If your main panel is similar to the Securitech 800 series (late 1990's vintage), the default engineer code will be <CODE REMOVED> (unless it's been changed by the installer).

Trouble is, it wont help you much unless you've got the Install manual (which I DO!). Post me your email address here if you need a copy - ST800L ONLY, that is.

(with due respect to PROFESSIONAL installers out there), The COWBOYS that installed the alarms in our (new) houses were most slap-dash, several not even having batteries fitted. Prolonged power failures definitly knock this panel out, with it forgetting settings and often refusing to reset properly one power is restored. This is odd, as the parameters are stored in a 'non-volatile' chip, but it happens none-the-less.  The fix is a factory reset, reprogram, and a new battery!

If that doesn't do it, the panel is probably fried. I'm not the world's expert in alarm panels, but I do understand electronics, and this one is definitly a bit "minimalist" when it comes to lighening or short-circuit protection. You could, however, expect to buy a new panel and keypad, and reuse the existing cabling and bell-box.

Personally, I think it would be easier to introduce Capital Punishment for all burglars. Certainly cut down on repeat offenders....

Larry

Waza04 Admin: READ THE RULES OF THIS FORUM!!

need manuals for an C&K Securitech Securit 800L

if you can help contact me scorpion_inc@hotmail.com

or pm me

Thanks in advance

Edited May 31, 200421 yr by Ric B

We can help you with the user manual, but if you want the install manual you will need to contact Intellisense, have a look at the honeywell.co.uk website.

Dale

I got a scantronic alarm panel 9452, it appears to work correctly , i understand both strobe and bell triggers are infact by the neg, i tested this with a tester to get the polarity. I also aquired an old exco bell box from work the other day, this is what it said on the PCB Board > (COR Security v: Ultima : Issuse 1 : 940324)

I powered it Pos and Neg from the panel and conected them to the supply hold off 0v and +ve, Tamper return connected to tamper return in the panel, I also connected the strobe trig -ve in bell box to the strobe -ve connection in panel.

All this is working fine.

The Problem I got is that the -ve bell trig in the panel when connected to the -ve siren trig in bell box. the Siren/bell Wouldn't Stop (This is with all bell box tamper switches liked out). So I connected from +ve in the bell box to the siren -ve and the alarm stops and starts again when removed, so it seems to work ok but I know it is connected Wrougly.

Rob.

Sounds as though the Hold- and bell sw- are infact the wrong way round. So when you connect the -ve bell trig in the panel you are actually connecting to the Hold- and supplying a constant 0 volts to the SW- of the bellbox.

Hi, been looking around the web for the installation instructions for the ST800L, with very little success. After reading your posting you may be able to help me.

I am currently living in Australia and have a property in the uk. All my possesions are packed away and only my young daughter is in the uk. We had a new panel fitted about 1 year ago by my brother in law who is an installer, but have recently had a fall out. I know the engineers code and would like to have the installation manual prior to getting an engineer out. Any help would be appreciated.

thanks

alan

If your main panel is similar to the Securitech 800 series (late 1990's vintage), the default engineer code will be <CODE REMOVED> (unless it's been changed by the installer).

Trouble is, it wont help you much unless you've got the Install manual (which I DO!). Post me your email address here if you need a copy - ST800L ONLY, that is.

(with due respect to PROFESSIONAL installers out there), The COWBOYS that installed the alarms in our (new) houses were most slap-dash, several not even having batteries fitted. Prolonged power failures definitly knock this panel out, with it forgetting settings and often refusing to reset properly one power is restored. This is odd, as the parameters are stored in a 'non-volatile' chip, but it happens none-the-less. The fix is a factory reset, reprogram, and a new battery!

If that doesn't do it, the panel is probably fried. I'm not the world's expert in alarm panels, but I do understand electronics, and this one is definitly a bit "minimalist" when it comes to lighening or short-circuit protection. You could, however, expect to buy a new panel and keypad, and reuse the existing cabling and bell-box.

Personally, I think it would be easier to introduce Capital Punishment for all burglars. Certainly cut down on repeat offenders....

Larry

Waza04 Admin: READ THE RULES OF THIS FORUM!!

I have this key and it was without any power about 6 years or so and now I dont know how to make it work.

I dont know master key, when I use 2222 yelow led splash and blind, green is always on. other key stroke beeps and after some retryes it blocks for a 2 seconds.

Can anyone help?

If anyone can confirm it to ne by E-mail.

Edited March 29, 200818 yr by suxia

I have this key and it was without any power about 6 years or so and now I dont know how to make it work.

I dont know master key, when I use 2222 yelow led splash and blind, green is always on. other key stroke beeps and after some retryes it blocks for a 2 seconds.

Can anyone help?

If anyone can confirm it to ne by E-mail.

it is a c.k systems digital access keypad model either EDS 18A/18PA.

sorry can,t be more help than that

paul

5003.pdf

Edited March 29, 200818 yr by black knight