Jump to content
Security Installer Community

Bad-Yeti

Member
  • Posts

    11
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

Bad-Yeti's Achievements

Rookie

Rookie (2/14)

  • Collaborator Rare
  • First Post Rare
  • Conversation Starter Rare

Recent Badges

0

Reputation

  1. Got it all sorted. Looks like all the advice I got from the supplier was wrong. That the Siren and Strobe are negative switches against the 12v not positive against the common, it damaged the I/O board.
  2. Okay, when I tested the siren the output from the I/o is only 2.38 volts for this sound up and 1.85 for the stroke that's with both fuses replaced
  3. Ok I've discovered the problem there was a short and it had taken out one of the fuses after all is there any way to arm the system as I don't have any fuses and can't get any more until tomorrow. Is it possible to on the system with that fault? I note your comment Mr happy and you don't need to worry I shouldn't be doing any more alarms to be honest with you I didn't even want to do this one in the first place lol.
  4. If as has been suggested, I disconnect the battery and do a I guess hard restart will it lose all its settings?
  5. No, the Master Blaster is powered by a separate 240v feed the siren out is just the relay switch for the blaster. Hail be to the Yeti's
  6. Aye I guess. So are Pyronix alarms not exactly great? What are a good make?
  7. Aye, you're not wrong there, i'm appalled by their tech support guy who tells me something different every time, almost like he's just guessing.
  8. Thank you for the information, yes the fuses are glass and are fine. I will try the hard reset. I have been going through the manual though and i'm starting the think that the supplier gave me the wrong information. The siren and strobe are fine, however the supplier told me to take a wire from siren and from Com to the siren unit to activate it. Looking around would I be correct that this is wrong and that the siren should have a relay with a 12v+ and a negative and the siren out of the I/O is the switch?
  9. You're not wrong there. I'm not sure what you mean about the I/O being unmonitored, could you elaborate please? One thing that struck me as odd was that everything was great until I added that sensor, then no other I/O things work, but if I disconnect the sensor they ( siren and strobe) still don't work, I thought that i'd overstressed something and blown a fuse but they are fine.
  10. Ive just thought should I be wiring it as follows: Masterblaster siren Bell + 12v+ Strobe strobe + 12v+ switch Z34 + com Like I said when I had strobe + com and bell + com it worked
  11. As a favour to one of my customers (as i'm not an alarm installer but an IT Ubiquiti engineer) I installed a Pyronix Enforcer for him. It was simple enough, 2 door sensors Wireless, 4 roller shutter Wireless, a Master blaster siren on the bell output wired to bell and com, a flasher unit wired to strobe and com. Everything worked great. Yesterday I added a wired door sensor with a 25 meter cable run, wired it up to Z34 and com, it worked fine. However the sirens and strobe stopped outputting. During tests even the standard wireless outdoor siren won't sound. Any ideas please, i'm at the end of my tether with this. Thank you
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.