jacknicmeg Posted April 7, 2008 Share Posted April 7, 2008 Hi all, First post, just registered. I have recently moved into a new house which has a very outdated Aritech CP32 Burglar Alarm. Having had the local company in to quote for an upgrade ( Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antinode Posted April 7, 2008 Share Posted April 7, 2008 Sounds like a total bodge up to me, no professional installer would fit a system like that. I would re-cable the lot. The chances of you getting it up and running like that are not brilliant. RE programming, the Texecom manuals are excellent at explaining how to do the installation and programming side of things. Trade Member Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iSTORM Posted April 8, 2008 Share Posted April 8, 2008 I agree with antiniode, i know exactly what they have done in the loft if it's controling an out side light be aware that the relay is 240Volts and risk of an elecrtic shock is possible! I'n all honesty you dont know if there are any junction boxes hidded away that may then change the colour code of the wireing at the CP end! Even if there are not, what will you do when it comes to finding any faults....... Get an engineer in? Why not get a couple more quote's for a new wired system at least you will have peace of mind and a warranty! My Name is Iain iStorm Security Solutions Visit My Website Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C.S TEK. Posted April 8, 2008 Share Posted April 8, 2008 You came here for advice Advice = Spend the Trade Member As Mr Kingswood said "Dont forget the 6 P's when installing.....Proper Preperation Prevents P*** Poor Performance!!!" John Kingswood(alais Nobby), Paul Earl Ltd 1985-2006 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
breff Posted April 8, 2008 Share Posted April 8, 2008 I've got to agree with everyone else, I think you would be best to get an engineer in. If you are sticking with the premier24 why not fit an expander in the loft, it will enable the existing shocks to be split onto seperate zones. The opinions I express are mine and are usually correct! (Except when I'm wrong)(which I'm not) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacknicmeg Posted April 8, 2008 Author Share Posted April 8, 2008 A quick question, On my shock sensor I have two connections to the actual sensor the four other connections called T - T and two called SPARE. In reverse... The shock sensor on the patio has a yellow and a blue connected to it. The cable then runs to the magnetic contact and the YELLOW is cut. The yellow FROM the shock sensor is connected to one end, the yellow from the other cable going to the CP is joined to the other end of the magnetic contact. The blue is not cut and continues to the other door (detail below) and all other wires are cut and not used. The same cable (Yellow & Blue) then runs to another Shock sensor, this time the yellow connects to the shock SENSOR and my blue to the T where it joins an off cut cable which the red connects to one end of the magnetic contact. The other end of the off cut on the magnetic strip then goes yellow which connects to the SPARE joining a blue cable to the other SHOCK sensor. On the same (NEW) cable the YELLOW is connected to the other end of the shock sensor then moves onto the next, so moving to the next SHOCK sensor on the NEW cable is a Blue and a Yellow. All other wires are cut and not used. Hoping your all still with me... The cable then runs off to the kitchen en-route to the CP but before it gets there it joins TWO other cables, one connected to a SHOCK Sensor and the other to the CP. For all the above wiring this is called INCOMING. The wires are connected as follows: Cable FROM the CP has a YELLOW which is connected to my INCOMING YELLOW, a RED which is connected to my INCOMING BLUE then all the others in the following order go to the other single Shock sensor in the following order ON A SEPERATE CABLE: A BLUE to the shocks BLACK (Black is connected to the T) A BLACK to the shocks BLUE (Blue is connected to the other T) A WHITE to the shocks YELLOW (Connected to the actual SHOCK sensor) A GREEN to the shocks RED (connected to the other end of the actual SHOCK sensor (with the above Yellow) Now, on my old alarm's CP Zone 1 was a Yellow & Red Zone 2 was a White & Green Zone 8 was a Black and Blue Here is my question for the Premier 24... Are there three zones and, what are they? For the set-up of the panel are they normally open, normally closed, Double Pole, End of line or Triple End of Line? Please help! I Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
topalarms Posted April 8, 2008 Share Posted April 8, 2008 Someone quoted Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iSTORM Posted April 9, 2008 Share Posted April 9, 2008 Shocking! In all honesty you have come to the forum for the best advise from trained people. There advise has been to get an engineer in and that is exactly what you should do. When you come to install the panel in my opinion you are going to end up having no choice but to get one in, so..... why not stop now and not cause the engineer any more work and more probably important to you any more cost for having to put correct any mistakes you 'may' of made! My best advise to "a quick question". My Name is Iain iStorm Security Solutions Visit My Website Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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