arfur mo

just say as yet i have not seen any that match a 500 watt, i'd rate the biggest ones i've seen which i think were 70's as 300 watt ish! ok at 1st floor but a bit narrow and less effective if up in the eaves of a 2 story. if for a client then best warn them, then remmind they are far cheaper to run and should last a lot longer (as long as the case holds out).

one's used recently in a garage were sourced from CEF by the sparks, they were detector floods and worked very well, don't know if i would go higher than say 1st with them. beware they are not cheap for the most powerful ones and best to keep away from Ebay for them. as one's another client bought were just plain dangerous, bordering on lethal.

afaik, when you first boot up main panel and keypad will auto update to which ever has the latest version, now you add an expander and again if that has later siftware then the previous kit is updated. there is also the more traditional update route via download the profile and using UDL, i'm not sure if connected via network the update can be done over the internet directly, i see no real reason why not as long as it has to be instigated from the controls, much like my smart Tv £40 difference in trade cost, it!s aesthetics over the smaller keypad that usually wins over the wives, lets face it most times an alarm is viewed as just another 'boys toy' if not driven by insurance or previous intrusion experience's.

i simply don't agree, i find it a breeze having nice large touch icons instead if the wobbly rubber buttons, only thing i will say is i had to overcome my habit of steadying my hand with my middle finger while typing, but if you really want speed then best lay the touchpad down flat, i tend ti use a PC.

While possible, it is far less likely than a pc as it has no where near the mullions of variation issues to cater for. The advantages being is where older stock is perhaps used, it is brought up to date or catered fir if not possible, when installed. you just have to hope so are the manuals, which is not a strong point of most manufacturers.

tbf Matt, Danny DIY can gook up any panel, it is the pro installer to state that is what you are paying for - i.e. professionalism. the Agility is a very sophisticated bit of kit, but like any kit that is installed poorly will usually result in poor results - simple as,So i suggest stop buying up Danny PJ estates to increase your contract portfolio, whilst moaning with great big crocodile tears that your not making a fast buck out of it, at least call in a trained product specialist professional to put them right - or ho on a training coarse - it 's FREE!

That is real old school, not seen 2 detectors in parallel deliberately installed for many years, but was used early days of motion sensors. no elephant catchers or quads back then, MWD and Ultrasonic 's were king.Principle was if one detector was tripped by a draft, the other stopped the activation, but a large target would trip both at same time. Could also be used for animals, as long as one did not cover stairs as example, better than stuffing large slug on the zone .

it's no different in principle to todays dual-tecs, back then even double knock, beam pairing or programmable panels had not been introduced. For false alarms if you could not find the cause or did not have the time, you installed a 1uf cap to "slug" the zone against intermittent's, idea being by the time that got bad enough that the cap could not overcome, it was easy enough to find on a swing needle meter.. trouble was some guys took it to the extremes, you'd find 1000uf installed, thief could open a door, have a bath, knick the gear well before the bells went off.

think i can claim ti be possibly the first to fit a Pir ind parrellel to an mwd. ///pause for astonishment/// before pir's were the first choice, on Chubbs the AFA MWD was favoured. Well sime chump specified one in the ceiling void. so whats the problem you ask? well this was Ratners Jewellers shop, under the railway line bridge in Southend High Street. Kept truggering surprise surprise, guy would not sign to disconnect it. so i installed what was then a very mew tech Racal 771 pir in parallel. Result was no more false alarms. Suprvisor picks up the report, asked who authorised it - explained - told to remove it, so i said yup! OK, but any calls you cover it. After 6 he asked me to go back and re-fit the pir lol! Anyone know John Chantry? if you do, then you can ask him .

If you come across any old kit and you need help with, feel free to pm me, i might know about it and i'd be happy to share any information i have. looking back, i wish i'd kept some of the old panels i ripped out in upgrades, the skills those guys had. control panels were made on site, from raw materials, they even hand made the relays and wound the coils, the workmanship was just stunning.

Early AFA panel using flags as both control panel power and so called 'end if line' circuit batteries design, had two relays with a mechanical gate latch, this kit was called 'lock block and coffin'. The lock-block in its simplest form had a push button and key the equivilant of todays keypads, the coffin was the end station In the Day position the bell relay was held by the gates interlocking arm, when you set the gate arm was moved away allowing fre movement of the circuit relay, bells or an agro buzzer were rung on exit having git outside user pressed a button to set and silence the bells. if the circuit was broken the circuit relay dropped and as both relays were now de-energised a set if springs on each relay in series, rang the bells. silence was restored with a bush button on the lock block having turned a key to activate it, the adjustment was pretty critical as was those springs being clean it was used by many companies like Rely-A Bell, Brocks, Banhams Etc, but i don't know which had the original design or copywrite.

I know these as Aritec's Advisor 3, had single units or multiplexed versions, also transmitter only units as range expanders. Pretty good by comparison to other kit like AES (which had rubber bands supporting the transducers OMG) in their day tbh, had a little led test module called a 'BDI' - Background Disturbance Indicator, used to 'see' any low level noise. You could change out the transducers, but usually you just had to squeeze up the plugs that connected them to the pcb. (same issue in all the Advisor Range). i proved i could actually hear them, by accurately saying when or off when operated by another engineer testing me, i had the advantage to be able to detect a warbling transmitter, but the disadvantage of extreme discomfort if i was close by, as it was very loud to me. Because any high frequency noise could cause false alarms, you got used to listening/looking for things like escaping air from compressors, time clock, phone bells, door bells etc. even squeaking fans. and thats in too of all the other false alarm causes. happy days lol!

cheeky git , no, looks like a 'home brew' to me.

and possibly fit 'pull up' resistors, should be in the dialler instructions.

breff stated 'coax staple gun', so a tool designed for the job, its boils down to experience, its not like using a club hammer instead of a pinning hammer for 6mm hiats . for a very short period i worked for a company that used staple guns to lace wire sheet panels under hardboard. no way did i want to risk attending to see large hole on door and rusted wire staples with no a tivation .

ditto +1 cable clips get brittle, offer a possible hazard to children chocking on dislodged bits of them, seen the pin not in the holder but forced through the arch. imho any tool in the wrong hands is simply two tools put together by accident - take a neon screwdriver as example lol! or perhaps not

Chris Tarrent ran a show a while back, invited listeners to share their finds after moving into a house, one said she opened the under stairs cupboard to find a URN complete with ashes. he remarks "she could have made an absolute fortune selling it as 'ready break' to the cannibals".

fapmsl git and again fapmsl

qfa,last thing i need is some fat old, wearing nothing but suspenders giving me the come on

lol!

lol!. given i work mainly in domestic, found blue mags, questionable underwear, smelly cricket boxes, loads if 'secret' cash but never ever found sexual toys . one very prim and proper lady, flawed me with a remark. due to me needing access she found some of her husbands porno. showing multi entry sex, one male 'model' had an erect fence post like appendage, on seeing it she calmly remarks 'guess its somewhere to hang his hat'. just hilarious, un-expected reaction lol!

Arfur Thatcher?

as above these panels do like mains on before battery, this means you have little option than to have the panel lid open. please beware of the internal mains fuss block and your straying little pinky. for best safety, disconnect battery remove then restore power from the mains spur fuse unit (or plug) feeding AC power to the controls (that should be near it and marked).

i enforce that rule (as shop steward) on Chubb Eastern, after 2 guys within a month fell asleep at the wheel, during a very heavy lightning spell, which back then you knew you would be out all night. i think only 3 systems nocked out by electrical storms since i started, nothing fried to dust, but knocked silly. suspect if this reduction is down to mainly using polly boxes instead of metal - anyone think the same?

i use red/black for power, but i've seen green white done quit allot, think its a colour consistency preference. i.e. days if 4 core (obviously no G/W) for contacts, 6 core for detectors, so you could maintain the more common 4 core red/black for zone feed out, yellow blue for the zone return on DP systems. today eol means you can feed 3 detectors from an 8 core, commonly brown/orange would be to the furthest device or pab, but maintain green white as power. before anyone shouts and hollers, and gets all snotty, its what i have seen - not what i do.