antinode

I would never take chipboard up, it never goes back down properly. You can get most of the cables under it with some careful planning/drilling (watch for pipes). Either that or next to the gripper as above. Most would go wireless these days.

Yes, the keypads will work fine. The board is the same size too, IIRC.

The 9651 can't be expanded. You'll have to change the board to a 9751, which can be expanded to 24 zones.

As above, sounds like the output isn't programmed correctly. Needs to be set to engineer access.

Unless I'm mistaken, I think the OP may be talking about the old redcare reset style ie hard wired from communicator to panel. The Texecom panels have a dedicated remote reset terminal adjacent to the digicom outputs which would be wired through the aux relay on the dualcom/emizon. Not sure on the Galaxy, perhaps there's a zone type for it.

FSL uses resistors instead of closed loops to signal back to the control panel. This means you can signal alarm, tamper, fault and anti mask over a single pair of wires per detector (powered devices still need a pair for power of course). EG use red and black for power on both sensors, use blue and yellow for the FSL loop on the first detector and join the green and white through to the second detector.

Those things are a ball ache since they changed the wiring to fly leads. What a stupid idea that was!

Nobody ever had to mount the magnet vertically as there's not enough clearance? (ie door step on inside of shutter etc)

IDIS/ID biscuit type splitter that could fit inside a PIR. Never come across one in the field and would imagine it'd probably be a bit of a mare trying to change a detector with one stuffed inside it. AFAIK you can't double up zones depending on resistance values ALA Risco, but they did have odd values (8K2 and 3K9 in parallel if I recall) and zones could be wired 2, 3 or 4 wire. Then you had those awful Stella and Comet PIRs with the built in splitter. 2 PIRs on 3 cores with full alarm and tamper. Also remember pinching the brown or orange off an existing REM aux power feed for the single wire return on a new REM a couple of times to save re-cabling all the way back to the panel (anybody who's worked on them will remember each expander has 3 common wires, with a single wire return depending on the number of the REM)

At a guess (not a big Texecom user personally) your bell box has tried to do a battery test and tripped the fault output (due to battery not connected) which you appear to have connected to the global tamper terminals on the control panel? AFAIK, the Aux/Fault loop defaults to a tamper circuit, hence the reason for the full alarm condition. Faults shouldn't cause the alarm to go into full alarm. If you want the bell to be monitored for faults, wait until you've connected the bell box battery, connect the fault terminals to a spare zone, program the zone as fault or suchlike, and you'll avoid the full alarm condition if it goes into fault in future.

The brackets themselves are sturdy enough, it's the fixings you need to watch with the weight. If you can bolt them through the ply with some long M6 bolts and double nut them so they don't come loose, they won't be going anywhere.

For cable storage, I bought a couple of storage hooks off ebay, I think they're normally used for hanging ladders on. The ones I got fit two rolls of 8 core on snugly. I just screwed them to the ply on the side and they do the job nicely. Similar to these: http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/350916259328

Output 1002 is a programmable relay with NO and NC changeover contacts, outputs 1001, 1003-1004 and 1011-1014 are transistorised outputs (they switch polarity in alarm) You can program any of the outputs to do anything you want them to in the output programming menu. There's a 12v supply for the bell inbetween the 2 sets of output terminals (Aux 3) I'd say the bell wiring is the easy part if you're used to Gardtec programming, so be prepared for some head scratching! May be better off setting it up on a bench and getting used to the programming first as it's not similar to the Gardtec by any means. Good luck!

Not too clear on the photo, and I'm not familiar with the equipment, but it looks like you need to put a wire link between terminals 4 and 6 in the bell box.

I would say the solution depends on the risk assesment. On paper, this looks like a job for a properly monitored CCTV installation, ie through to an RVRC for an appropriate response and false alarm filtering. The problem with having the system notifying the customer via email is that if you do go down the PIR route, they almost certainly will false alarm at least once or twice a night even if set up correctly and in quiet and "controlled" environments. Cats and foxes plus inclement weather and stuff blowing around the yard will all cause false activations and your customer will soon get fed up of being woken at 3am because there's a carrier bag blowing around the yard. The other issue is that email is not a particularly reliable method of communication. I certainly wouldn't rely on it in a situation like this as you could end up with egg on your face if it fails to notify. Beams will certainly cut down the false alarm aspect but they're more labour intensive to install unless you go wireless. I would certainly be looking at offsite monitoring with audio challenge and beam detection if the site is as open as you say, but thats just my opinion. I'm sure others will add their 2p!

I think you're looking for the Visonic Clip-4N, which is a miniature curtain PIR. It's about 3" tall and an inch or so wide. Should do the job, but they are fiddly to install!

The way I read it was the OP just wants to isolate the dialler, not the smokes?

There are a number of isolate-able relays on the market, but most of them are made for 24v fire alarm systems. You could quite easily make your own using a momentary keyswitch, timer relay, reset button and buzzer but if you're not into electronics, you may be better off doing as SWB says and placing the dialler into some kind of hold off mode, although this has it's problems (forgetting to put it back online)

That is a shame, especially over christmas. We used to do quite a bit of subbing to the company that does all the CCTV and security for them and I suspect this might hurt them a bit, too.

Speaking of old alarm *****... http://youtu.be/z5qzR1JFLJY?list=UUfzi-ulUu8pg1avo3doFiMA

May need an engineer reset. I know the 9651 requires an eng reset on certain conditions of which a bell tamper may be one.

As breff. Optex make some flush units that are much less obtrusive than the regular type (AX-100sr) Also, not a problem over-lapping a quad and a dual tech or two dual techs, it's two PIRs you can't over-lap.

We have a site using it and given the size of the place, it works OK as long as it's looked after. What do you need to know? There's not really much to it TBH. Aerial, mast head receiver, LGRU16 and that stupid 40 pin ribbon cable for the tamper/alarm outs. Site codes and unit code DIP switches to program the address up, but they do need to be logged on to the LGRU16 before they'll work.

We normally use the MPH30/T from QED, which is about the smallest tannoy speaker I've seen. Have a look on their site, it might be quite a bit smaller than the ones you've installed. Does the house have a decent sized soffit? If so, how about sourcing some soffit mounted speakers? Might be a pain cutting them in if they're wood, but you'd hardly notice them. Failing that, perhaps mounting the speaker in the eaves as close to the soffit as possible, drilling some vent holes then covering them with an extractor fan grille. If you whack the volume up a bit more to compensate, this might work. If you go for either of those options, make sure they're OK with them being cut out first of course. And don't forget, depending on when the place was built, the soffits could be made from asbestos cement or AIB, so be careful.

As per sixwheeledbeast, this receiver has a "global" tamper circuit for all enrolled devices. Looking at the instructions, it's relay 5 that should open when you trigger the tamper on the detector and close when the tamper is clear. This needs to go in series with the global tamper loop in the panel, or to a spare zone programmed as 24 hour.