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Help With Door Contact And Pa Wiring


lesliez

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I'm installing an alarm for the first time. My kit is an Accenta Gen with LCD RKP, 4 Texecom 3D Quad PIRs, a CQR 550 door contact, a CQR PA button and a Texecom Odyssey 5 sounder. I have finished running the cables and wired the everything apart from the door contact and PA button. The door contact has 6 connections. Can anyone confirm if I just need to connect for wires from the 6 core cable to each connector either side of the reed switch and connect these cables to zone 1 one the panel? Also is it the same for the PA button - connect 2 wires to the connections either side of the reed switch and connect these at the panel? Do I need to conect any other cables to the door contact and PA button?

Thanks

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I'm installing an alarm for the first time. My kit is an Accenta Gen with LCD RKP, 4 Texecom 3D Quad PIRs, a CQR 550 door contact, a CQR PA button and a Texecom Odyssey 5 sounder. I have finished running the cables and wired the everything apart from the door contact and PA button. The door contact has 6 connections. Can anyone confirm if I just need to connect for wires from the 6 core cable to each connector either side of the reed switch and connect these cables to zone 1 one the panel? Also is it the same for the PA button - connect 2 wires to the connections either side of the reed switch and connect these at the panel? Do I need to conect any other cables to the door contact and PA button?

Thanks

First decide what colours you will be using for the alarm circuit and the tamper circuit repectively, let's pretend that you are using red/yellow for alarm and blue/black for tamper.

Connect red and yellow to each end of the reed switch then twist blue/black together and connect these to one of the spare terminals.

Leave the green/white disconnected but don't cut them off, you may need them one day.

Back at the control panle the red/yellows will connect to your alarm zones and the blue/black will be connected in series with all the other tampers from your PIRs etc before finally being connected to the tamper zone on the panel.

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Thanks for your reply.

I guess you now know I'm somewhat of a novice - I've run miles of cable in my time, but not done too much on the connecting side.

This term "connected in series" bothers me. This is my understanding-

Using the following colour code for example: red = +13V, black = 0V, blue = alarm feed, white = alarm return, green = tamper (left connector) and yellow = tamper (right connector).

I have 4 PIRs, blue and white wires from each PIR go to each respective zones (zones 2 to 5), red and black wires from each PIR go to the +13V and 0V. That leaves green and yellow wires from each PIR for Tamper. I thought these get connected the same way meaning 4 green wires go into the left Tamp connector on the panel and 4 yellow wires go into the right tamp connector on the panel.

Or does in series mean something else?

For the Door Contact the instruction manual just shows 2 wires from the door contact going to zone 1, so this would be the blue and white wires. In your first reply you said to twist the wires for the tamper (green and yellow in this example) and connect to a spare terminal. Where exactly should the green and yellow wires e connected on the panel (I didn't think the door contact had anti tamper).

Finally, for the PA button, the instructions only show 2 wires (blue and white in this example I assume) going to the zone marked PA on the panel. Is this all I need or do I need to twist and connect the green and yellow wires and connect these to a spare contact in which case, where should these wires be connected on the panel?

Your help and advise is greatly appreciated.

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"In Series" means that the Tamper Circuit is in one continuous loop (for all tampers - PIR's, contacts etc) in its simplistic form...so if the cable is broken/cut, the Tamper Circuit will break and set off the alarm. For the door contact, all you are doing by joining the tamper wires together and screwing them into a single contact, is to maintain this loop.

From the sounds of it, at the panel, you are wiring the tampers in parallel, which will not work as if one tamper circuit is broken, it will be bridged by the others, and the panel will not see it.

This assumption is based on the panel you are using only having a generic tamper circuit i.e it will not identify individual tampers

Hope this helps...

James...

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Thanks James.

I had a feeling in series meant one continuous loop, but I didn't know how I could achieve this without running a cable from one PIR to another. Then the penny dropped and the obvious answer is to use a chockie block to join the tamper wires inside the panel, thereby resulting in one continuous loop.

For your info my panel (Accenta G4 8SP419A) only has one tamper circuit.

A couple more small points - the door contact I have is a CQR SC550, it has one reed switch and also what looks like a small anti tamper looking contact. So I presume I need to add the tamper wires from the door contact to the continuous loop from the PIR?

As for the panic alarm, I understand that I just need 2 wires, because this is a loop in it's own right and if broken will set the whole alarm off.

Thanks for your help. I never realised these forums would be so useful (even for complete novices like me!)

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No Problem - As for the tamper circuit connection on the door contact, this maybe switched i.e if you remove the cover of the contact it breaks a connection, so you would wire the two tamper wires into their respective connections on the door contact tamper connectors - this is fairly rare on normal door contacts, and therefore maybe just a bridged set of contacts.

For the PIR, this will definately have a switched tamper (i.e activated on removing the cover) so you would connect each of the two tamper wires to their corresponding connector on the pir - then add these to the loop at the panel end

As for chocci-blocks I would steer well clear of these - I would hope that the panel would have spare connectors that would enable you to combine wires into one loop, but if not then use a terminal block and then insulate.

If the PA switch only has two connectors, its still wise to bridge the two wires for the tamper in the cable run, as this would protect against the cable being cut, and also provide a unique identifier at the panel as to a PA activation or tamper

James...

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Thanks James

I think things are getting clearer. Attached is a picture of my panel. I can't see any spare connectors to combine the tamper wires into one loop, so do you agree that I need to use a terminal block (I thought these were called chocki blocks!). I guess I need to form the loop and each end of the loop (one green and one yellow wire) get connected into the Tamp connection once I have removed the wire link.

Also attached is a picture of the PA button. It has 5 connectors and I guess the alarm feed and return are connected to the connectors either side of the reed switch. Once I have twisted the two tamper wires together does it matter which of the 3 remaining connectors I use?

Since you are looking (hopefully) at the pictures, the instructions say to connect the wires from the remote key pad to the connectors on the left side of the panel whic I plan to do now. I presume this is all ok.

Many thanks for your help.

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Sorry, for some reason when you mention chocci blocks I had scotch blocks in my head...

Not sure if the pictures you mentioned attached ok as I cannot see anything, but from your decription, you are on the right lines regarding tamper at the panel end. As for the PA, I would need to see a pic to be sure, but you are basically using a spare connector as a terminal block connector - but be careful that you use ones that are not common to the reed switch in the PA.

As for the RKB I would need to see a pic to answer that one - are you using screened cable for the run from the panel to the RKB ?

Hmm Google doesn't give me much info on the pinouts for the PA so need to see the pic to be sure..

James...

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Tamper on the PA - any of the screw terminals on the left will suffice (both tamper wires twisted together then attached to the screw terminal)

RKB wiring to the left side of the panel - pic is a little small to make out the decals on the circuit board, but follow the manual on this...

James..

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