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bee_man

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About bee_man

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  • Birthday 01/01/1952

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    Male
  • Location
    East Anglia
  • Interests
    Electronics, Radio, CAD

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    UK

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  1. RGL have problems with the add-on monitor board for the 1205SM 12V PSU at the moment, so I've changed to the CQR PSS12V2A/G3/C which looks very good quality. No way do I need grade 3! but it will do nicely. EPS, APS, PO and Fault/Tamper isolated outputs, 3 separate battery connectors with individual charging. Polyswitch resettable fuses, tamper front and back, space for two 12V 17Ahr SLA batteries or three 9Ahr, or you can get the medium sized /B box or the small /A. Also plenty of holes for tie wraps and cable gland holes in the base, knock outs top and bottom.
  2. Thanks guys. So basically, if I don't want it to latch, don't connect anything to the latch line?. Perfect.
  3. Hi, The Texecom AEC-0001 glass break detector looks good and is a good price, but I don't fully understand the description of the Latch input, or there is some info missing. It explains the wiring of LATCH to Set+ or AL+ but it does not say if there is a method of using it in non-latched mode. For example, what I would like is for the alarm output of it to actuate for 1 or 2 seconds only if it detects a glass break. The Pyronix BG16DF has a jumper to set latched or normal. In normal it actuates the alarm output for 5 seconds then resets. Can I do 'normal' with the Texecom and if so, how, please? Thanks.
  4. I'm planning to use the 1205SM-2 power supply by RGL which has a tamper output, and there's an optional monitor unit for 12 quid which gives isolated relay outputs for Missing or No AC and for Missing or Low Battery. I can wire them direct to the inputs in the panel. The panel and it's inputs do not depend on the external 12V. I'll put the tamper straight to 24hr tamper input, but I suppose I'll make the other two chime at the panel and log the event.
  5. Understood, that's one of the reasons I'm using a separate battery backed 12V power supply, so the 12V siren supply won't draw anything from the alarm panel 12V. As for the STB and BELL lines, I was under the impression that the siren inputs are just signal inputs taking a few mA, and the STB and BELL outputs on the panel can supply 500mA each, so I should be OK there. The current draw when it goes nuts will either be supplied by the battery backed external 12V supply or the internal SAB battery, not from the panel. Unless I've missed something, which is entirely possible. . .
  6. Thanks fro your help. Yes, I've seen the info about that terminating resistor and it is something different to this 2K2. The 2K2 I was referring to is in series with the tamper line as used in DEOL. I don't see why it's needed in this way of using it. Yes, I've seen the recommendation for one in SAB and one in SCB if using two bells, but my main question on that one is why?. I'm using a battery backed up 12V supplt to the bells and rest of the equipment. The bells themselves will run off that 12V, and will charge their own internal battery from it, so they are independantly backed up if the 12V supply is cut to either or both. I'll change them if I needed but I have to now the reason. My main problem is silencing the bells when in Engineering Mode, via the hold up. The Pyronix box has the ability to have an output set to type " Engineer Holdoff " meaning it goes high when in engineering mode. Unfortunately it seems to be the wrong polarity according to the installation manual which says the bell hold off input needs to be taken low to inhibit the siren. I take your point, I guess could do it manually.
  7. I want to physically wire a Deltabell to a Pyronix HomeControl+ wireless alarm. Hopefully the attached picture is not too far off the mark. I think the 2K2 resistor is not relevant if it's just an ordinary input of type Tamper. I'm assuming PGM can drive Engineer Holdoff, and STB->STB, BELL->BELL is a wild guess :). Where I'm most unsure is what type to make the three outputs. Are STB and BELL already "pre-programmed" in that fixed function?. For PGM driving holdoff, I have read here to make the output of type Engineer Access. Looking at the output type table I find 0059 : Engineer Access Active : When entering Engineer mode. Restore : When leaving Engineer mode So far, OK, but the text above the table says: Polarity of the PGMs: The polarity of the outputs are normally switched negative, i.e. normal status OFF = 0v and in active status ON = 12v. NOTE: The PGM Outputs polarity cannot be inverted. So it sounds to me like setting PGM as type 59 and wiring it to the deltabell holdoff, holdoff will go to 12V when in engineering mode and the PGM output is active. This is the opposite of what we want, isn't it. Ie, you should take holdoff to 0V to inhibit the bell, not set it to 12V. Any thoughts please? If I want to drive two deltabells, can I parallel up all except tamper, and wire that from D1- to T1 on the first bell, out of T2 on the first bell into T1 on the second bell, and out of T2 on the second bell into Z33 input?. T1 one the first bell will be linked to 0V on the first bell. Batt/PSU is a 9Ahr 12V battery backed 3Amp PSU/charger, in a metal box like RGL and others supply. Bee
  8. Standard industry knowledge really, still taught to students so I assume still valid. Google for semiconductor bathtub or follow links from wiki : http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bathtub_curve Failures drop drastically in the first few months due to defects then rise fairly quickly around the 30 year mark due to diffusion and other wear out processes, leaving probability of failure looking like a section through a bath tub. Higher temperatures lead to earlier failures. Some components like DRAM have very much lower life span, and things like IGBT power devices are expected to live longer. bee
  9. I'm not an alarm person, my background is in electronics. I agree fully with the comments made here about life of relays and especially the electrolytic capacitors. Normal life of the capacitors is 1000 or 2000 hours at 85C, increasing considerably as the running temperature decreases. But it isn't the 200000 hours that yours have suffered. There's a very good chance that when you open the lid the caps will have bulging tops, or have popped and spread corrosive gunk and conductive foil everywhere. This is the reason that electrolytic caps now have a deep marked cross on the top, so that when they fail it is in a predictable manner. I bought a 4 year old panel to play with and learn on, and routinely changed all the electrolytics. The main smoothing cap was bulging and not too far off going pop. It's often exacerbated by poor design, putting the things next to hot heatsinks and drastically reducing their life. You are even getting close to the 30 years life expectancy of semiconductors!. Bottom line - do what the guys here are telling you, replace it. bee
  10. Neighbours from hell, been there many years ago, no fun bee
  11. Aha, thanks. In your experience, is it effective? bee
  12. Very helpful tips, thanks arthur. They will both be fixed to solid masonary walls so should be fine. Nothing above them. Boiler flue is 2m away and above, what do you think?. We can't go out if the washing is on the line. Hmm, another one I hadn't thought of It will have to be an optional omit input. You'd have to be really determined to get through the washing anyway!. Panel will be a Castle Euro and does support areas and (R'sTFM) yes, between 2 and 15 minutes bell per area. Even 2 minutes would be too long if it's a frequent false alarm (can I say FA yet?). Another thought - how about putting it on a double knock input?. Maybe not, if someone walks straight through it I don't think it would trigger. How about two beams set up so that if they trigger sequentially within a given period it sounds the bell, like a sequential confirmation detector?. bee
  13. Thanks to everyone for the opinions. The bird problem I would not have thought of, thanks, I'll attempt to prevent that. My yard is enclosed so I will probably give it a go and see what happens during the trial period. If I get any false alarms I won't leave it connected to the alarm, but turn on a light and sound a piezo for a short time. bee
  14. Yes, I hear you, but why? bee
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