Hi

I am rather reluctant to start pulling out wires as for one they are a lot of wires and they do not seem to be very tidyly done, and it seems to be a bit of a tricky business trying to re-insert those wires back into their holes. I would probably do more damage than is there already.

The tamper switch seemed quite OK when I did the test i.e it did not look or feel as if it was sticking when I pressed it during the test, and when it is free it does not seem to jump around.

I will probably repeat the tests when my partner is around to confirm the readings etc. I think if the reading are similar and Ok after repeating the tests I will just ring an installerand try to explain in detail what advice I have had and what I have done, and then get a decent service and test diagnosis done.

I will then let you know what the final outcome is.

Thanks again for your advice and patience. .

Hi

I am rather reluctant to start pulling out wires as for one they are a lot of wires and they do not seem to be very tidyly done, and it seems to be a bit of a tricky business trying to re-insert those wires back into their holes. I would probably do more damage than is there already.

The tamper switch seemed quite OK when I did the test i.e it did not look or feel as if it was sticking when I pressed it during the test, and when it is free it does not seem to jump around.

I will probably repeat the tests when my partner is around to confirm the readings etc. I think if the reading are similar and Ok after repeating the tests I will just ring an installerand try to explain in detail what advice I have had and what I have done, and then get a decent service and test diagnosis done.

I will then let you know what the final outcome is.

Thanks again for your advice and patience. .

Anything in here showing on the keypad then?

Hi

I finally got around to doing the battery measurements again, and they are all similar to those that I last reported on the 3rd March.

This time, I also did the SAB and AUX (as per your guide on DIY servicing) measurements and these were as follows

Power + Battery : SAB 13.62 AUX 13.68 AT 6.8 ohms

Battery only : SAB 12.62 AUX 12.66 AT 6.8

The reason why I have not done the measurements until now is because since I last wrote on the 3rd of March, the problem has not re-occurred at anytime .

When I had opened the panel on the 3rd March, I had put some WD40 on a serviette and had then rubbed the serviette over the anti-tamper spring before I closed the control panel. I do not know whether I had inadvertently cured the problem by doing this or not or even if the spring was the cause of the problem, but as I said, the tamper event has not re-occurred since the 3rd.

P.S:

Today, I have also had a closer look at the Tamper circuits and in fact there appears to be only 1 set of blue/white wires going to the control panel AT terminals. I am not sure which circuit the one connected to the AT terminals is for, but I have another 4 sets of blue/white wires and each of these combination/set is just left hanging i.e they are not connected to anything.

Anyone any other ideas...? else I will just get a new battery for when the old one really goes and unless it happens again, assume that the anti-tamper spring was just sticking occasionally and causing the problem.

Anyway, hopefully it has gone away now. If it does come back I will just ring and installer, tell him the history and get it resolved. I will also upgrade the panel with some monitoring options at a later date.

and Thanks for all your help and advice.

The panel hsa a 'global tamper' ie all the tamper wires from the devices should be wired in 'series' and then two cores go to the AT terminal.

In other words-goes from the panel to the first device and back-that back is connected to the next out etc until the last return into the panel again.

All those sets of blue/white wires-if they are connected at the devices-should register a very low resistance in the region of 1-5 ohms-dependent on the distance-ie just a 'loop' of two cores-if they are all connected series the total will be all values added up-for arguments sake 23 ohms.

Sounds like for some reason the majority of tampers havn't been connected-again usually lack of knowledge on how you put x amount of wires into two terminals!.

Richard.

Hi Richard

Thanks for the info.

I am not technical so I would not know how to wire anything in series.

Is there a piece of equipment i.e like say an electricians block that you buy that makes this easy to do, or do I just join all the blue wires to each other and similarly for the whites....

Also, am I really missing any protection by leaving the wires as they are..i.e should the wires be really joined in series for optimum performance and detection?

Like I said previously though, I think I would probably do more damage messing around with all the wires in the control panel, but I am just interested in how it should have been done and how to do it.

.

Every detection circuit PIR/contact or whatever should be monitored for 'tamper'-the name gives it away as to why!.

see attached as to how it should be wired.

Global_Tamper.doc

If only one device is connected to the panel tamper then only one device will be monitored-makes sense? .

Richard.

Hi

That document definitely makes sense and seems quite easy to do, so the original engineer should have done it. I may try after I think about it.

thanks again.

Hi

That document definitely makes sense and seems quite easy to do, so the original engineer should have done it. I may try after I think about it.

thanks again.

Obvioulsy I'm only guessing but is it possible that this intermittent tamper problem has been ongoing for some time and a previous engineer had disconnected most of the tampers in an effort to isolate the problem?

In one of your posts you refer to a resistance reading of 6.8 ohms.

Are you able to tell which detector is fed from that particualr circuit?

If it's only 1 PIR it sounds a very high reading though there could be an innocent explanation for it.

hi Lawandorder

When I did the AT reading, I did not disconnect the wires from the AT terminal as I think you had suggested, so this may account for the higher reading.

Also, I did some reading on the DVOM from a book I got from the library, and it seems my DVOM does not have a REL switch which is supposed to enable it to give a reading that takes into account the resistance of the DVOM's black and red leads.

In fairness however, I am not too concerned about the tamper wires now as the problems seems to have gone away and has not re-occurred, so I am prepared to let this problem rest until I decide to upgrade the system.

Also, I am really reluctant to start fiddling around inside with the wires anyway.

Thanks again for all your help and patience.