1animal1

That makes sense - having the same colour pad (chrome/brass etc) can easily be overkill given it's size... in comparison to say a switch. I've looked at the old premier units but the small green screen just looks bit...rubbish. Is that the ones you meant?

So why 4-5 chrome editions and none of the others? Most seem to state that client changed their minds for a white panel or 'not used'. suppose we can hypothesise all day long

I'm under no illusions, don't worry A constant production line of projects is ahead of me (new kitchen, en suite and main bathroom) - going out is very much on the back burner

There seems to be a hell of a lot of Chrome Elite keypads on ebay circa £50-£70 mark, with the description suggestion the clients had changed their mind- do they really look that bad when fitted? I don't think they are for me for our decor tbf, but a lot seem to have specced then changed their mind....

Yup - I hope so too for the person that bought it. Luckily my kits all brand new

I had assumed it was possibly a chap working for a large company. The main board was ex demo, the rest however was sold as brand new which kinda screwed that theory. I didn't obviously do as well with this lot but so far managed £300 for the 24w with the nicer wireless elite pirs 3 of, one DT, 3 wireless door contacts, x-be siren with cover, wireless siren and cover, 2 remotes, 3 prox tags and a few bits like eol resistors, earth sleeve, switched spur etc ... Yet to source the remote pad, another 2 wired pir and ip board. I don't feel I've done too bad considering... Probably saved a night outs beer money against full retail

Yep that's what I thought.... Remote pad too @ £45. He sold the main unit before I could secure, I was gutted as couldn't find anything remotely the same for the money. Total cost including IP module, home control etc, 3x door, 4xpir, 2x bells and remote pad... £350

It's not huge then...probably as you say, deleted through lack of use.

I always thought xenon strobes needed a larger capacitor to provide the end required light compared to an equivalent LED? - used to be a lighting engineer moons ago

That's interesting - presume big drop in the draw with the LED alone over xenon...

Is SCB simply a switch option then in the box? I've always assumed there was a good mark up - not least because when i was about to buy a Pyronix system, the chap was able to supply 2x new pirs and 2x door contacts for £65.... Where as i don't need to tell you the online cost.

Regards the bells - I am connecting up an X-BE bell, wired. So I assume i connect this up as per normal - tamper ring, strobe and bell negative returns and the 12v feed.... I am also connecting an Odyssey wireless - let the system learn this device as usual. My question is (assuming everything above is ok) - Would i bother to assign them as SAB and SCB respectively? I gather not as the current draw from the panel is no longer an issue, given that one of the devices is wireless. If i were to ever convert this to wired for the second box - I assume the SAB/SCB is a switch option inside the bell box itself?

I suppose it's the way of the world - more information available than ever before to do DIY - if they don't do this, another firm will - now if the whole industry (suppliers) stood together, it may preserve things, but lets face it, most suppliers/manufacturers are just looking for growth at any cost. That does look a tad too commercial - but thanks How many other brands can i look at for this, are the connections generally the same? Noted.... £23.50 for what?

I've just read through the installation notes after having them emailed to me by Texecom (also on the software CD apparently - yet to venture). It seems a bit of homework is required regarding the zones and the final settings. I have a front door which will have a contact, leading to hallway PIR where the keypad is situated, these would obviously need -Entry/Exit zone type with Access attribute. The rear door which gets used on occasion requires secondary Entry/Exit with Access attribute (PIR in kitchen where this back door leads will be off unless on full arm which will be rare). The rest of the house would be set to Guard with guard attribute - the variable being the zones included in the daytime or night time part arm. It also looks like the zones default to certain parameters when adding Ricochet devices and various other wired additions - gather as long as I keep tabs on these in my plans when programming, there's no great benefit in reassigning them in numerical order (if possible).

I guess scale is a key part - if you aren't fitting many (on your own or as a larger company) then your experience will be minimal when compared. My methodology here in lieu of experience has been exactly as you have said ,six...same looks but also same brand to maintain continuity. I don't know enough to know whether different brands are compatible and how to remedy if they aren't - figure I'll remove that problem from the equation. On another note - how many idiots on Ebay trying to flog Elite remote panels for £200! A child could google that and find the entire range around the £120 mark (guessing a lot less for trade).

Thanks Norman - gather this will become clear on the PIR instruction leaflet? I've just ordered a Texecom premier elite DT for this job - after debating over the specs of 4 different DT PIR's on their site...how do you guys choose? pick a favourite and stick with it??

Thanks Norman - so just a short trial and error walk exercise...sounds easy enough.

Thanks chaps- is there a specific technique to adjust the MW range? Also - does anyone know if the Texecom DT's come with resistors and also the resistor values required if not? (so i can get them ordered). Or will it be a simple case of a 2K2 across the alarm/tamper and a 4K7 across alarm/alarm terminated at the PIR, as seems to be the standard - each zone (one PIR per zone). My main kit turned up yesterday and included an alarm box and some prox tags too, quite impressed considering they weren't advertised. Had a sneaky hour read through the installation (can only find the Premier Elite 24 guide online as opposed to the 24-W) and quick reference guide (included) - oh my life! This is going to be muchos fun programming quite looking forward to the challenge once I've got it all hard wired in.

That's sealed it then - DT it is ....this one will be hard wired facing the door itself, but into the back of the remote panel which will be in the hallway, mounted on the garage wall.

Fair comment The reason for the question was that in reading, DT's for garages appear to be needed for wind/sudden temp changes/rodents & spiders - so with my garage being largely sealed, I wouldn't have thought it was required, but i suppose where your coming from is - better be safe given the menial extra cost

Thanks chaps - I was going to go for the Texecom mirrored quad @ £13 - the DT's appear to be more than double. No issue in paying the extra if it's worth it - I didn't know if the likelyhood of a fault is a lot higher for a quad or not... I'm also going to have to solder a few wires if utilising the existing cabling - going to solder and heatshrink, any tips before i start.... Gather I would need to test resistance afterwards?

bump....

Strictly speaking, will I need a dt pir for the garage? Spiders are minimal as it is largely sealed. Only consideration is temperature fluctuations due to a wood paneled door

Thanks six, very much appreciated. Next step I think will be to set it all out and do a table install/program, at least for the wireless stuff.... Also fell a bit lucky in not having to rip the newly laid carpets up. Going to use the feeds in place to my old board in the garage as long as the continuity tests come up OK. Save a bit of hassle.

Noted I came across port forwarding a few years ago back, doesn't it circumnavigate the routers own security? How many houses actually have full service like this on average? Is it common or is it a nice to have for the middle/upper classes - I can't honestly ever seeing me needing this unless i have something i really want to protect as the way I see it, by the time they are in and the monitor has gauged that it is a real alarm and called the Police - they'll be gone If you knew my missus you'd understand that one Both are wired via Wintex aren't they? and plug into the main board.... Is the Wifi cheaper due to bigger risk of drops outs linked to the quality of the Texecom product? Noted - 6 or 8 core for the remote panel? I've also called Texecom - the W plate is not compatible with the X cover - presumed that'd be the case but thought i'd check as they look similar on the online pictures