bennynoneck

Hi all. I've got a risco gt600 which was installed about 5 years ago by the previous owner by someone who works in an alarm company as a private on the side job. It had one hardwired pir in the garage where the control panel is and the rest wireless pirs in the house with a unit in the loft for the wireless pirs to connect to. Oh and a hardwired rkp in the house also! I've always had a few issues with it. Every so often one of the sensors would false alarm (mainly the same one), then recently I got a 'o!' fault which I got rid of by changing the pir batteries (although I couldn't find out what that fault code meant the battery had the date of Sept 15 written on them), then yesterday the final straw came when the system set off with a bell box wire fault which although unarmed set the inside AND outside siren off. We reset it and it cleared. In my old house I installed, thanks to the help from this forum, a texecom ricochet system with comm WiFi which was great and never false alarmed and gave me remote monitoring capability. It seemed so much more up to date compared to the risco alarm which always looked cheap. What I am thinking of is to do the same in the new house. But I just wanted to check as I remember someone saying that it's all changed now and I couldn't get the app or something without being a registered installer. Is that right or would I be good to go? I read this forum a fair bit and know the onus always seems to be to suggest that one should always go with a registered installer but would appreciate some genuine advise please, considering this is in the DIY section of the forum. Many thanks in advance and I appreciate all the help given to me over the years especially in those dark days setting up the WiFi unit which was the hardest thing I've ever done!!!!!!

Cheers all for all replies. Just trying to make my existing alarm as good for me as I can. It's not the one I'd want but better than nothing. regards. Andrew

That sounds very interesting and explains a few things!!! Many thanks. Should I leave the other PIR options alone though whilst sorting the Leds out?

Hi Sorry to dredge this back up but I now have all the necessary codes and have checked the entire set up with regards to how the part arming is configured etc. I do have a question though as although I can get the instruction manual for the unit is can't seem to find anything on the wireless pirs...... They are all set to flash theit lights when they are set off but I can only seem to get them to light up every few minutes and they seem quite tempeamental(risco T92). Inside they have options for mode and pulse but I can't see anything online about these options (pulse 1 2 3, mode full norm fast). Can I adjust the sensitivity? Thanks!

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Many thanks all. Perhaps I'll just stick with this one and tweak it and be happy with it. Regards.

Well I got the master code! That allows me to authorise an engineer..... Can you get a newer control panel I could swap that lets you use an app i wonder?

I'm trying....

Hi. I think it was ##REMOVED## and the master was ##REMOVED##. Neither work. No idea re loft. When I get up there again soon I'll take a pic! There's only about 4 PIRs though in the house, so would that need an expander? Yes the rkp is fine, it's just my camera!

Hi all. A couple of years ago several of you here kindly guided me along and helped me with several aspects of installing an alarm at my old house. It was a Texecom Ricochet with a comm wifi unit. It was great and never had a false alarm, although configuring the wifi part was a real un-intuitive bugger. Well, last week I moved into my new house. I didn't get much in the way of documentation for anything as it had been empty for a couple of years / was probate. However, I did get a user guide for the alarm, which is entitled RISCO "GT 600 601 control panel" and seems to have been installed in 2015. There is a t-tag thing by the front door, a large main box in the garage (I guess this is called the "control panel"), a clearly wired PIR in the garage, what seems to be wireless PIRs dotted around the house, a door contact (wired or wireless I'm not sure), an external siren box, and possibly an internal siren (I opened it up thinking it was a air freshener!! It didn't set the alarm off though!). There's also a blinking box in the loft, I guess which is somehow serving the external siren box but I'm unsure what this is, unless it's a battery pack or something?? In the garage by the main box is a telephone socket. There's also a really old siren box at the back of the house, whether this is defunct or not I don't know. When I present the keyfob to the tag box, it presents me with three options: set alarm, remove zones, test alarm. I don't have any codes for the alarm, just the fobs. I don't even know if they are all for the same user or not (it doesn't welcome me like the texecom). What I've love to know is more about the alarm please, and how I can start to configure it myself, like I did with the texecom. I like to know everything about things and be in control, but at the present I seem to be severely limited! I guess I need a master code or be able to reset it. In the instructions it said the master code was ##REMOVED## but this doesn't work unsurprisingly. Is it wireless and wired? Is it any good? Many thanks in advance.

Monitor hardware and ats faults was set to off already.......... If I disable push notifications I believe that's going to screw up my app. How can I silence these service faults? Shall just turn off the service tones on the keypad?

Hi, Polling was set to 015, if that's what you meant, JamesWilson?? I'll check to see whether it's changed somehow later. I'm wondering whether it had anything to do with logging on remotely via the app? I didn't go off any more when I got home, and like I say didn't go off when I turned the router off (D-Link, given by TalkTalk a couple of years ago). Are firmware updates free? Can I do it through wifi via Wintex? I assume it won't wipe everything I've spent so long configuring?! How would I go about turning off push notifications? Sorry to keep asking questions. I assume this would mean I wouldn't be notified if the alarm went off? It never notified me of the Com1 fault, both times. Can I just make it not issue a system alert (or make the system alert silent??)? I do remember reading something about this, but the thought of reading those instructions again make we want to weep! all. Oh, one last question - with the app, when I go into arming, it doesn't list out the 3 part-arm options. It just says "house", which is the name of the area I use. I guess I could use the keypad, but just wondering if it should show them on here? Ta all.

I'd love to know! I turned the router off for 10 mins but that didn't make it fail. All done via the keypad.

Hi, Update - I can connect to the panel from my app remotely now, which is brilliant and many thanks! This morning I couldn't connect "locally" anymore via the app(!), but we'll see later tonight if that's resolved itself. However, my wife now tells me that the system has bleeped at points throughout the day. I've logged on and it's due to a "Com 1 fault" system alert. I figure that means it's dropping connection, correct? If so, would someone be so kind as to tell me how to turn this alert off? If it drops connection overnight, it's going to really annoy me. I assume it wouldn't bleep indefinitely? but still, it would be annoying. Many thanks (again!).

Hold on just got a message on my phone!!!!!!! I am at home so will now go to work and see what happens... Thanks so much!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks very much! I have changed arc 1 protocol to sia level 2, changed config1 to send sia text, and config2 to use comport 1. It now says ip connecting and ip sending....then resetting then com300 is idle. Damn! I thought we had it then! Any ideas?? What should happen next? Should I get an email? I haven't put any mobile number in.

Thanks for replies. It's interesting what you say about not requiring DDNS, and the arguments sound valid. I was just going on what the manual said on the installation CD, which I put below in italic. Maybe they are out of date? It must be set up wrong because of this test call failure despite the app working locally. Thanks for the offer of helping but i don't want to take up your time too much. Is there anything you could suggest that might be a problem that i could look into further? What should be the IP address in the app? At the moment it's the static IP address given to it via the router (192.168.1.9). UDL/digi options / Setup modules / Setup IP data: CommIP address - the same what's in the app, as above. ComIP port - 10001 Com IP gateway - the local router IP address (the one you type in the browser to access the router) ComIP netmask - as assigned by the comwifi UDL/digi options / program digi I picked ARC1 and made it Contact ID. Just guessed these, no idea what it means! primary tel: 54.88.92.200/10001 second tel: 52.28.12.230/10001 account - the 6 digit one given to me by texecom and what's in the app. dial attempts - 2 Areas - A (i only use one area) Reporting options (Connect via IP = ON) Global options / system timers / poll every = 015 Digi options = Digi is enabled as is Dial all numbers Comport setup / com port 1 = COM IP module Does this help any?? Thanks in advance........ Remote Connections (WAN) Before attempting to connect to the system from a remote location, please read the section on Port Forwarding, this will need to be done to allow access from outside of the LAN. Fixed IP address (Uncommon) If you have a fixed IP address internet connection, complete all of the details above, BUT replace the Host Address with the Fixed IP address provided by the Internet Service Provider. Dynamic IP Address (most common) It is most likely that you have a Dynamic IP address assigned by the service provider. This basically allows the Local system to connect to the outside world (Internet WAN), and can change frequently. Because of the nature of Dynamic addresses you will need a third party service to manage the IP address to ensure you can always connect to the system. You should search for a Dynamic DNS service provider, who may or may not charge a fee for the service. Once you have the service the Host Address will be replaced by the details given to you by the DDNS provider.

Thanks for replies. It's intersting what you say about not re

Many thanks for your responses. It is indeed a v3 panel. I need to use a dynamic DNS so will do that first and see if it clears up the issue. The only nagging doubt is that I thought the test call would have gone a bit further than just saying the com unit is resetting or idle. I have gone through the instructions numerous times and have done everything they’ve said (well, maybe not!), so if the dynamic IP doesn’t help I would appreciate a bit more help if that’s okay, as otherwise it’ll be another hour in front of the bleeding keypad checking over the instructions!? I guess I’ll write out all the options picked on the panel and post them. I’ve set up port forwarding on my router, I’ve enabled push notifications with Texecom (I have my account number), I’ve set up the router and the comwifi to work together, I’ve set up the app, everything. I’ll keep you posted. I really want to make this work! Thanks again, much appreciated.

Hi, I've managed to set it up in so far as I can access the alarm through the iphone app whilst in the house. However, I'm stuck when trying to do a test call from the keypad. It just sits there saying things like "com300 idle", "resetting", etc. I've configured port forwarding, push notifications, etc, and have checked everything many times. However... The small instruction pamphlet that came with the ComWifi doesn't say anything about having to use a dynaminc DNS service, but I've just noticed that the main instructions that come with the panel does have a little section on it. My ISP, talktalk, uses dynaminc IP adresses. Is this going to be the reason I can't send a test call (even when I'm in the house???)? Any help would be appreciated. Agh!!!!!

for the reply. I thought I tried all the settings, I must admit. There's a fair few of them. I'll tinker around a bit more and then email Texecom if I can't sort it. Regards,

Hi, I have all my system up and running now, and it's great, but I have a couple of nagging issues which are annoying me now because I can't seem to sort them out... 1) I've played around with all sorts of volume controls and speaker options in a bid to quieten the thing down, but it doesn't seem to do what I want. It's just too loud in general. For instance, I have a PIR set to guard access by the keypad on part-arm, and so the countdown to disarm starts when we go downstairs and activate the PIR. All fine but the noise generated by it is just so jarring, especially with a sleeping young child upstairs. I've tried changing the volume of the keypad volume but it or any other volume doesn't seem to change things. I've tried taking the entry and exit tones off, but it still sounds. I think i got the volume down on the control panel, but it's not enough. I just want a nice, quiet reminder that it needs to be unarmed. It's bad enough to have to have to manually silent-arm at night (and it still chirps at the end of that!!). 2) I have set it up to chirp when the front door is opened when in an unarmed state. Am I right in thinking that the only options are for it to bleep/chirp 1/2/3 times? I would expect maybe something reoccuring/longer (although I probably couldn't bear the standard chirps much longer than that anyway, which moves us on to point 3....) 3) I've changed the tone to a cheep (which made it better than the default), but are they really the only chimes available? They are horrible! 4) Part-arm. The manual doesn't really go into any detail about part-arming in relation to the fact that it has three variations of it. How do you configure these (or even better, delete 2 and 3 so I don't have to pick one every time I part arm)? Many thanks!!!!!

Just to let you know, the option isn't there because the largest battery that the 48 can take is a 7a and the .3a charging selection is appropriate for it. Hence no option to pick the higher charging option. Thanks to all again.

That's great thanks. I tend to worry about certain things and not being able to switch between the two options had me thinking the battery might blow up - well maybe not that bad! Will turn it on when I get a spare couple of hours and see about all the faults. I think most of them were tampers on zones I'm not using so one I get to cancel those zones I should be in a better position. I must admit there's a fair few options on the 48w!

Thanks for the reply. It's a grade 2 sounder. The keypad just says battery error along with a few more. Didn't have time last night so just turned it off straight away and disconnected the battery. I wonder if it shows a battery fault if the battery is not charged? How do I use the jumper? It looks just like three dots on the board! Excuse my ignorance. I got the wrong one and got a 3.4a battery. I only have one wired pir and a sounder so am going to keep with it.