffusion Posted January 20, 2015 Share Posted January 20, 2015 You did say floating! Nope boat has a DIY 'alarm' PCB, the biggest reason being it's happy to run on DC only but also supports it's own battery. And very low mA as key based not lcd rkp etc Many other panels seemed to look for the 50Hz mains frequency to determine mains connected or not so hard to fool. Quote So, I've decided to take my work back underground.... to stop it falling into the wrong hands Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sixwheeledbeast Posted January 20, 2015 Share Posted January 20, 2015 You did say floating! Nope boat has a DIY 'alarm' PCB, the biggest reason being it's happy to run on DC only but also supports it's own battery. And very low mA as key based not lcd rkp etc Many other panels seemed to look for the 50Hz mains frequency to determine mains connected or not so hard to fool. Ah, so that was the method you went with in the end. I have a couple of stripboard schematics for practically no standby current, NO circuit alarms that I use for DC supplies; like motorcycles and cars for example. They have been very reliable for my applications. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
al-yeti Posted January 20, 2015 Share Posted January 20, 2015 You did say floating! Nope boat has a DIY 'alarm' PCB, the biggest reason being it's happy to run on DC only but also supports it's own battery. And very low mA as key based not lcd rkp etc Many other panels seemed to look for the 50Hz mains frequency to determine mains connected or not so hard to fool. Admit it , you have a key switch for arming , battery , micro switches on doors , and a siren Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datadiffusion Posted January 20, 2015 Share Posted January 20, 2015 Not quite! It has 6 zones, 4 NC and 2 NO, and an LED per zone. Just to make it REALLY low current the LEDs don't show unless you hold a button (other than ARM) Key for arming is an eye-wateringly expensive keyed-alike Abloy, so it's the same as all the other locks and padlocks on the boat. All 3 Doors have standard MCs. As it's a steel box that's it! PA on one N/O, the rest spare Yep old Tandy buzzer for E/E. Hoisiden Beeson siren outside under seat bench, not a SAB. Ah, so that was the method you went with in the end. Reluctantly, as even if it worked the Scantronic would have pulled many mA... Still got the test lash up 9651 PCB tucked in a slot above my bench, might finish it one day! Quote So, I've decided to take my work back underground.... to stop it falling into the wrong hands Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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