thedcman Posted March 3, 2009 Author Share Posted March 3, 2009 Hi I am rather reluctant to start pulling out wires as for one they are a lot of wires and they do not seem to be very tidyly done, and it seems to be a bit of a tricky business trying to re-insert those wires back into their holes. I would probably do more damage than is there already. The tamper switch seemed quite OK when I did the test i.e it did not look or feel as if it was sticking when I pressed it during the test, and when it is free it does not seem to jump around. I will probably repeat the tests when my partner is around to confirm the readings etc. I think if the reading are similar and Ok after repeating the tests I will just ring an installerand try to explain in detail what advice I have had and what I have done, and then get a decent service and test diagnosis done. I will then let you know what the final outcome is. Thanks again for your advice and patience. . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest old-hand Posted March 3, 2009 Share Posted March 3, 2009 HiI am rather reluctant to start pulling out wires as for one they are a lot of wires and they do not seem to be very tidyly done, and it seems to be a bit of a tricky business trying to re-insert those wires back into their holes. I would probably do more damage than is there already. The tamper switch seemed quite OK when I did the test i.e it did not look or feel as if it was sticking when I pressed it during the test, and when it is free it does not seem to jump around. I will probably repeat the tests when my partner is around to confirm the readings etc. I think if the reading are similar and Ok after repeating the tests I will just ring an installerand try to explain in detail what advice I have had and what I have done, and then get a decent service and test diagnosis done. I will then let you know what the final outcome is. Thanks again for your advice and patience. . Anything in here showing on the keypad then? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thedcman Posted March 21, 2009 Author Share Posted March 21, 2009 Hi I finally got around to doing the battery measurements again, and they are all similar to those that I last reported on the 3rd March. This time, I also did the SAB and AUX (as per your guide on DIY servicing) measurements and these were as follows Power + Battery : SAB 13.62 AUX 13.68 AT 6.8 ohms Battery only : SAB 12.62 AUX 12.66 AT 6.8 The reason why I have not done the measurements until now is because since I last wrote on the 3rd of March, the problem has not re-occurred at anytime . When I had opened the panel on the 3rd March, I had put some WD40 on a serviette and had then rubbed the serviette over the anti-tamper spring before I closed the control panel. I do not know whether I had inadvertently cured the problem by doing this or not or even if the spring was the cause of the problem, but as I said, the tamper event has not re-occurred since the 3rd. P.S: Today, I have also had a closer look at the Tamper circuits and in fact there appears to be only 1 set of blue/white wires going to the control panel AT terminals. I am not sure which circuit the one connected to the AT terminals is for, but I have another 4 sets of blue/white wires and each of these combination/set is just left hanging i.e they are not connected to anything. Anyone any other ideas...? else I will just get a new battery for when the old one really goes and unless it happens again, assume that the anti-tamper spring was just sticking occasionally and causing the problem. Anyway, hopefully it has gone away now. If it does come back I will just ring and installer, tell him the history and get it resolved. I will also upgrade the panel with some monitoring options at a later date. and Thanks for all your help and advice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rulland Posted March 21, 2009 Share Posted March 21, 2009 The panel hsa a 'global tamper' ie all the tamper wires from the devices should be wired in 'series' and then two cores go to the AT terminal. In other words-goes from the panel to the first device and back-that back is connected to the next out etc until the last return into the panel again. All those sets of blue/white wires-if they are connected at the devices-should register a very low resistance in the region of 1-5 ohms-dependent on the distance-ie just a 'loop' of two cores-if they are all connected series the total will be all values added up-for arguments sake 23 ohms. Sounds like for some reason the majority of tampers havn't been connected-again usually lack of knowledge on how you put x amount of wires into two terminals!. Richard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thedcman Posted March 25, 2009 Author Share Posted March 25, 2009 Hi Richard Thanks for the info. I am not technical so I would not know how to wire anything in series. Is there a piece of equipment i.e like say an electricians block that you buy that makes this easy to do, or do I just join all the blue wires to each other and similarly for the whites.... Also, am I really missing any protection by leaving the wires as they are..i.e should the wires be really joined in series for optimum performance and detection? Like I said previously though, I think I would probably do more damage messing around with all the wires in the control panel, but I am just interested in how it should have been done and how to do it. . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rulland Posted March 25, 2009 Share Posted March 25, 2009 Every detection circuit PIR/contact or whatever should be monitored for 'tamper'-the name gives it away as to why!. see attached as to how it should be wired. Global_Tamper.doc If only one device is connected to the panel tamper then only one device will be monitored-makes sense? . Richard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thedcman Posted March 26, 2009 Author Share Posted March 26, 2009 Hi That document definitely makes sense and seems quite easy to do, so the original engineer should have done it. I may try after I think about it. thanks again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lawandorder Posted March 26, 2009 Share Posted March 26, 2009 HiThat document definitely makes sense and seems quite easy to do, so the original engineer should have done it. I may try after I think about it. thanks again. Obvioulsy I'm only guessing but is it possible that this intermittent tamper problem has been ongoing for some time and a previous engineer had disconnected most of the tampers in an effort to isolate the problem? In one of your posts you refer to a resistance reading of 6.8 ohms. Are you able to tell which detector is fed from that particualr circuit? If it's only 1 PIR it sounds a very high reading though there could be an innocent explanation for it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thedcman Posted March 29, 2009 Author Share Posted March 29, 2009 hi Lawandorder When I did the AT reading, I did not disconnect the wires from the AT terminal as I think you had suggested, so this may account for the higher reading. Also, I did some reading on the DVOM from a book I got from the library, and it seems my DVOM does not have a REL switch which is supposed to enable it to give a reading that takes into account the resistance of the DVOM's black and red leads. In fairness however, I am not too concerned about the tamper wires now as the problems seems to have gone away and has not re-occurred, so I am prepared to let this problem rest until I decide to upgrade the system. Also, I am really reluctant to start fiddling around inside with the wires anyway. Thanks again for all your help and patience. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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