bennynoneck

Hi. On the premier elite 48w there is an option on the control panel that allows you to select either 0.3 or 0.75a charging current. How can I change between the two? It's not a switch on the board and I can't see the option within the 40000 page manual! Also would the unit display a battery fault if I'm yet to connect the bell'sown battery? .

Yes, all answered thanks. I'll go un-switched, as no doubt the wife or someone will knock it off otherwise. As for flex, I'll guess I'll get a short length just to keep it "proper", and anything 0.75mm of greater will do. Ta.

What's a plug? I usually just put bare wires in the sockets.

So people are happy to tell me to avoid Yale at all costs but when I go for something that is more complicated I then get told not to do it, in the diy section of the forum, because I'm not a professional. I chased out all my electric cable runs in my house, laid new cable, wired everything up and then had the leccie do the consumer unit, test and sign off. All was agreed beforehand and he even said I did a better job than most people he knew as I was ultra careful (ie only drilling within specified sections of joists etc instead of one whacking great hole wherever was easiest). I didn't need to have a degree to lay cable in conduit and understand everything electrical beforehand as when u boil it all down its not that difficult. I can wire in a spur and a fcu etc I was just asking what cable u guys use from the fcu to the control panel, that's all. And was asking in the diy forum! i still maintain that my three questions were valid but never mind.

And would u use that???

. I dont see them as worrying questions. You have to find out somehow and someone must have told you at one time! There are no stupid questions, otherwise some people are going to guess and guess wrong. As for cable theres no harm in over-rating but there is in under rating. I guess 1mm flex would be suitable. Ill maybe get a metre specifically for it. I presume you can use alarm cable to the keypad.

Hi, Can I just ask a couple of quick questions please? Obviously you use 2.5mm T&E cable to the FCU which feeds the alarm control panel, but: What cable comes from the FCU to the control panel? If it's going to be plain old 1mm T&E can I use 1.5mm without any probs (I have a load of this!)? Should a 1.5amp or 3amp fuse be used in the FCU? Should the FCU be unswitched? Many thanks in advance.

Ta!

Hi. Sorry I thought you meant the sw corners, if u meant facing south facing then yes that might be the way forward thanks. So are there any rules about rads and windows when I come to place them upstairs?

Hi. The three PIRs are the standard ones I'm afraid. SW corners will be looking toward the windows. I like your idea of above the windows. I was thinking of having one to the right of the window in the alcove. That would cover pretty much everything, including someone coming in from the kitchen, window, or patio doors. I would have one in the extension on the right, but then it would look straight at a rad. I assume people don't put PIRs anywhere but in corners? Look a bit naff sitting in the middle of a room?! Many thanks.

Hi, No doubt this has been asked just a few times before, but I’m wondering – on a generic level – where to put PIRs. I’ve read up a little and people say avoid facing windows, avoid drafts, avoid above radiators, avoid facing radiators, etc. That seems to discount almost all options in my eyes. Imagine a square room with a window on one side and a radiator on any of the other three sides. Two corners will have the window in sight, and all four corners are either going to be facing the radiator or be “above” it almost. Or is all this rubbish nowadays. Does it matter if a PIR is on the same wall as a radiator but is 1+ metre to the side of it (and obviously 1-2 metres above it)? The attached picture is a lovely little rendering of the ground floor of my house It’s south-facing and has a horrible open-plan layout with rads on most walls and a ground floor extension where the patio doors are. The one window is from wall to wall almost. The sun pours in during the summer. The red patches are radiators. Where would you place the PIRs by looking purely at this? I have three at my disposal. I thought of maybe having to have two trigger to set the alarm off if the PIRs will be compromised by the layout? There will be a contact on the front door. I know I should have contacts at the back but I've yet to save up for these (it's wireless texecomm premier elite richocet). I'm going wired upstairs but wireless downstairs. Thanks in advance, and please bear with me!

I know this probably depends on how many times it goes off, but on average how long do you think a X/W Odyssey from Texecomm would last on a set of batteries? Thanks.

Fan-bloody-tastic!!!! So the 2 tamper wires are now out of the window! The 4 zone wires are obvious. That just leaves the 2x power wires. I'll wire these in parallel at the PIR terminals to join the PIRs together, and at the control panel I'll just the join the two red togther and the two black together in the control panel terminals. So nothing is in series. I only need to join the zone 2 cables to the next stretch of cable to get to the second PIR. For this i'll use a terminal strip. I guess 3amp is more than fine, considering the whole unit is fused by 3 amps! Many thanks. Yes i saw the dot as meaning it not being supported. But i only glanced.

Thanks. I can see the crossed wires now (so to speak). I thought I read somewhere that the control panel I'm getting didn't support FSL. If it does, then I'll have to research it all a bit more (sigh!), although in fairness it does sound a more easy set up (assuming that I just use the Texecom PIRs with the built in resistors). How can I tell if the panel does support EOL / FSL? I was looking at the following and on the second page I read it as EOL wiring not being a function: http://www.texe.com/uk/uploads/PremierElite_48-W_LIT.pdf I can just use 6 core cable as well then!

Whats's FSI? Come on, give me a clue! thanks, but what about the tamper and power pairs? Thanks.

Ta for the reply. 1. I don't think the panel supports FSL. Would what I say be correct, and if so, 2. Okay, will drop two cables down and join in the sensor. Thanks. Would the following be correct then? a. Obviously wires 1 and 2 go to the zone for PIR and terminate there. b. Wires 3 and 4 "bypass" the first PIR and head straight for the second PIR. c. Wires 5 and 6 for tamper. Would wire 5 go into PIR 1 and then also come out and into PIR 2 where it would terminate? Wire 6 bypass PIR 1 and go straight to PIR2? Therefore wired in series? d. Wires 7 and 8 for power. Wired in parallel? God it's a mess. Someone take pity on me!

Hi, I’m ordering all my gear tonight (based around Texecom Richocet Elite 48-W) and will be utilising the hard-wired zones for upstairs. The more I read up about it all, I can see the obvious benefits of wired over wireless, but alas my situation calls for both. Therefore, I’m going to have 3 or 4 wired PIRs upstairs, in bedrooms and in the hallway. I hope in the future I can expand to more wired zones on that unit… As I’m getting 8 core cable, I’ll run two cables up from the control panel and wire up 2 PIRs on each, CCL style. I have some questions please: 1. As I’ll have these two cables to wire up at the control panel, when it comes to the tamper circuit, can I use a terminal strip, wire them in series on it (ie for instance, black of one cable to red of the other), and then connect up to the board? Is this a decent way of doing it (especially if you had a lot of cables)? If so, what rating terminal strips should I be looking at, and do I just let it hang there inside the unit? 2. Related to the above, do I just shove multiple cables into the power circuit terminals, or bunch them up in a terminal box first (all the same colours connecting together)? Same difference really I guess with two wires but what do you guys do with loads of wires? 3. On both of these two runs of cable, when I get to the first PIR, there’s obviously a bit of work to be done here to be able to continue along to the next PIR. Would you do all the connections in the loft, and drop one cable down to the PIR (kind of like you do on a lighting circuit where a light only has one set of terminals)? If so, do you use a special junction box or something? 4. In this junction box, my brain is telling me to wire everything up in parallel! The tamper will be wired in series at the control panel so it’s dealt with there. That’s my reasoning anyway. Does this sound right or have I just blown up my equipment?! 5. Not having the cable yet, I’m assuming it’s single strand. I was planning on twisting together and clamping into the terminals. Do you guys tend to do something else? 6. What size cable clips will I need? I probably have this wrong, but it’s worth a laugh to post it! Many thanks in advance for your continued support. It’s much appreciated.

I have a Hitachi SDS which should be up to the job. I'll probably end up going through the bloody roof knowing me!

Can u tell me how I should do it in case I do get one in the future please? Ta.

Texecom premier elite 48w, sorry! I assume it has an internal speaker for bleeps etc. I haven't got it yet!

Thanks. Know someone with 18 inch drill bit so should be enough!!

. The soffits hang over about about 2 courses already so that's going to be a long hole to drill. But it's gotta be done so all or the advice.

Thanks. Any advice on angle or anything? Go with the angle of the roof or steeper? ts a mid 60's build - is it just going to be brick?? 10mm for 8core? I feel I trip into the loft tomorrow! Thanks again.

How long of a drill bit am I going to need and what size? I was hoping to avoid it as that's probably going to be a long drill bit depending on the angle!!!