Eugene's DIY Den
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Posts posted by Eugene's DIY Den
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49 minutes ago, al-yeti said:
Only thing with using a wireless siren you need to hold rear tamper in or wedge it if you walking with it
The wireless keypad are very handy tho....
Sometimes I just use a mobile phone and make a call to my land line (or use a cordless phone, and leave the wired handset off hook so it picks up sound from the keypad).
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Can I do this temporarily while testing to check whether the panel is alarming properly (and the internal sounder can be heard ok)? I can't find the setting in the Engineer menu. Also can I use a wireless internal sounder as an audible device when doing a walk test and I'm out of the range of being able to hear a keypad?
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4 minutes ago, al-yeti said:
I would say common on those standard contacts
Anyway I'm adding a few PIR's to act as backup (and implementing an exercise schedule for the windows
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After over a year and a half since I posted this, several more contacts have stuck (on windows that are never opened).
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Another alternative is cheap low power radio, transmitter/receiver pairs and make up my own contraption (but that would be too much work
)
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I'll probably go for HKC's wireless internal sounder so it can be located midway in a hall between front and back of the house and be heard everywhere. There's space at the top of the SW 10 70 panel (not sure what that's for) and I could wire in a "sound bomb", but I wouldn't hear it up stairs.
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It doesn't even beep when a non-walkthrough zone is opened. It continues to say "system armed". However I do get a beep to notify me of a tamper. I just want to cater for the scenario when I'm in bed and the alarm goes off and I don't hear the external sounder or I'm at the back of the house and can't hear it at the front. I don't want an internal 120 dB type device either. When I add a GSM communicator, it'll send me a text message so I suppose that's a workaround.
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I don't have an internal sounder (I would need one for front and back of house). However I have two keypads. Can I get them to sound a tone/announce that an alarm has occurred?. They tell me about it when I unset the alarm, but don't show any info on the display and are silent when I open a zone.
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1 hour ago, james.wilson said:
are you sure the doc is wrong?
Possibly it may be referring to a Quantum panel or earlier edition of the SW 10-70 or just a generic diagram. Terminals have the same function and are in the same order as on my board, except the polarity legend is reversed for the external bell output.
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Ok, thanks guys for all the help. Hopefully the external sounder hasn't been damaged. 12 volts would have been placed on the -ve trigger by my **** up. Will check it tomorrow. Have notified HKC about their document error.
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16 minutes ago, Specialist said:
All the information needed is in the Installer manual, one thing it says is that Engineer codes should not include the number 0.
Yes, discovered that. The 0 at the start of the default code on every page of the manual must be a misprint.
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Quoted default engineer's code appears to work now since I cleared the fault by resetting the panel.
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7 minutes ago, james.wilson said:
0 is clear on this panel
On my keypad, the "play/quit" button backs out of the menu.
0 prompts for a user code. Presumably quick codes can be configured in the engineer menu if I can figure out the code to get into it. -
Ok, managed to "hack" it and fault has disappeared! Code was obvious and I won't get a job as a professional hacker!
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13 minutes ago, james.wilson said:
assuming as you say 0abcd then its not on default codes. But I only know the uk panels and they may have different defaults. I think they are printed on the pcb in the aerial area.
if the code was correct it wouldn't wait for any more digits
The default code has a 0 at the start so I'm not sure whether that's supposed to be the first digit of the code or they mean to use it as a prefix. In any case I've tried 0 + the code and 00.
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3 minutes ago, PeterJames said:
Try recycling the power
I did that. Firstly removed the fuse and then the battery connection and reversed the process on startup.
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6 minutes ago, james.wilson said:
assuming as you say 0abcd then its not on default codes. But I only know the uk panels and they may have different defaults. I think they are printed on the pcb in the aerial area.
if the code was correct it wouldn't wait for any more digits
I'm working off a downloaded manual, so that's where I got the codes. I'll try some other combinations.
Would the fault indication have been caused by the panel lid being open? (which was then latched?).
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1 minute ago, PeterJames said:
Did the default codes work before? I take it you didnt change the code? You could try recycling the power completely
No, it's a brand new panel.
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9 minutes ago, PeterJames said:
reset the alarm by entering the user code and disarming the system you will be able to access the engineer menu after that
I tried that, but it won't accept the default user code. We can't put codes here, so lets say the default code is 0ABCD. I've tried 0ABCD and 00ABCD. The keypad waits as if it wants 6 digits, so I tried 0ABCDE, but that still didn't work.
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I've just installed a new HKC SW 10-70 panel.
The keypad is giving a fault and alarm indication and beeping. I wired the power to my external bell the wrong way (printed wiring guide had + and - incorrectly reversed compared to actual PCB layout. Should have checked the connections I know, but I've only made this mistake a few times in a lifetime).Hopefully it hasn't fried the panel board/external bell. I've disconnected the bell and connected a 4k7 resistor between tamper return and SAAB hold. Anyway the panel won't accept the default engineer user code ###REMOVED### so that I can set it up/ see a log. It's giving me an "access denied".
Any ideas, at least on the password?
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The info on their website says that this only works with 2G voice SIM cards and not ones that only support 3G/4G. Are 3G/4G cards generally able to work down to 2G, or does it depend on the network?
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Generally I twist strands together, solder, fold back flat, slide heat shrink over each core and then heatshrink over the whole sheath. So the joint is fairly secure and loose connections are unlikely and it looks neat.
Is there any crimp device for joining cables that would mean less work? Something like a 6 way butt/splice or one that doesn't require insulation to be stripped (IDC)? Or is it just as handy to do it my way if I'm not going to be jointing regularly?
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Here's some photos
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Any idea what these mean on barrel shaped shock sensors? Possibly ITEC designed.
Disabling External Sounder on HKC 10 70 Panel
in !!..DIY Installers..!!
Posted · Edited by Eugene's DIY Den
So there's no setting for turning it on/off? (within the services menu).