WDT
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Posts posted by WDT
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I noticed the header, I am not sure if i should be glad or upset i dont have a custom header
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Hi and welcome
dont worry about your typing it keeps the admin and mod guys busy
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I don't know if to laugh or cry on the 12 core subject,
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On the pir's lets go with zone connection on alarm contact next to the power connection and the other zone connection goes the other end off the block where it says tamper the two connections in the middle are unused as you have a resistor setup and are not using double pole
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I hope this makes sense
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Ok as for the magnet if it reads 2k2 secure then this is only seeing the tamper resistor and not the reed one.
I would first check the reed works with a multimeter on the reed contacts and then open the door and recheck the resistance with no resistor fitted it will be out range (door Open) and 0.00 ( door closed)
If you leave the resistor in it will be 0.0 door closed and 4700 ohms (door open)
Hope this helps
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They do need to go in the correct ones and you are right it is one in each which pirs do you have??
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Also thinking what zone resistance are you getting this would help the experts,
it might even help me
The magnet/reed could be tested with a multimeter on ohms check what readings you get with the door open at the contact then shut the door and recheck with no resistors fitted in will be out of range with the door open and 0.00 ohms with the door shut
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I would say its the way you have wired the door contacts as you have the reed output ( Door Magnet ) tamper output ( case removed ) and also a vibration output.
If you put the 4k7 resistor in the contact conections and the 2k2 resistor from the contact connection to a tamper connection
Then connect the zone wires, one in the "spare" tamper connection and one in the contact connection with only one resistor leg in. this will make the door contact work but not the vibration.
I am not a site expert or any kind off expert
but I would put the vibration on another zoneNow if you are going to go with vibration on the same zone
Ok so lets say put a zone wire into top connection reed switch with a resistor 4k7 between both reed switch connections, then a link wire to the bottom alarm wire with a 4k7 resistor between both alarm connections, then the 2k2 resistor between the alarm ( not the one with the wire link in the one with) and the bottom tamper connection and the other tamper connection to the other zone connection.
Also the cover will need to be on when you test it
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Hi and welcome
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err, the 1st post has been edited, so what ever Pete thought discriminated has been removed.
I'd assume a simple term like - "man wanted aged 21+"
I would have put fit young blond with multi skills 21 - 30 can work well with hands
Apologies for offending anybody there with the term multi skilled.
Still Looking for somebody to cover this area, I cannot PM you guys as I'm so new to the group plus I'm cautious of putting my email or telephone number up just incase a get told off again.
I belive 5 posts gets you P.Ms
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Nice door, Need to get the contract to fit them and make some money
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If oldguy wanted everything back at the panel he just don't use the keypad zones.
the texecom panel has a onboard expander that can be fitted in side the panel so it will give him 16 zones if then he wanted, He could add a extenal expander at a later time making the zone count to 24,
But it looks like 16 will cover his needs at the moment.
or he could go for a galaxy
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The texecom 24 control panel has 8 on board zones in the control and each keypad has a further 2 zones,
So control and keypad gives you 10 zones
control and two key pads gives you 12 zones
You could put a expander in the control panel making the panel have 16 zones plus the keypad ones
example zones 1 - 8 in control panel
zone 9 -16 expander
17 and 18 keypad 1
19 and 20 keypad 2
I hope this makes sense
It looked good to me
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Hi Matt
Welcome to the site.
I am looking at alarm master you can go to there web site and download a trial once you have given them your details with a one month trial, if you like it theres a discount for the first year
Wayne
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Hi and welcome, I was going to be clever and do this whole post in french but to be honest i only know bonjour,
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I saw one of them the other day I will have a look tommorow but will need a new battery as it must be 900 years old.
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Hi and welcome
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They are but there is better availible. The local ford dealer throws in free floor mats, you have to pay for them at the local BMW Garage
As with most things in life, you get what you pay for...
I just checked Ford with free car mat's is number 7 in reliabilty yet Bmw who charge you for mat's are number 28.
So I would spend my money on a more reliable ford.
Good news BMW are not at the bottom as there is 39 manufacturer's
I was going to post a link but was not sure if i was allowed.
Please don't bit my head off. But I would rather have a ford that works then a bmw that breaksdown ( Just saying
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Montex issue ??
Do you mean setting up?
If you put nothing on com port one it should still work.
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Hi
Check in wintex you have the Ip address and port number set the same as the panel and com ip address in the Edit account (panel details)
In wintex check your UDl password in the comms section options is set to the same as your panel.
Have you set up you panel with the com IP on com port 2 and is it programed in the panel and check your UDL passcode in your panel.
Was the panel powered down when you connected it. It is sometimes worth to power the panel down and back up.
I know someone is going to say why com port 2 (becouse I like that one)
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not on a combo it doesn't,I left ignition on to charge my phone yesterday while I pottered around the front garden,aa van here this morning as the battery was flat and it wouldn't start
I have two 12v sockets one is live all the time. I use the one thats live to charge things like my phone. modified a halfords one with a live taken from the battery (via a Fuse) No ign on, van can be locked as well.
With the ign on your current drain/draw is at about 3.5 to 5 amps some times more, The landrover range rover is 9 amps. but does have a 950 amp 110 ah AGM battery.
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Yep we know that, it would be nice to be able to listen to the radio for half an hour without starting the engine. And have interia lights that will stay on for more than 30 seconds on a bad day.
Some one has lost the plot on how vans are used.
Only the french have lost the plot. they seem to be the only ones at the moment with eco mode. If you breakdown put your windows up if they are electric as after it goes into eco mode you end up with open windows untill its fixed ha ha ha ha
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I expect a van of that size to have a type 017 battery, but I don't see that being an issue here anyway.
I was referring to current of the LED's regarding using the existing wiring feed, so not to overload the loom.
LED's should take less current than the existing festoon type bulb if you are to replace that.
I was expecting to use a car type battery and not an SLA for the split charge setup.
This is worth pointing out a split charge unit is designed for two automotive batteries and not our SLA's
I agree I would be looking at using the existing battery over another battery myself.
I still wouldn't worry about the battery as long as the lights aren't accidentally left on for days.
Just for future reference have a Kemo M102 module plugged into my cigarette socket to charge my DIY test monitor SLA batteries.
I still think for van lighting wiring off the vehicle would be best.
I may have miss read I thought someone was trying to use a 7ah SLA battery with a split charge. Speed reading not my thing
Also if you try hard enough you can sqeeze a 019 battery on a renault traffic or vauxhall vivaro but i wouldn't bother I fitted an AGM 096 it is a better battery. My wifes focus ST has one on now as well. I am with AGM like people are with galaxy
As for the loom, You could use a relay to make sure you don't over load the circuit,loom or the BCM ( french call it UCH but it the same thing)
But like you said take the bulb out and make sure the current is the same or less and the will be no fear of an over load. If you do use a relay it may show a fault in the diagnostics in BCM
The other option is buy a new ford transit custom with dual battery that self jump starts it self and had led lights already fitted in the back
ha haI have the same van and the eco mode does my head in , can't see how eco friendly it is when instead of just using the battery I then start the engine to have some lights and music on!
Transits were good for keeping things running , just had to watch it didn't flatten the battery.
Happened once in my old combo van. 3rd party radio sometimes didn't turn off as the key barrel was shot and sometimes didn't turn the ignition off even with the key out.
Eco mode is to stop you making the battery flat, It maybe should be called wally mode
but its not fool proof -
Hi
As led's use very low current and if the van and battery are in good shape and is a 096 battery which most renault nissan and vauxhall vans are the ah rating is up near 60 to 70ah and a led strip uses little current but you could measure it to see the amout it uses. how long will they be on with out the engine running.
Also I suspect even using a split charge relay with a alternator able to push out 90-150 amps will damage the battery. I would buy a proper charger for that type off battery even if its one that plugs in to the 12v socket on your van.
A quick fact if you use jump leads from a car to a motorbike battery with the car running it will damage the bike battery. ( I supect the same will happen to a security battery )
If it was me I would fit the led's and connect up but use the main battery power and possible up grade the van battery to a AGM 096 these have about 800 amp cranking power and 90ah. I will be amazed if you even make it go flat with just an led strip running at 1/2 amp looking quickly at a set i found
Texecom Premier Install Trouble!
in !!..DIY Installers..!!
Posted
Yep
Is the keypad near to either door as there are two zone inputs on the keypad that you could use for either front or rear door that would then give you ten zones
i.e
Zone 1 on keypad door contact
Zone 2 on keypad vibration circuit