QSXS

Texecom's are fantastic, but not for a Beginner / Novice. For smart phone control you will need a Smartcom, for SMS a Com2400, You can also fit a speech module. Texecom does have the advantage of a Full Wireless Keypad, but personally, I prefer to fit a wired version and see it alive. Same with the bell, much nicer to be alive. But plan for a world of pain as a beginner. Pyronix have a good reputation, much simpler and cheaper. Some kits also come with a WiFi Module Included. You can also get a wireless setting station or just use the Remote controls. I beleive you can also fit a wired full display Keypad to the enforcer if you wish. I would suggest you go with the Pyronix Enforcer. p.s. Have you considered getting a professional installation quote, because it may just not be worth the hassle doing it yourself. It's more likely to be done right and you have a channel of recourse if it fails to perform. Hope this helps. Ian

This question brought back some memories. I started playing with alarms when I was about 5 years old, started with disassembling a Yellow AND Black Bike Siren that made Police, Ambulance and fire sounds(Anyone remember these?). Being a bit of a hoarder, I still have bits of it. If you are new to electronics, then 555 timers are a great starting point. 556 is a dual version. Also LMC555 and TS555 are CMOS low power versions, so you can use batteries and they will last ages, if you get the circuit right. Your other friend in discrete logic is the HEX Schmitt Trigger CD40106B. You can make timers, clocks, latches, sirens and lots more with these. However, In today's world, you really need to be looking at uC like Atmel & PICs. You can buy an Arduino Micro Pro with a ATmega32U4 for under £5 and has enough processing power to sink a small battleship. At the DIY level, you would need very few parts to build a good alarm system, you can add a £3 ESP8266 to it, and you would have a Wifi enabled system.(But you will need to get good at coding and that's a good skill to have.) On a professional level, alarm systems have a little more to their design than just logic. Most alarms today, used ADC's on there I/O and measure the circuit resistance to be able to detect Tamper, Alarm and Faults. Also components like EMI Filters, ESD and Surge Suppressors. Watchdog and Current Monitoring. On top of this is a whole load of Firmware, Software and Testing. Hope this helps.

I am not saying its not but what is your justification?

To play devils advocate, what does it give you.? Under normal e&e, it's in Access. If you come through the window / hole in the door, possible a few second quicker notification, before ingression into one of the other zones. Possible false alarms from the letter box if fitted. I guess it guards the RKP and would also provide an extra point if alarm conformation is required. Although, I can think of one benefit from a system I did last month, as an Entry trigger in Part Arm that simplifies the functioning when using two Areas and local RKP arming. Without the trigger, the whole system would disarm.

I would be looking as spanning the system across multiple switches, servers and some form of fallback redundancy. So a single Switch / Server fault does not take you whole system down.

You have not shown a contact on the Front Door, I don't know what other think, but I would have the contact on the front door and lose the hall PIR. IMO, it does not offer much value.

Press Chime, The Zone LED should show you which Zone have Chime set, Press the zone number on the keypad to toggle it on/off, Press reset to exit. Let me know if it works. http://www.thesecurityinstaller.co.uk/community/files/file/49-accenta-optima-gen-4-user-manual/ Optima_Compact_User.pdf

I would agree with sixwheeledbeast, best to face inwards, also your plan does not show an radiators,heating ducts, stoves etc, that should also be considered. And, I would be very careful of the PIR in the hall, if you have a letter box in the door. You have not indicated the location of the panel, but if you are putting it in the utility room, it could be at risk of tampering from intrusion by the fitted window. But you would be protecting against a professional. .

When people stop buying Anti Virus sofware, there develop more viruses!

I wonder why that is.

I am quite new to Texecom, but I find Wintex quite good, I would hate to have to program a system by the RKP, But It am get better at it. I am assuming you are talking about a Elite 24 running V3.01. I am assuming you are connecting Z1 to Alarm and Z2 to Tamper, or are you using the AUX Fault for the Tamper? Although, I would question if you have rewired the system, why you are not using the EOL wiring??? )(Unless you have more than 3 Contacts per circuit). The diagnosis is much more intuitive with this configuration. Connect and open the Diagnosis, You can view the all the zone resistances in this window. If you are still stuck, I would be happy to look at your config, just PM me. Also Texecom Support is very good. (assuming you are an installer?)

I disagree that's is less flexible, I would say it more flexible in the terms of (SOFT), the Sheath tends to be thinner, Wire insulation thinner and Wire is more more fragile. There is also OK. CCA and **** CCA, if you must buy CCA, get CQR CCA. As DD says, Just spend the extra fiver on proper copper, it much more robust and forgiving.(As DD), You only need one roll.

So is it working correctly or not? You really need to post pictures. If you are training to be an alarm fitter / engineer, you need to vastly improve your basic electronics and fault finding skills. I am assuming you are employed, if you are, you going to be Sugared, very soon, if you do not get your head around it. I do not know if this is a real job or a training exercise? Is the Sensor New out of a sealed box? Because, if I wanted to test a rookie, I work give them a busted sensor and see if they can fault find it. The AED-0001, has 2 reeds in parallel. If this has been given to you as a test, you might have one of the reeds Open Circuit. Do a magnetic range test. Fix it to the middle of a bit of wood or table, put an ohm meter across the reed terminals(Nothing else). Place the magnet on the left with the tops aligned, As per section 7 of the Installation Instructions(INS324), Very Slowly move the magnet away, keeping the tops aligned. Mark with a pencil, the point the continuity breaks. Now repeat moving it closer again. Stop and mark the point the continuity returns. Now repeat for the other side of the sensor. Now measure the distantes of the make / break marks both sides. Both sides show be similar and should be with the values quoted in Section 7. Come and share you finding on here, also take a picture. This should take not more than 15 Minutes and you will learn a little about the behavior of reed switches, make / break distances and the hysteresis(Google it). If you have a bad reed, the measurements will show it.

Actual, I mentioned in post #2!!!, But I think he had a combination of issues. I also pointed out the Spec for the Gap in post #33 Thats why I was asking what Gaps was and is now. Sorry Bvesh, but you going to get a little stick for it!!

Bvesh, Congratulations.. So how big was the gap? And what is it now?

Bavesh, Again, without wishing to sound rude, this is real basic stuff, you have received a lot of help and advise. As al-yeti put, please upload some pictures or post a link to a video from your phone. You can attach pictures by clicking more reply options in the bottom right corner. What is wrong with: secure 2k2 or Active 6k8? this is what you want? You say different reed, are you sure you do not have a faulty sensor. Pictures...Pictures...Pictures...Pictures...Pictures...Pictures...Please...

I have already posted a lot of help on here for free, but I would check it, advise you, and help you program it, but for a fee. There is little point in spending hundreds on an alarm, then not have it work correctly because of poor installation or Programming.

Most phone do not have 0402's, but 0201 and yes I can solder them by eye, well just(Its my party trick). I make all home project with 0603 and 0402 parts, Its easy, I love SMT. I etch Double Sided PCB's to 5thou, in an ice cream tub, in the kitchen sink! The wife loves me! I can rework BGAs with a Black and Decker! Remember the Motorola 4500X ETACS, think i still have one in shed and mums. On a serious note, you can build a DIY Phone with a few components, if you cheat a little, using a Telit or SIM900 Module, Make a simple PCB with SIM Holder, Mic, Speaker, Keyboard and Display, you have a working phone. Some year ago, a number of the clamshell phones were made like this. Anyway, I wonder how Bvesh, is getting on, he has gone very quiet. I hope he has not connect the shock to the white terminal block, would give a whole new meaning to Shock sensor!

Yes, you can add a RKP to the Enforcer, but I can not help you with other Enforcer Questions as I have never used one. I do believe they are simpler to setup. Check out youtube: Type "pyronix enforcer" Pyronix have some install videos, but it seems that do not have a lot to say about them, appears no one a Pyronix is able to talk!, but the music is nice..

1. Good choice. 2. Yes Texecom are a very good unit. You will be purchasing a EN50131 Grade 2 System, The wireless also meets this standard. 3. You will get over it. 4. Kit 1 is fine. You can purchase a COM2400 for a SMS Notification or Speech Dialler. (Note: this statement usually releases a few worms from the can) But as you are on a budget, you can find a Com2400 on ebay for £15, (Just be informed, Its not a monitored connection and has reports of reliability issues.) Although improved if you use the Opentelecom gateway. But you get what you pay for.. I mentioned the Programming Issues. The Texecom is a very powerful and flexible system with hundreds of settings. I do not know your background, but if you are prepared to RTM and Play about, there is no reason you should not get it working. 6. In your application, do not worry about it. I mean, do not run them in parallel or tape alarm cables to mains cables but crossing over, passing through the same hole etc, will be fine.

Datadiffusion, I try to justify this to customers, but it just does not register. The only time the consumer starts to take security seriously is after they have been burgled or a close friend. Lets say the average professional alarm cost £800 - £1000, Its still only 0.5% of a £200K house. Spending £35/M for 24 Month on a IPhone, no one even see it as an issues, even if they have very little money, Most Gym Memberships get paid and people do not even go. The Alarm is a one off cost that will last many years + Small Maintenance and Monitoring fee if taken. The consumer also misses the additional benefits of the risk assessment and advise on Better Locks, Security Lighting, Fencing etc.

That would be telling, A big Multi Billion Dollar Automotive one.

The voltages you quote are the working voltages, the actual insulation voltage for 1.0mmT&E would be >7KV, The only time safety comes into play, is if the insulation was damaged. Say you pass them though the same hole in a joist, then put a screw through them, the panel is not going to like it. But the alarm cable outer insulation alone should be good for 300V. The Double insulation is for both Electrical Insulation and Mechanical Protection. Screening will help with RF Immunity, but not inductive coupling. Inductive coupling is best solved by Distance, Twisted Pairs or Steel Conduit.

As for keeping cables apart, it not so much for Electrical Insulation, both Mains and alarm wire are double insulated. Its to reduce electromagnetic interference by inductive coupling, which could cause false alarms, but it is rarely an issue in IMO.,unless you have some big high current items on the end of the circuits.

I would look at the Texecom 48-W Kit2, should fit in your budget. http://www.texe.com/uk/products/series/wireless-kits/premier-elite-series/ The Panel supports 48 Zones. I think there is 4 Hard writeable zones in the Main Panel + 2 More in the Keypad (RKP) Richocet is 2 way wireless and builds connections on a Mesh network. It will also support Wifi with a module CEK-0001 Premier Elite ComWiFi The only concern I would have is over the programming. These are a pro grade system, There is a lot of options and setting to get your head around.