Guest anguscanplay Posted August 7, 2007 Share Posted August 7, 2007 strewth and they say i lecture lol ( its good advice though ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greebo Posted August 7, 2007 Author Share Posted August 7, 2007 cool its the right choice , if they give the alarm a clean bill - ask em about induced ac then maybe youll need a sparky too ? post back if you need advice about what they say Angus ( really i am on your side lol ) no worries I needed it unlocked anyways... just thinking out loud, since the sockets also trigger an activation and they are on an RCD hopefully its not anything too dangerous Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest anguscanplay Posted August 7, 2007 Share Posted August 7, 2007 no worriesI needed it unlocked anyways... just thinking out loud, since the sockets also trigger an activation and they are on an RCD hopefully its not anything too dangerous could well be just the battery , but ............................... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greebo Posted August 9, 2007 Author Share Posted August 9, 2007 could well be just the battery , but ............................... alarm guys havent managed to come out yet (or answer my calls) but I have noticed that if I inhibit that zone the alarm is fine could it just be a dodgy sensor? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barooga Posted August 9, 2007 Share Posted August 9, 2007 And thats fine (and thanks!) but Im not convinced that its not a problem with the alarm (yet)If I isolate the alarm from the mains and then try my "test" will that tell me anything that I dont already know?The alarm will be running off the battery so it should tell me if the problem is with the supply or the alarm wires, right?the buzzer sounds (45 secs to disarm) if I let it go it will fully activate (internal and external bells sound) Suspicion of an earth loop fault here, so isolating the mains - by turning off spur/pulling fuse etc will achieve nothing. If its earth loop problem you will still have potential on the earth line. Not recommended. Saying nothing has changed is not correct. It could be something as simple as a screw just snagging the earth wire in a fitting. Over time the insulation will break down. Growing old is mandatory, growing up is optional Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greebo Posted August 9, 2007 Author Share Posted August 9, 2007 Suspicion of an earth loop fault here, so isolating the mains - by turning off spur/pulling fuse etc will achieve nothing. If its earth loop problem you will still have potential on the earth line. Not recommended. Saying nothing has changed is not correct. It could be something as simple as a screw just snagging the earth wire in a fitting. Over time the insulation will break down. would an earth loop fault only affect a single sensor though? If I isolate that one sensor the rest of the alarm is fine... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arfur mo Posted August 9, 2007 Share Posted August 9, 2007 hi all, reading through the fault report and the haze of valid idea's put forward, i wondered if the main panel is in a cupboard under the stairs or in a WC room? a not uncommon installation error is to wire the supply to the panel off and from the light switch load side, cupboard is shut = power removed so panel runs on standby battery (explained for O/P to understand), battery get's low starts to misbehave. these batteries are designed for float charge and occasional usage. if it is being discharged and recharged regularly due to incorrect connection as above, it will have a far shorter life, hence the sudden fault appearing for no apparent reason another thought is the smoothing circuitry in the panel has failed (cooker tripping alarm when part set is an indication), an engineer could easily fit a mains transient filter to stop this problem. but what ever the cause it needs a decent engineer and possibly an electrician to check out and subsequently put right, properly and safely. regs alan If you think education is difficult, try being stupid!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greebo Posted August 9, 2007 Author Share Posted August 9, 2007 hi all,reading through the fault report and the haze of valid idea's put forward, i wondered if the main panel is in a cupboard under the stairs or in a WC room? a not uncommon installation error is to wire the supply to the panel off and from the light switch load side, cupboard is shut = power removed so panel runs on standby battery (explained for O/P to understand), battery get's low starts to misbehave. these batteries are designed for float charge and occasional usage. if it is being discharged and recharged regularly due to incorrect connection as above, it will have a far shorter life, hence the sudden fault appearing for no apparent reason another thought is the smoothing circuitry in the panel has failed (cooker tripping alarm when part set is an indication), an engineer could easily fit a mains transient filter to stop this problem. but what ever the cause it needs a decent engineer and possibly an electrician to check out and subsequently put right, properly and safely. regs alan thanks for the reply. The panel is in the hotpress upstairs and has its own (fused) connection to the CU Regarding smoothing circuitry, am I wrong in thinking that if the fault was in the panel isolating one zone wouldnt make any difference, but in this case it does. Each activation was on the same zone, when I inhibit that zone the alarm behaves normally... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arfur mo Posted August 9, 2007 Share Posted August 9, 2007 thanks for the reply.The panel is in the hotpress upstairs and has its own (fused) connection to the CU Regarding smoothing circuitry, am I wrong in thinking that if the fault was in the panel isolating one zone wouldnt make any difference, but in this case it does. Each activation was on the same zone, when I inhibit that zone the alarm behaves normally... hotpress upstairs, so what is that exactelly - a sauna? tbh a bit tricky to say really without seeing the situation 1st hand, that zone may have developed a fault on the panel zone electronics (rare), cables run close to the source of the RFi. (the cooker) on that zone may make it more prone to it, so diagnosis just from the info given can be very misleading. you need an engineer to call and see as there are many tests that can be done by him/her/(should i say 'it' to be pc?) - good advice as simple as it gets. regs alan If you think education is difficult, try being stupid!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greebo Posted August 9, 2007 Author Share Posted August 9, 2007 hotpress upstairs, so what is that exactelly - a sauna? tbh a bit tricky to say really without seeing the situation 1st hand, that zone may have developed a fault on the panel zone electronics (rare), cables run close to the source of the RFi. (the cooker) on that zone may make it more prone to it, so diagnosis just from the info given can be very misleading. you need an engineer to call and see as there are many tests that can be done by him/her/(should i say 'it' to be pc?) - good advice as simple as it gets. regs alan hotpress = the press where the hot water cylinder lives...dont you guys have them? anywho, I opened the sensor that was activating (HKC) nothing was obviously out of whack but the vibration sensors were touching each other. Are they supposed to be? Or does it matter, is the detection based on them touching when they were not or not touching when they used to be? (if you get my drift) anywho, I separated them put it back together and the fault has gone. On a slightly more disturbing note, the same type sensor on a different window is failing to activate at all. this used to work but now I can do what I want (to the window) and the alarm will not activate, even on a full set. any ideas? I thought with a faulty sensor the panel would register something, at least fail to set but it just continues on happily... Also, it looks like neither of these sensors has a tamper, I could open them without an activation and also there are no wires on what I believe are the tamper pins... Is this as simple as hooking up a loop between the two pins or is there more to it than that? ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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