Eugene's DIY Den

I selected ADD&Id:RF Points from the ADD & ID RF Devices menu and it scanned and found the device and it now has an RF ID (told me to close the tamper also which I did). Is there another sub option in that menu where it asks what zone to assign to?

Yes, my local friendly electrical store.

So I just go to the options for that point and assign to a zone there?

It's assigned to/into/as a Point. The blurb that came with the sensor suggested "it would be best to add and ID your RF-PIR's (sic) into Points (of which there are 40) first before you assign them to zones". Neither the manual for the panel nor the PIR manual show how to do this.

...and secondly if I have a zone configured as a non-EOL type (two wired PIRs on it currently), can I add a wireless PIR to that zone?

I have setup a wireless PIR and as recommended, added it into a point. How do I now assign it to a zone?

Ok, I suppose that's the idea of the walk test to check whether the panel is responding to sensors, rather than arming and checking for an alarm on each sensor. I've just installed my wireless internal sounder. In the menu, I discovered there's an entry/exit setting in "options". Is this for generating a tone on entry/exit?

So there's no setting for turning it on/off? (within the services menu).

Sometimes I just use a mobile phone and make a call to my land line (or use a cordless phone, and leave the wired handset off hook so it picks up sound from the keypad).

Can I do this temporarily while testing to check whether the panel is alarming properly (and the internal sounder can be heard ok)? I can't find the setting in the Engineer menu. Also can I use a wireless internal sounder as an audible device when doing a walk test and I'm out of the range of being able to hear a keypad?

Anyway I'm adding a few PIR's to act as backup (and implementing an exercise schedule for the windows ).

After over a year and a half since I posted this, several more contacts have stuck (on windows that are never opened).

Another alternative is cheap low power radio, transmitter/receiver pairs and make up my own contraption (but that would be too much work )

I'll probably go for HKC's wireless internal sounder so it can be located midway in a hall between front and back of the house and be heard everywhere. There's space at the top of the SW 10 70 panel (not sure what that's for) and I could wire in a "sound bomb", but I wouldn't hear it up stairs.

It doesn't even beep when a non-walkthrough zone is opened. It continues to say "system armed". However I do get a beep to notify me of a tamper. I just want to cater for the scenario when I'm in bed and the alarm goes off and I don't hear the external sounder or I'm at the back of the house and can't hear it at the front. I don't want an internal 120 dB type device either. When I add a GSM communicator, it'll send me a text message so I suppose that's a workaround.

I don't have an internal sounder (I would need one for front and back of house). However I have two keypads. Can I get them to sound a tone/announce that an alarm has occurred?. They tell me about it when I unset the alarm, but don't show any info on the display and are silent when I open a zone.

Possibly it may be referring to a Quantum panel or earlier edition of the SW 10-70 or just a generic diagram. Terminals have the same function and are in the same order as on my board, except the polarity legend is reversed for the external bell output.

Ok, thanks guys for all the help. Hopefully the external sounder hasn't been damaged. 12 volts would have been placed on the -ve trigger by my **** up. Will check it tomorrow. Have notified HKC about their document error.

Yes, discovered that. The 0 at the start of the default code on every page of the manual must be a misprint.

Quoted default engineer's code appears to work now since I cleared the fault by resetting the panel.

On my keypad, the "play/quit" button backs out of the menu. 0 prompts for a user code. Presumably quick codes can be configured in the engineer menu if I can figure out the code to get into it.

Ok, managed to "hack" it and fault has disappeared! Code was obvious and I won't get a job as a professional hacker!

The default code has a 0 at the start so I'm not sure whether that's supposed to be the first digit of the code or they mean to use it as a prefix. In any case I've tried 0 + the code and 00.

I did that. Firstly removed the fuse and then the battery connection and reversed the process on startup.

I'm working off a downloaded manual, so that's where I got the codes. I'll try some other combinations. Would the fault indication have been caused by the panel lid being open? (which was then latched?).