Guest neilw Posted May 14, 2004 Share Posted May 14, 2004 Hi all, I am planning on installing a Pyronix Sterling 10 alarm in a 3-bed detached house. I will have: LCD keypad 3 Normal PIR's 2 Dual Tec (kitchen & garage) Pyronix Belle sounder Possibly some door contacts. I have a little experience in this field, so I think I'll be able to give it a go. I have a few questions though: 1) How much cable should I get? Should 200m be enough? (Fairly modern, 3-bed detached house) 2) We plan to add a conservatory. How can I cable a detector in readiness for this? 3) How do I fit the bell? Obviously if I go straight through the wall I'd end up in the bedroom; so presumably I only go half way (into the cavity?). Should the cable be easy to pull up from the loft? 4) Is the Pyronix a good choice (i.e. easy to install/program?) Many thanks in advance, any help is appreciated. Neil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest dale Posted May 14, 2004 Share Posted May 14, 2004 1. A 100m coil of cable should easily do the job, with cable left over. 2. Cable the conservatory but dont terminate the cables into the control panel just leave it near it. 3. What I tend to do is drill at an angle at the top of the house so it should appear in the loft - especialy if its a big loft. This way you should avoid hitting the bedroom. Just make sure there aint no water tanks you might go into or pipes. 4. Pyronix are ok, they are a basic LCD panel with not many features, but they do the job. Dale Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest dale Posted May 14, 2004 Share Posted May 14, 2004 Also.... rather than possibly some door contacts should require at least one... the one for the entry route door, this will start the countdown. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest neilw Posted May 14, 2004 Share Posted May 14, 2004 Thanks - I was planning on using the hall PIR as entry/exit... is this a bad idea? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest dale Posted May 14, 2004 Share Posted May 14, 2004 Well, if someone breaks into your house through the entry exit route the countdown will start, then the thief can quickly try and find your end station and incapacitate your alarm without it going into full alarm. So I think its better to have an entry route as a door contact that then makes the hall PIR into access so you can disable the alarm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest neilw Posted May 17, 2004 Share Posted May 17, 2004 Thanks Dale. Excuse my ignorance on the sounder issue. The window of the house goes right up to the eves, so can someone give me an idea of what angle I'd need to go in at to miss the room and come out in the loft? Funnily enough I used to do some Saturday work with an alarm installer when I was much younger; I just wish I'd taken more notice! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest dale Posted May 17, 2004 Share Posted May 17, 2004 Make sure that your loft doesnt start above the roof line, there are some houses with a sloping ceiling in which case you cant use this method and you will just have to try and conceil it as best you can. If of course your ceiling doesnt slope then drill at a fairly steep angle that you think is going to get you into the loft. You must make sure you are fairly high with your drill. Might be a good idea to drill at the same angle as the slope on your roof! Dale Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CompostCORNER Posted May 17, 2004 Share Posted May 17, 2004 Sterling 10's are not a bad kit for domestics. An LCD keypad alarm for very low money. The poloypropolene panel cover can be very fiddly to fit correctly, usually not quite pressing in the tamper leaf switch. Some careful bending of the switch and lid manipulation may be needed. It's a good idea to pop a contact on the exit door and have the hall pir on access/walk through. The plus's, you can have a nice door chime on the contact, and secondly, it does make the property a little more secure as only the door will generate an entry timer. Of course, make sure the hall pir is entry on part set. Also make sure the pir in the hall isn't going to detect mail coming through the letterbox. Tony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
breff Posted May 17, 2004 Share Posted May 17, 2004 Whats the difference in ceiling height to the top of the window? Have you got a long drill bit (at least 400mm)? With a long drill bit drill as steep an angle as you can.Poke some cable up the hole and then go fishing for it in the eaves of the loft. The opinions I express are mine and are usually correct! (Except when I'm wrong)(which I'm not) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neil.c Posted May 18, 2004 Share Posted May 18, 2004 If you measure the distance from the top of the window to the ceiling inside and the thickness of the wall, you can use pythagoras's theory to work out the angle you need to drill at to get into the roof-space and also whether your drill will be long enough. eg. 11" wall going up 14" 11sq+14sq=dist(sq) 121+196=root of 317 =17.8" so you would need a 500mm drill Then using tan x =opp/adj tan x = 11/14 tan x =.7857 x =38 deg A scientific calculator helps This is more critical if your drill is only just long enough. Also I would put door contacts on all external doors, esp patio door and garage door. If there is a door between the garage and the house I would put one on that also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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