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BLWTechServices

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Everything posted by BLWTechServices

  1. After defaulting the panel, the wiring type will be programmed as double EOL, so any zone that has been looped out with wire, or wired as normaLly closed, which the door contact probably is, will be seen as a tamper. The zone wiring type needs to be programmed as normally closed to conduct the test you have configured.
  2. You're very welcome, glad to help ?
  3. Here's a link to the driver you need: https://www.ftdichip.com/Drivers/VCP.htm The best option is to select the "Setup Executable" version from the comments column.
  4. Hi Ives, Your problem of the alarm sounding when the power is removed is caused by a defective backup battery within the panel and the sounder on the wall then activates using it's own built in battery due to the loss of power to it from the panel so opening the panel and disconecting the backup battery will not stop the sounder activating when mains power is removed. Ideally you need to replace the backup battery and the sounder will then remain silent when the mains power is off. If you can't / don't want to replace the panel backup battery, then it will mean a trip up a ladder to the external sounder and disconnecting it's own internal battery or the sounder component itself to keep it silent when the power is off. The first option of replacing the panel battery would be much better in the long term. Brian
  5. The 48w should have a Battery charge current selection jumper on the PCB, just to the left of the flash programming port and below the battery fuse F2. There shouldn't be any sounder battery faults shown on the panel for no sounder battery connection for a grade 2 sounder but grade 3 sounders do signal a battery fault to the panel - assuming it's wired correctly!
  6. The times quoted by Texecom are 4 years with the comfort LED's off or 2 years with them on. How that compares with reality will remain to be seen...
  7. Yes, the setup is straight forward enough, probably easier than the com2400 actually. The only cost is the purchase of the Com-IP or WiFi module. Then it's simply a matter of creating an account on the Texecom server using the app on the smart phone and you should be good to go, no on-going charges or subs. Brian
  8. For a Premier Elite, rather than using the com2400, I'd recommend using either the Com-IP or Com-WiFi module and configure it to send push messages to a smart phone from Texecom's own server. With the app installed on a phone, you also get remote control / virtual keypad capabilty as well as alarm / event notifications, all at no cost. Brian
  9. Hi Bruce, Are you using Wintex to program the panel? If so, in the Communications Options make sure the Enable Communicator box is ticked on the Options Tab. On the ARC's tab, Enter your mobile number in the Primary Telephone number box and select SMS Messaging in the Protocol drop down options. On the same tab, select which areas you want text's to be received for and select the events you want to receive text's for in the Reporting Options. On the Radio Pad and Com Port options tab, enter the phone number of your Mobile providers's SMS service centre in SMS Call Centre 1 or use the Open Tap service, who's number is 07045607101. The cost of using Open Tap is 50p a txt but it tends to be much more reliable than the mobile operator's own service centres. Still on the same tab, make sure Com2400 Module is selected for the Onboard Digi Com option. Hope that helps a bit! Brian
  10. Don't know if this is any good? http://www.a-traq.com/download.htm By the look of it, it's quite old and may be "abandonware" by now. It uses serial ports rather than IP / GSM so it maybe ideal for dialup modem use. The trial version can have upto 100 accounts setup.
  11. Hi Paul, With the Veritas, yes, you can silence the tamper alarm after opening the panel by entering a user code. Change the battery, close the panel again, press reset and and all should be good. The only complication maybe if the panel is programmed for engineer reset after a tamper, in which case after closing the lid, enter the engineer code, then press reset and it should be job done )
  12. There are various ricochet kit options so make sure you get the one closest to your requirements. From memory, the kits only contain one smartkey so you may need to purchase another for the second user and some kits come with proximity tags rather than smartkeys and also an com2400 digi modem which may well be surplus to your requirements. The sounder choice depends on ease of wiring as the panel obviously supports wired sounders but a wireless one is an option if needbe which will take up one zone on the wireless setup. The PIR's are a good choice, but Dual Tech versions are available if needbe.
  13. If the plan is to replace the existing system completely, my recomendation would be a Texecom Ricochet system. Using the Elite 12W panel with Smartkey control fobs, it will meet all your requirements, including the IP / GSM connectivity, although they do add a bit to the cost. You may find cheaper systems like Pyronix Enforcer, but Enforcer is not as pleasing on the eye or as user friendly in my opinion.
  14. Hi, Although possibly not the cheapest on the market, Texecom Ricochet is my wireless system of choice. The systems I have installed have proved to be reliable and robust and a DT wireless detector is available. Initial setup can be a little tricky for a first time installer, but the end result is well worth it. Pyronix Enforcer is another option - cheaper, but in my opinion not a pleasing to the eye and I'm not keen on the enforcer programming / setup methods.
  15. No doubt they'll know what you're talking about, but if you're using a PAYG sim, they're unlikely to activate the data number, and if they do, are likely to charge you big bucks for it... Ideally you Need a fixed IP data only sim card in the ComGSM.
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