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Agreed if start with 1 circuit and work from there. Link out all circuits then start with 1 find out what's wrong with it move on. Start with resistance and voltage etc

I had also had a glass place, Large workshop no detection 9448 or similar in an office block, equally crap fire alarm... Thomas Higgins letter than ccj for a few hundred quid of work (iirc)

Lol

Dude forget eol If you wired tamper and alarm , linking the zone clears the led as you say , Does it do that on a zone connected to a PIR? If yes reconnect wires , join the alarm wires at the PIR , does it clear the led ? On setting There's simple methodical approach to this Just like you would fault find on electrics ? Unless your just first fix then I understand your current approach , (current unintended pun but I think I might use it again )

Just don't... the basic stuff is the hardest because there's no proper logs or diagnostics, Something like a euro mini would say something like Fuse Failure 100 31/05/24 11:30, Silenced by user 1 31/05/24 11:33 You then replace the fuse, note the landing sensor does not light up, look in the loft to find a rat has chewed the wire or whatever Alarms are a massive pain the balls, don't get involved.... I regret getting involved In the words of Zammo Maguire - Just say no...

I can do basic alarm installs but not had much experience with alarm fault finding but every ones got to start somewhere. The reason I asked on here is because people have experience with different alarms and could be a simple fix

don't get involved in another one,.... When purchasing a house they or their solicitor should have the common sense to have the vendor declare the alarm working or not, ideally providing a service report dated within the last 12 month. Control, cable or device - Controls, does the controls have 12 volts on the aux supply ? (check fuse?) Device, does the device have 12 volts present to power it Cable, does the power cable have low ohms when made into pair. same for tamper & 12hr circuit. & high ohms between every other pair ? Why do I say don't get involved ? Who do you think there are going to ring on an evening or weekend when there alarm won't set, bleeps too much, does not bleep when it should bleep..... YOU Find a local proper alarm co. or tell the end user to find one

Not sure. They moved in in February and hasn't worked but unsure if the previous owners had it working

Has it never worked?

Apart form the 5 csl devices I have in place

This is the pir with model 8IR103. If you scroll down you can see a picture of the terminals https://www.citysecuritysystems.co.uk/honeywell-8ir103-pet-security-product

The PIR you mentioned earlier doesn't have eol are you saying model is different now?

Yes external bell works find. Tamper works at pirs and yes it's a global tamper. I try not to but the old while your here can you have a look at this. The ones pir I took down had 12v at it. I did notice in the pir there was 2 eol connections with nothing in. Is that possibly why?.

ADT used it for some national accounts, it was available for mainstream but rarely specced.

A small Mr H internet stalker found that jewson was using Chiron for all there 500 sites 14years ago So assume there was a few shekels in it..... Oh and big in Australia .......

don't get involved in alarms is best advice I can offer... do you have 12v dc at every pir, have you checked the fuse...

I just reposted what I had seen elsewhere, however - I never knew they had bought Chiron, however I can't think of anyone who used Chiron...

If all the cables took one route then anything is possible If it were me , Identify zone 1 and see what the equipment is at the other end Defaulting is good , but now you need to set each zone attributes Hence why I would link out all the zones and trace them one by one and clear each fault And that's once I know the panel is clear of all faults I can't remember the panel much , but I assume it was a global tamper so loop that aswell Does the external bell work?

On all 8 cables and only on the alarm cores? Tamper and voltage working as it should I only linked out 1 zone as was strapped for time

Cable faults? If you link out all the zones does that clear the LEDs?

Hi guys I'm an electrician by trade but been asked to try sort an alarm out at the property I'm currently working at and was hoping some one could offer abit of advice The alarm panel is a honeywell accenta g4 and the pir's are honeywell 8IR103 When trying to set it just keeps beeping and doesn't actually set. When pressing the up arrow it gives all 8 zones in arming fault. When trying to do a walk test all zones are already 1 rather than changing from 0 to 1. I've factory reset the panel to default settings and still the same. I've took zone one out and put a a link in. The arming fault disappears on zone 1 and walk test is 0 like it should. What am I missing with the pic's? Are they compatible with the panel or is they a normally open or normally closed that needs changing? It's like the pir's are staying open and not closing. Also the leds aren't working on the pir's even though the jumper is set to on. Any help would be appreciated

Well someone sees a quick buck to be made and BT see a quick buck to be made without doing much Some will probably stay?

appeasr the alterative to redcare might just be.... redcare ? https://www.addsecuregroup.com/newsroom/addsecure-enters-the-uk-alarm-signalling-market-to-continue-bt-redcare-services/

Leave password blank ?

Have just installed a copy of the RSS software from the honeywell site. All fine until trying to log in. I know the original default user and password but keeps coming up that they are wrong. Any ideas what this could be