1animal1

Scrap that, found it at the back of the book thanks again swb... You've been extremely helpful

But can you omit two zones from both part sets? And if so, where would you do this?

The full arm will only be used on holidays. The main use will be a part arm in the daytime as we have two dogs at home and a dog walker visiting, so all but the kitchen and living room pirs and back door contact will be on. The second part arm will be bedtime which only needs the 3 door contacts and garage pir on.... I can see how to omit in attributes, but the living room and kitchen need omitting for both part sets... It will only allow me to omit for one or the other

Thanks SWB. I've read through the instructions a few times today. So I'm figuring - if i choose the attribute 'Part 1 Omit' for all the PIR's that i don't want on part arm 1 (everything bar the kitchen and livingroom PIR)- then set an area up for night time in the area suite for all the door contacts and garage PIR - will i be able to apply this area to part arm 2? Edit - based on what you have said - if i set an area up for the daytime, then omit further PIR's from that daytime area for the night time...then that should do what i need too presumably?

Instructions certainly say that you can - It's the next level down I'm confused about. Is it an area of zones I'm limited to 2 with, with the 24W panel, or the area suites - assuming they are different. Gathering without a different code on the same remote panel, arming a 2nd part arm zone is difficult - therefore for night time arming my only other option is to have another pad upstairs or use the pad on the front of the panel - I ideally don't want to fit another pad as the panel is in the airing cupboard next to the master bedroom, therefore the smart key could become useful if you can program the part arm to part arm area B only.

Essentially what I want is this. The most used part will be... Part arm A Part arm A (daytime)... Hall, landing, garage pirs, all 3 door contacts alarmed. Full set.... Obviously everything (default) Part arm B (night time)... Garage pir and all 3 door contacts. Keypad in hall. Want to use prox tags to part arm A/disarm A. Keypad on upstairs main 24w panel, to use smart key to set part arm B for night - or I may fit another pad for convenience - as per your advice previously, these smart keys are a little bit ****... Who wants to turn a remote on before you can use the functions, seems daft.

Can I ask, the two arming suites that I have on the 24w. Does that mean I can set up full arm, daytime and night time? Or is that categorised as 3....

Must admit it does seem that way but you are constantly questioning if it is the same thing or something completely different. I'll give that a go, thanks swb.... If it gets too difficult I'll just wait for the Wintex cable

Damn right would you not agree it's pretty badly written? Or is it because I'm not down with the lingo

swb...That's music to my ears! I've programmed the names in, just trying to work out how to assign singular zones to two separate part arms. Eg the downstairs pirs in the living room and kitchen need omitting for part arm 1 + 2.... Where as attribute 2 only allows kyou to select one or the other... Hoping this is much easier on wintex once my lead turns up

Question, for entry exit pir and door contact. I'm setting Contact as entry 1 and the pir as Guard access. For attribute 1 I presume Access for both... But then Guard suggests you'd use that for Entry exit 1/2.... Confused.

Thanks Lyme, the double delete worked thankfully. Pirs, door contacts and wireless rear siren learnt. Guess I hold off on the fobs until the end? I'm just rattling through the settings for each zone now before I fit

Texecom have given me instructions to delete by pressing reset twice under the zone menu - then try. Failing that, reset the devices through the Engineer Utility menu,

Will do - when i go to Zone setup and scroll back, it starts in the mid twenties and I'm 99% sure they are all free - I'll check that too though. Whilst in the learning mode I've tried several PIR's and Door contact just in case the device was at fault. Am I right to press the learn button on the pir as the battery goes in and then release? and also short the pins on the door contact until it's been learnt? Haven't got my lead through yet for the Ricochet software...

I've gone in through the zone learn to check that (zone 9), and it still shows as being free... is this the best place to check? I'll attempt the delete procedure later when I'm home just in case.

Thanks swb, please believe me when I say I've been through every relevant part of learning in the manual. Noticed the inconstancies in the pages that relate to it and tried the several different methods a few times, resetting the panel to default on every occasion. What I do notice is the default count down does skip from 13 seconds to 3 on the panel.... Tried keeping the learn button pressed on the pir for the full 20 seconds, with and without covers so the tamper is engaged. Tamper jumper on and off the panel. The dip switches were defaulted with 1 on and the rest off... Soon learned that the ricochet won't learn anything with switches 1 or 2 in the up position. The 4th suggests off for a walk test so tried that on and off too... I genuinely am stumped... Will have another look through today to see if I can see anything else

Thanks Al... Seems those darned instructions aren't as clear as one thought I've done the power on to the letter, battery leads, load defaults whilst pressing battery kick, release load default once heatbeat green led kicks in. Engineer code when the panel goes off, engineer code again to enter engineer menu. 240v Power on.. Confirm devices pressing yes twice. Then inserting the jumper on the PCB for commissioning mode. Have all the options set to off (tried with 3 set to on), bridge on the learning points for the door magnet, pressed the learn button as I push the battery in the pir just in case the door contact was faulty... Everything happens as the book suggests right up until it tries to learn. Been going in on zone 9 onwards.... It asks if I want to learn, then runs the 20s count down, then reverts to the last screen asking to learn rather than asking where to learn to... I've tried so many combinations

Can't understand why it would, all 12/24/48W units ship with V2 upwards with the ricochet menu as opposed to the old radio menu don't they?

Pretty sure the premier elite panel has a speaker built in or at least terminals for one? I've powered up today, siren operating as it should... Spent ages trying to get the panel to learn the devices though, I've tried a few things, including the option switches which were set incorrectly and wouldn't learn at all at the start. Now I have the learning options but it won't pick up the devices.... Tried numerous things including learning via the zone set up, going to ring the tech chaps tomorrow as I'm stumped...

It's certainly a possibility James as a secondary business. I was talking to a neighbour today who has just had a system fitted, tech aware like myself but no intention of fitting himself - your market is still intact depending where the suppliers go with the new systems - surely they can only simplify them so much (wireless being your enemy I suspect for ease of fit). Places like this forum will always be available too - do you chaps pick up much business from the forum from people getting stuck and needing that call out? Caring for security... My missus thinks I've spent £200 on all this. Has no clue as to why we need it as apparently our dogs which are isolated in clear view to the kitchen and living room, will scare anyone away. I keep telling her, if someone works out the rest of the house is fair game, then there's no deterrent to leave.... Having someone break in is one thing, giving that person all the time they need to go through what they want and search is entirely another. She still doesn't get it... On that note is it common practice to turn the internal bell off on the main panel, perhaps fit and hide a secondary internal bell, as well as the remote keypato. To point any would be burglar in the wrong direction should they try and find the panel. Also guessing I keep the battery back ups off on both sirens until I'm fully fitted and programmed...

Absolutely, mine is amateur at best compared to a commercial set up. I just figured that it's pointless having an on site hd that isn't secure. The alarm itself is merely a deterrent to pressurise the local scum to leave should they break in. I've now got the box in the airing cupboard which will be losing the tank in the next year or so, so it should be good long term... Wired the spur and panel, have the wired siren installed (backup battery still disconnected on the panel and siren). I've got the line to the keypad set up for when I have sourced that.... Tomorrow's job is to switch the panel on and get the wireless siren, door contacts and pirs learnt. Then fit the rear wireless siren... Maybe try and set a few other bits. Do what I can now in prep for when i get the remote keypad, which will have two wired pirs into the back of it (wires also in place)

Assume no problems fitting the main unit in the airing cupboard? Obviously wanting too avoid the loft and the other hiding place is where my CCTV is... Making it a bumper haul if someone got in (though the CCTV is in a metal cabinet).

Thanks six, I've been running with the ethos of avoiding windows, but that's the one room it was unavoidable...

What do you guys think about pir positioning for 30 foot long room, one end has patio doors leading to conservatory so will have good potential for temp fluctuations in summer. The other end has a bay window half the size. What I don't want however is it going off if say someone looks through the window... This is for a wireless Tex quad

Ah i see.... What i don't get is how the surface mount SMK versions don't protrude hugely given the depth of the FMK back boxes....