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lawandorder last won the day on April 30 2015

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About lawandorder

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  1. Can you post a picture of the "sound box" or do you know what make and/or model it is?
  2. QFA Whatever caused the tamper (the sound box being knocked) needs putting back properly beofre the tamper will clear. There is probably a tamper switch on the box which isn't getting pressed properly. Sort that out then press the reset button.
  3. As above you only need two wires if using FSL. One resistor "shunt resistor" is connected across the alarm contacts one end of the "end of line" resistor is connected to one of the alarm contacts, the other end of the "end of line" resitor is connected to one of your wires. Your remaing wire connects to the other alarm contact (the one with only one resistor wire connected. Who said a picture paints a thousand words? Give him a medal!
  4. Yes probably, if turning one breaker off temporarily silences it but it starts again without switching the breaker on then it does sound like it's running from the battery, or at least it is during the time the breaker is off. It's not clear how confident you are to "have a go" but you could try turning the breaker off then disconnecting the battery in the main panel. Re-connect and try your code. If the system has crashed this may be all it will need to restore harmony but still worth having a professional once over.
  5. I'm no expert with Scantronic Mosaics, I missed those and from what I've heard I'm glad I did! Sounds to me like you may have a mains failure to the panel and the external battery is running low as well. All I would suggest is that you check that there is a mains supply to the panel.
  6. When you measured this voltage what was it reffered to? In other words if you put one meter probe on the fuse where did you put the other one. I suspect your battery may be a bit iffy and could be dragging the power supply down. Measure voltage across the aux outut terminals on the PCB, it should be 13v give or take. If it is low try again with the battery disconnected but the mains connected. (obviously beware of mains voltages within the panel etc etc...)
  7. The tamper light indicates when a tamper circuit is active, the tamper circuit protects the panel, the external sounder, all the detectors and door contacts along with all the wiring and any other periphial devices. On some panels these devices are indicated separately so you can narrow down the problem but with the logic 4 you onlya have one indicator for everything. To properly diagnose it you need a multimeter and a few basic hand tools and the confidence to use them. If you're up for the challenge I will talk you through narrowing it down, if you're not confident get a pro in.
  8. The above test results are very helpful, the significant one is Hold+ to Trg which should be ov when the panel is unset and roughly 12 volts when the alarm is triggered. Your test proves that the panel is working properly. It's not clear whether you did these measurements at the panel or at the sounder but if you did the test at the panel repeat it at the sounder, if you get the same results it suggests the sounder is either faulty or there is a link which you haven't set properly on the sounder. If the test differs from the one you did at the panel. (you don't get 12v between Hold+ and Trg) it suggests that there is a fault on the Trg core of the cable which runs between the panel and the sounder. Might be worth wiring the sounder up temporarily on a short peice of cable close to the panel until you get it working.
  9. Yuasa certainly used to be the battery of choice for all the national companies I ever worked for and they still seem to be the most popular choice. Texecom also supply batteries and I have used them and cannot really say they are any different from Yuasa, whether Texecom actually make them or whether they just re-badge somebody elses I don't know.
  10. No it wasn't from Texecom direct, I just googled Texecom Excel PCB and there it was
  11. Yes you can, many panels (the Texecom Veritas for example) can be programmed for use with double pole wiring so no resistors required. FSL wiring with resistors is far more secure though and you only need a 4 core cable to a PIR instead of a 6, also with maby panels you get more diagnostic information at the panel by using FSL wiring.
  12. Excel PCB less than 24 quid inc vat (available to public)
  13. The resistors do need to be compatible with the panel. Different makes of panel do use different values of resistor but if you replace your existing panel like for like you won't have to replace the resitors.
  14. I agree, as long as you are able to fit it yourself this would be cheaper than getting an engineer out and you get to keep control. Get a replacemnt PCB and use your exisiting keypads etc
  15. I think what everone who has replied is saying is that when you open the panel the alarm will sound, you will be able to silence it using a user code but it is possible that the panel has been programmed for engineer reset on tamper which means you will not be able to use the system again without an engineer code. Another feature of this panel is the ability to lock the engineer code so even if you try to restore it to factory settings the engineer code will still be locked. Personally I did used to lock engineer codes but I didn't enforce engineer reset on tamper. Obviously it's impossible for us to say how the original installer programmed the system, he may have left it wide open, many do especially electricians who just fit the occasional alarm and who don't want to change the programming any more than needed from the factory defaults. My advice would also be suck it and see, worst case you will have to get an engineer out but if you don't try you will have to get one to fit your dialler anyway.
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