Guest anguscanplay Posted April 30, 2008 Share Posted April 30, 2008 try power cycling the the system first, a bad battery can lock out the cpu mains off battery off count to 47 (the alarm should be sounding outside at this stage) mains on battery on CLOSE all lids etc try code good luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaDProFF Posted April 30, 2008 Author Share Posted April 30, 2008 hmm so there is a tamper switch in the bell box, I will look at that tomorrow, If I had a wiring diagram it would help, as I dont know if the tamper switch wires go out of the key pad panel to the main box, there are 4 wires to the panel, I would test the switch except it is not east to get to on the panel, I would have to lift the pcb off the mounting plastic clips. Again thanks for the replies Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaDProFF Posted April 30, 2008 Author Share Posted April 30, 2008 try power cycling the the system first, a bad battery can lock out the cpumains off battery off count to 47 (the alarm should be sounding outside at this stage) mains on battery on CLOSE all lids etc try code good luck all ready done that, (though maybe not 47 :)and actually I have had the tamper light off a couple of times but it comes back on after a short while, The alarm does sound, and it dials out, when I DC battery and turn off power, I was wondering if the new battery low on charge needs to charge up over night or something?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lawandorder Posted April 30, 2008 Share Posted April 30, 2008 If I put a meter across the white wire on the TR and 12v red, I get 12v on the meter, though would it not make a difference with the Main Panel cover off as there is a tamper switch on that as well? if I am correct I have 4 tamper switches, keypad, dialer, bell box, and main panel, the only one I have looked at is the bell box, will do that tomorrow in day light.I don't really understand how the tamper circuit works, clearly not an in series circuit, anyone would like to elaborate. you have a feed to a switch, and one returning? The test you have already done has eliminated the bell box as the cause so dont get your ladder out just yet. The bell tamper works as you suggest, a negative return comes back from the bell box so as long as the panel can see a negative on the TR that particualr tamper circuit is fine. If the panel switch isn't clicking I would suggest it is suspect, you should be able to check it with multimeter set to measure resistance but power the panel down mains and battery first, not just for safety but also because any voltage present may give misleading results. Also check the resisatnce of the tamper wirng which comes from any detectors and the dialler, it should be a low reading, this reading will depend on the length of cable runs but will probably be less than 20 ohms in the average domestic. Hope this helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rulland Posted May 1, 2008 Share Posted May 1, 2008 Hi, The only tampers that are usualy in series is the 'global tamper' but this is normally all the detetion circuits only (unless the system has been botched). The KP, bell and panel are seperate- you need to be able to work on the system-when in engineer mode tampers are generally not monitored, thus allowing an engineer to work on it. But any one or more of the above at any time will give a tamper warning. Richard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaDProFF Posted May 1, 2008 Author Share Posted May 1, 2008 Oh well, I have checked the keypad, and the tamper switch is switching ok on both sides, it is a 2 pole switch, tested with multi metre. I also have a shock detector and the red led was not flashing, so i checked that, power to it, tamper again ok, it is flashing now, i even linked it out in the main control panel as I knew what zone it was, zone 6, still made no difference, tamper light still on, suppose need to go look at the bell box now, though as others have said, i got a 12v return, and it certainly goes off when I D/C the mains and battery Next suggestions please Is there any way I can bypass the tamper switch in the main control box so I can test the zones with out having to put it all back together, Suppose I ought to Down Load the instructiosn see how to get it into engineer mode, dont suppose anyone has a link Sorry about all this, just don't like to be beaten Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chorlton Posted May 1, 2008 Share Posted May 1, 2008 Oh well, I have checked the keypad, and the tamper switch is switching ok on both sides, it is a 2 pole switch, tested with multi metre.I also have a shock detector and the red led was not flashing, so i checked that, power to it, tamper again ok, it is flashing now, i even linked it out in the main control panel as I knew what zone it was, zone 6, still made no difference, tamper light still on, suppose need to go look at the bell box now, though as others have said, i got a 12v return, and it certainly goes off when I D/C the mains and battery Next suggestions please Is there any way I can bypass the tamper switch in the main control box so I can test the zones with out having to put it all back together, Suppose I ought to Down Load the instructiosn see how to get it into engineer mode, dont suppose anyone has a link Sorry about all this, just don't like to be beaten We are not able to provide any information on engineering mode aspect or wher to obtain them, sorry it's in the forum rules http://www.thesecurityinstaller.co.uk/Content/rules.asp , 10.4. C. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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