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Proposed Alarm System - Comments


PThomas

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Hi PThomas,

and welcome to the forums.

as none of us will know your personal capabilities with tools or understanding manuals, and not having seen your home we would be hard put to place any constructive comments.

i note you have listed the mains fused spur, please be very very careful with lethal the voltages present, or better still employ an electrician, especially if your not competent and experienced in this area for everyones safety.

the kit chosen seems fine but one box of clips and one roll of cable might be a bit 'confining' (unless you shrink that extension down a bit :) ).

i would go for the latching pab, the latch is solid proof it was actually pressed and not a fault, so when that 'angelic little child' pleads total innocence you get to belt it twice, once for pressing it in the 1st place, and a second go for lying to you :yes:

if you get any problems please post again, we are not really into a complete remote design of your system, just to advise /explain on the trickier points many bump into.

my best simple advise if installing yourself, make sure every connection is very sound and well insulated with at least sleeving, or better with terminal block. never ever use self adhesive tape as this deteriorates over time. don't place your detectors above radiators or near sources of draft like air bricks or vents. ensure any contacted door can be firmly held closed on its catch or lock, as they are the cause the most false alarms, not detectors.

good luck

regs

alan

regs

alan

Hi Guys

I have a 5 bedroom house (3 plus extension underway) and have been looking for a good quality alarm system that I can install myself.

I am considering this unit http://www.brewtime.co.uk/product-detail.asp?d=2370 along with a Call/SMS alert module. (Mabe the USB Wintex adapter as well to make it easier to configure.)

Any comments/thoughts?

If you think education is difficult, try being stupid!!!!

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Guest anguscanplay

hello PThomas

with the cost of that kit and the extras you will need it might be a close to the cost of a fully installed system from a local firm especially if you were to do the first fix wiring yourself

that way you get to work on your own house and fit the cabling in with the other trades plumbers plasterers etc

but save any hassle connecting and programming at the end with a bonus of some sort of engineer support if things go wrong

most firms will give a free quotation ( well for the cost of a cup of tea ) and its something i would seriously consider before spending a sustantial sum of money on a self fit kit

something to think about?

angus

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Thank you both for the comments.

I am installing all electrics in extension as well as plasterboard, plumbing etc. (Building Notice to cover Part P)

I have already purchased an extra 100m reel of 6 core cable and started installing this.

The plan is for:-

2 PIR for kitchen/dining room + 1 door contact

1 door contact for Conservatory (Not installing PIR as felt high temperatures in summer may cause false alarms)

1 PIR for main hall + 1 door contact + panic button + remote keypad with proximity

1 PIR for garage conversion + 1 door contact + panic button

1 PIR for lounge

1 PIR for landing

1 PIR for master bedroom

The extension loft is an unofficial room, this is where I am installing the main alarm panel off a fused spur. Hopefully a CCTV camera will be installed on the front of the house with the recording device also stored in the loft.

Is this a 'good' system?

Is it worth me investing in the USB adapter and Wintex software to allow me to configure the system easier?

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Guest anguscanplay

hi again

without seeing the property it is not possible to give you the definative spec you really need but reading your post is it possible you have over specified the protection

2 PIR for kitchen/dining room + 1 door contact

1 door contact for Conservatory (Not installing PIR as felt high temperatures in summer may cause false alarms)

1 PIR for main hall + 1 door contact + panic button + remote keypad with proximity

1 PIR for garage conversion + 1 door contact + panic button

1 PIR for lounge

1 PIR for landing

1 PIR for master bedroom

the keypad should have a panic built in

are there windows in the garage and why a panic button - might be better with a keypad

could the master bed be reached from outside without coming across the landing anyway

will you always want to enter through the front door

have you any pets

these are just a few of the questions i would be looking at when visiting the property before i did the risk asesment and spec and bear in mind there will be a lot of cable if you do it all in 6core can you get them all back to the c/u without weakening the floor it sounds silly but i have seen it happen

you havnt mentioned soundrs eternal and internal that makes 16 cables plus the mains

the software and usb im not aware of as its not something i have used - all systems are programmable from the keypad

as for been a good system ??????????

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hi again

without seeing the property it is not possible to give you the definative spec you really need but reading your post is it possible you have over specified the protection

2 PIR for kitchen/dining room + 1 door contact

1 door contact for Conservatory (Not installing PIR as felt high temperatures in summer may cause false alarms)

1 PIR for main hall + 1 door contact + panic button + remote keypad with proximity

1 PIR for garage conversion + 1 door contact + panic button

1 PIR for lounge

1 PIR for landing

1 PIR for master bedroom

the keypad should have a panic built in

are there windows in the garage and why a panic button - might be better with a keypad

could the master bed be reached from outside without coming across the landing anyway

will you always want to enter through the front door

have you any pets

these are just a few of the questions i would be looking at when visiting the property before i did the risk asesment and spec and bear in mind there will be a lot of cable if you do it all in 6core can you get them all back to the c/u without weakening the floor it sounds silly but i have seen it happen

you havnt mentioned soundrs eternal and internal that makes 16 cables plus the mains

the software and usb im not aware of as its not something i have used - all systems are programmable from the keypad

as for been a good system ??????????

I mentioned Garage conversion, 3/4 of it is being converted into a clinic room for my wife who is a holistic therapist. It now has an outside door and window, this is not to be used as main exit but I felt a panic button in there for her would be sensible.

We would always use the front door (as we do now).

I have negotiated with Brewtime to pay extra for the Pet friendly PIR's as we have a small dog and cat.

Most of the downstairs cables are now in place and run up through various places into the loft, all have gone through existing holes in joists so far as I removed the existing kitchen ceiling as part of the kitchen extension.

I am aware of notching and drilling regulations for joists and am following these, putting the alarm in the loft has helped as cables can run through various routes to get there.

All of the PIR's were primarily because the kit comes with 10. thought I may as well use as any as possible!

Can anyone tell me if the SMS module for the Texecom alarms can also be used to arm/disarm the alarm (It looks very similar to a keypad)

Also whether you can shut off the siren remotely via a mobile phone for example in case the alarm keeps going off when you are away?

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Can anyone tell me if the SMS module for the Texecom alarms can also be used to arm/disarm the alarm (It looks very similar to a keypad)

Also whether you can shut off the siren remotely via a mobile phone for example in case the alarm keeps going off when you are away?

I take it you mean the standalone speech dialer? If so, it won't act like a keypad, it is a separate unit. The high end dialer (speech and text I think?) should have a couple of outputs on it, so that you can dial in to the unit via mobile phone and toggle the outputs on and off to arm/disarm your alarm, although that isn't recommended (what if someone is actually breaking into your house?)

Trade Member

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hi PTomas,

the detal you adding now is why i say we can't really be accurate for you need without visiting

I mentioned Garage conversion, 3/4 of it is being converted into a clinic room for my wife who is a holistic therapist. It now has an outside door and window, this is not to be used as main exit but I felt a panic button in there for her would be sensible.

i don't pretend to know what a holistic threapist actually do's, but regarding the pab again go for the locking type with a double push action, as people especially kids just love to press buttons, even if it could start a global war 'just to see what it did'.

you might concider a radio pendent pab which she keeps on her person for easy access should there be a problem.

We would always use the front door (as we do now).

I have negotiated with Brewtime to pay extra for the Pet friendly PIR's as we have a small dog and cat.

although pet freindly, whwer cats are involve pay attention to the instructions as you will need to concider if the cat/s can climb onto adjacent surfaces which they all do when you not looking :banned: .

Most of the downstairs cables are now in place and run up through various places into the loft, all have gone through existing holes in joists so far as I removed the existing kitchen ceiling as part of the kitchen extension.

I am aware of notching and drilling regulations for joists and am following these, putting the alarm in the loft has helped as cables can run through various routes to get there.

i would ad here that a loft can vary greately in temperature extremes, so not an alarm panel freindly place usually.

be sure you cables will not be in contact with any hot water pipes, or evetualy the plasic will fail and you will have problems later. you should also not run them in with or close to mains cables - 18" seperation is recommended.

All of the PIR's were primarily because the kit comes with 10. thought I may as well use as any as possible!

Can anyone tell me if the SMS module for the Texecom alarms can also be used to arm/disarm the alarm (It looks very similar to a keypad)

Also whether you can shut off the siren remotely via a mobile phone for example in case the alarm keeps going off when you are away?

i'd have reservations as to remotely switching off/on your system, your voice dialer can contact upto 5 people, and that is the best way to go, you can always advise a keyholder by phone how to place your systm into engineer mode should a serious problem occur.

regs

alan

If you think education is difficult, try being stupid!!!!

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Thanks for the comments.

The loft is going to be a habitable room (Not as far as Planning are concerned) and will have full insulation in the eaves as well as a radiator with thermostat and 2 Velux windows. Hopefully it will be a pretty constant temperature all year round.

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